Guys ,the orange crap has been known to have cheap anti drain back valves in them.
the drain back keeps the oil in the upper valve train area on the positive side of the oil pump circuit thus preventing wear at start up.

this was a big cause for what people thought was piston slap,but it was really valve train noise.Though i'm not saying that piston slap wasn't a problem.which we know it was.

sorry got off topic .
But i buy MC by the case from my parts guy $3. 00 /filter.
Rich

 

Twice while traveling and in need of an oil change on my E350 SD/V10 I have been forced to use a Fram Oil Filter. Both times I have experienced low engine knock on start up when cold. Each time the filters were the Wal*Mart version by Fram. I don't know how much different they are from the Frams that are sold in the box and I never will know. I now carry a couple of Motorcraft 820s just for such emergency.. I know it was not the oil, its bottled and is the one called for by Ford.. One thing I did notice, the owners manual actually says that if a low quality non approved filter is used this symptom will occur... Happy Motoring

 

Any suggestions? Also, I beleive that the PH2 and PH8 use the same threads but the 8 is larger. If the PH2 is supposed to work, can I use the 8 instead?[/QUOTE]

All arguments aside, I too would like to know if the PH8 could be used. I feel the filters are small. I also understand it's the filter media that counts and drain back feature. So, I would find the Wix equivalence to the PH8.

 

A ph2 and ph8 are exactly the same as far as the threads and oil path. The ph8 is about twice as long as the ph2. If it will fit as far as space is concerned you can use it. I could not on a 4.6l f150 4x4, it was too long. I have since went to using MC filters or NAPA gold and my startup noise has gone away.

 

I would rather use a sweat sock filled with steel wool for an oil filter than use a Fram. I am sure it would do a better job and have less drain-back. Stay with the Motorcraft. It is the best oil filter you can buy for any Ford. That is the only oil filter I will use.

 

i had a bad ph8 on my 460...when i checked the oil level one day it looked like metallic paint in the sun

 

I have to agree with most responses here in regards to using the Motorcraft filter. However, if I could not acquire a MC I would use either a Purolator or the Napa Gold.

 

After being trashed on this forum for my spelling and oil knowledge, I am hesitant to add anything. But here goes,go to "ask" or Google and type in oil filter testing and look for the minimopar thread by the knizefamily.net/oil filter study.

 

if that link is the one i think it is i think it is very out of date...even a year or two companies could have changed many suppliers and/or manufacturers

 

`hey i bought a 1999 F350 Lariot SCab 4x4 with the V10, auto, manual transfer case.
srw, sb 3.73 trac loc & 250k.
it cost 5k, but at that price it has problems, anyway i have a fram tough guard oil filter with castrol 10w30 synthetic oil.
should i ditch this combo for something else?
has anyone used the E3 plugs or the bosch +4 plugs?
or should i stick with the motorcraft.
-
thanx this site is outstanding!!!!

 

You can get an MC quality filter at Walmart for a very low price as all of the above posters have said. In Canada, you can only get the MC at a Ford stealer but my dear old Dad spends his winters in Yuma and brings me back both the MC filters and the good old USA MC semi-synthetic 5-20. In Canada the MC 5-20 is a different oil , not near as good IMHO. I even use the US MC 5-20 in my 02 Accord and it runs better than before and now uses no oil between changes just like my V10.

 

sounds like you had a bigger problem than the filter.

 

WIX 51372 OR NAPA GOLD
MC FL-820S or Purolator, stay away from the orange filter

 

Stay with the Motorcraft plugs and boots. I bought 10 Motorcraft Plugs and boots for $190 for my dads 03' with over 60,000 cause it would miss a little when it was cold. New plugs and boots fixed the problem for him.

For a 1999 V10 5W-30 oil is what the engine calls for. I would use the 5W-30 and a Fl-820S filter instead of the 10w-30. I never liked Fram filters and I don't use them. May want to try some high mileage oil, may help condition the seals. At least thats what they advertised.

 

hey, i am just wondering what is the problem with fram filters?

i am not a professional mechanic - but i have been rebuilding & working on all my ford motors (289 to 428cj) since 1979.

with the FE motors i found that castrol was the only oil that didnt leave any residue in the lifter valley on a freshly built motor.
i lived in florida at the time & liked to change intakes from single carb to dual carbs & even a tri pack on my 69 merc 428cj cyclone along with my 69
390gt cougar.

but i never had a problem with fram filters and i especially like the tough guard for cold starts.

now i have to admit i dont know to much about the new ford motors, especially with all the electronics.

thats why im here.
i would like to stick with castrol, i will have to get the proper 5w30 as the owners manual calls for, or should i use the 5w20?

i was also thinking about putting in some RESTORE oil additive because of the 250k or is that a problem with the mod motors?

oil pressure is at 3/4 of top of gauge & temp is below half way on gauge, so to me that is great for 250k.
its almost the same as the NOS 4L V6 i put in my 94 explorer last year.

as with any used vehicle i get - i will be changing all the fluids, brakes, filters, belts, hoses & water pump.

thanx