I personally did a head swap on a 4.6L Mustang....basically the same engine type as the 5.4L. The dip stick tube just pulls out.....sounds like yours is being stuborn.
About the head change....just an FYI: the head bolts are torque to yield bolts, sounds like you're using new head bolts (a must!). Take the time to really clean the sealing surface between the cylinder heads and engine. Also, ensure you torque the head bolts in the correct sequence (per haynes manual). Follow the steps in tightening each head bolt. 30ft-lb, additional 90 degrees, another additional 90 degrees. If you under or over torque the head bolts you'll be doing this job again in the near future.
Take your time. I hope all goes well.
Do the timing chains look good? They are supposed to be able to go 300k before needing to be replaced. But while your in there....its good insurance to just replace them.

 

Have your Ford Tech friend help you get that tube out. He should know a trick or two. Maybe an easy out would help.

 

My question for you... What year is your 4.6L? The new 4.6L is a 3-valve configuration and they have the same problems that everyone else is having with the 5.4L 24v engines. This goes for Mustangs through F350s. If it is Prior to 2005 they have a problem with plugs blowing out due to they are only held in place by 3-4 threads. Just an FYI. Thanks for the suggestions and such and it is taken lightly. At this point though I am about ready to put the TNT tool to some use.

 

Just curious? How long did you let the penetrating oil sit before trying to remove the spark plugs?
I just replaced my trucks plugs at 41,000miles. The plugs "sqreeched" all the way out, but luckly none broke off. I loosed each plug ~ 1/8th turn and then let the penetrating oil sit for ~ 1 hour.
The plugs themselves looked great. But there was some carbon build up on the grounding electrode.
Rotunda sells a tool "Rotunda Special Service Tool 303-1203" to remove the ground electrode portion of the spark plug should it break off in the cylinder head. I bought one "just in case" when I did my plug replacement.

 

I tried using a Easy Out with no success, I've tried applying Heat to the block, applying plenty of penitrating fluid, screwing a bolt into the tube and using a Slide Hammer, next is a punch and a dremmal in the attempt to deform the tube to allow penitrating oil to soak inbetween the block and tube. I really don't want to remove the oil pan, due to having to remove the cross brace and front axle in order to drop the pan. Any other ideas??

 

Only the 4.6 in the Mustang is a 3 valve motor. All F150 have 2 valve 4.6 :P

 

Ford is still putting the older 2V heads on the 4.6L V8's going into the F-150's. The 2V heads don't have this issue with the spark plugs. The very very long grounding electrode and carbon build up is the reason the 3V headed engines are so much "fun" to change spark plugs on.

 

I would try to deform the nub you've got left for a dip stick tube before removing the pan. Even if you remove the pan you won't have much to work with. There is just ~ 1/2 inch sticking through into the oil pan side anyway.
If worst case you can't remove the dip stick....and you have to remove the pan, you may be able to just loosen the motor mounts and jack up the engine just enough to remove the oil pan....that would really suck to have to do that for a dip stick tube though. Can you use some needle nose pliers and deform the nub enough to pull it out?

 

Stupid Question... everyone seems to be changing plugs at different times... 41k, 75k, 110k, etc. Is this out of necessity or are you doing this as part of good ol' tune-up?



'04 F-150 4x4 3.73LS 2V 4.6L 33k miles

 

Believe it or not, I let the plugs soak for 6 hours from the time I turned the truck off. Turned then 1/8th CW and then 1/8th CCW, then applied more AeroKroil and let them soak another 2-3 hours. I let them soak while performing other maintance projects (rotating tires, Brake Job, Lube, etc) I figured the longer they soak the better. The tool may of worked but it requires you to remove all the porcilan out of the Ground Sheild in order to be able to screw the extractor into it. The question is... How do you remove the porcilan with out the possiblility of gettting any into the cylinder? I have seen what it can do to a cylinder wall and if caught in a valve. It is not by any means pretty. Unfortunatly my Mechanic friend even said that the extractor may not of worked on these, they were in the head so tight they had to be removed with a Punch and a hammer, it was a sight. After the project is done I am going to post the pics of the whole project including the pieces of the plug that were left in the head. Thanks for the input about the heads. The chains looked good but I am going to replace them. Now I have a spare set. I have swapped heads on many of Chevy 350's (used to race them) but these are a sight. I have a Torq Degree Dial that I have used for years that has a full 360 degree scale and I plan on using it on these. The sealing surface on the heads is like looking into a mirror right now, just have to fully clean rinse before I reinstall them. I still have to prep the block though. I am doing the whole project without pulling the engine.

 

Pretty much they are doing for security reasons... Yes, Ford say that you do not have to do a TUNE-UP for 100K miles but good luck if you wait that long. I suggest at least pulling the plugs every 20K miles and inspecting them, cleaning them, adding Nickle Anti Sieze to them and then reinserting them. You don't have to change them but at least clean them and relube them. If you wait any longer you are just asking for the problems that everyone else is having with them. Granted at $10 to $20 per plug it would be a bit much to have to replace them every 20K miles or so. Just search the forums about spark plugs issues with the 5.4L 3-valve and see for yourself.

 

The nub for the tube is flush with the Block hole. I figured I would attempt to use a small punch or thin screwdriver to deform the tube enough to be able to get a pair of needle nose pliers in and pull it out. From looking down the tube it looks like it is a tapered fit but it just may be a discolored ring in the tube. Let's hope that it is just a O-ring. I am definatly puting Nickle Anti sieze on the new tube!!!

 

Good call! You don't have to pull the engine to do this as you know.
Good luck. Do post pics when you get a chance. Sorry your plug change turned into a such a project.
Take your time, do it right the first time and you'll be back on the road in no time.

 

GRNMSTR,

Hold on buddy, the tube is BOLTED TO THE HEADS!

There is a small bolt that is just above the exhaust manifold that holds the oil dipstick tube in place. The Trans dipstick is the same, but only uses a huge 19mm bolt (don't ask me why).

I did an engine removal on my 04 SCREW 5.4 3V and while it was a big job, it was doable if you take your time and have a Factory Service Manual.

I can take a photo of the bolt, if you need and post it in my gallery tonight, as I have the original engine out of the truck and it is complete intact.

Let me know if you decide to pull the engine, as I may be able to pass along some wisdom from the school of scraped hands.



Doug

 

I'm pretty sure if you read back, he already has the bolt out and the tube is broken off flush where it enters the block.