Want other views on oil change periods.
#1
Want other views on oil change periods.
I am a stickler for changing my oil often and at 3000 miles. My truck is a 2006 STX with the 4.6 V8. This probably is covered somewhere in the forum, but I would like the latest opinions on this.
Even when I used fully synthetic oil on previous vehicles the oil would be somewhat dirty on the stick and I would change it no later than 4000 miles. However, with this truck I was taking a trip with it so I changed it at 2400 miles for the first change. I changed it with the motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend and a Fram tough guard filter. At 3000 miles the oil on the stick looked like I just changed it! I have a total of 6000 miles on the truck now, and was going to change it but I thought I would get some scoop from people who have gotten more miles on their trucks.
I always thought in the past that the factory extended the oil change interval so that the engine would wear out sooner and they would sell more vehicles. For those who remember the vehicles from the 70's, and bought them new, you probably know what I mean. At 50,000 miles a lot of engines would be blowing blue smoke.
Is the 5000 mile interval recomended in the manual really O.K, and if it is is it because the oil is much better than what I have used in the past?
I appreciate any input. I will make my decision after evaluating all responses.
Thanks!
Even when I used fully synthetic oil on previous vehicles the oil would be somewhat dirty on the stick and I would change it no later than 4000 miles. However, with this truck I was taking a trip with it so I changed it at 2400 miles for the first change. I changed it with the motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend and a Fram tough guard filter. At 3000 miles the oil on the stick looked like I just changed it! I have a total of 6000 miles on the truck now, and was going to change it but I thought I would get some scoop from people who have gotten more miles on their trucks.
I always thought in the past that the factory extended the oil change interval so that the engine would wear out sooner and they would sell more vehicles. For those who remember the vehicles from the 70's, and bought them new, you probably know what I mean. At 50,000 miles a lot of engines would be blowing blue smoke.
Is the 5000 mile interval recomended in the manual really O.K, and if it is is it because the oil is much better than what I have used in the past?
I appreciate any input. I will make my decision after evaluating all responses.
Thanks!
Last edited by double0955; 01-23-2007 at 04:34 PM.
#3
I'm going 5-6K will mobil 1. If it were not synthetic I would change sooner. I put synthetic in my higher end Audi's & BMW's and they go 5-6k between as well. I think the 3k rule is rather old school thinking. Believe it or not most german car companies say 10k oil change intervals with synthetic (I cut that in half myself). It also depends on your driving, if you have a lot of short trips, or drive in really dirty conditions I would change sooner.
No problems here, the oil always looks clean coming out.
No problems here, the oil always looks clean coming out.
#5
My theory has been that the oil is good for a lot longer than 3000-5000 or even 7500 miles and I pretty much believe all the evidence that says there is no reason to change oil at 3K. I guess it makes me "feel" good to get the dirt out at 3000-4000 miles. If I didn't change the oil that often, I'd have to find some other way to take care of my truck. Washing and waxing takes too damn long, so I change the oil. By the way, I agree with everyone else, throw those Frams in the dumpster.
#7
Sorry to derail, but why does every one dislike Fram filters? I like the filter with the rough surface because it is easier to change. I had a 96 F150 4.9L I6. When I change the oil pan gasket around 145K my mechanic brother inlaw was amazed at how good the pan looked. I changed the oil about every 4K miles and used syn blend oil. I sold that truck with 165K in 04 and bought another F150. I still change the oil around every 4000k and use motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend but usually get the FRAM. If the general concenus is that they are junk I will switch at the next interval. I have also used fram in my wife's 1997 Taurus with 150k. Same filter as the 5.4, go figure.
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#9
You have to search the forums for the link to this oil research site that was done a few years back, comparing all types of oil filters. Fram scored one of the lowest scores and was made very poorly internally. I lost faith in them a few years back when the gaskets never seemed to seal properly on my wife's honda, always leaking a few weeks after I changed the oil (I've been doing my own vehicle work for 20 years). I then started using Mobil1 or K&N filters, then went to Mann for my Volvo and A/C Delco for her honda's (scored very high). Now I use only Motorcraft filters on this truck, with the Motorcraft oil. I don't see the need to continue using Mobil1 in this thing, as I have with all my other vehicles, if it's not needed.
#10
#11
synthetic oil and possibly the blends do not loose their vicosity like conventional oil. oil born contaminants however can wreak havoc on a motor in the long term. change every 5k - 7k depending on driving conditions (towing, dusty, ect) and if it makes you feel better spin on a new filter halfway between changes (to remove contaminates) and top off the pan. just my $.02
p.s. ditch the fram, junk!
p.s. ditch the fram, junk!
Last edited by jkhobson; 01-23-2007 at 08:29 PM.
#12
To add a little more to ReForder's comments. The anti drain back valve and internal construction on fram filters is of a poor design and inferior in build materials than almost every other manfacturer. The FL-400 S by Motorcraft is a good filter according to the studies I have read and has a silicone valve vs. the nitride (sp) used by Fram. To simplify fram=bean counter design, other filters=engineered to filter and prevent drain back. Stick to a good oil and change it when the manual states for your usage. Good luck
#13
The (Ford ) factory has spent a lot of money on oil filter research. The factory does not want to warrenty a destroyed engine so they can save money on OEM filters. Use Motorcraft filters. I got some OEM filters shipped to me, by a sponsor on this site for less than I would pay for a cheap discount store off brand filter. In one day. Two days before Christmas. Oil does not wear out by 3K, but it does get contaminated by combustion by products, this applies to synthetics, also. Oil is cheap compared to an engine. Plan on 3K oil changs, and no big deal if for some reason it gets stretched out a little. Plan on 5K oil changes, and if it gets stretched, that starts getting a little to long. 3K oil changes, you probably do not need to add oil between changes, 5K you probably do. Keep checking the level as often as the manual told you to. ( my lawyer told me to say that last line)
Last edited by DanielC; 01-23-2007 at 09:15 PM. Reason: additions
#14
I strictly use Mobil 1 in the newer vehicles (and high performance), and Motorcraft 10w30 Syn Blend in the older stuff and motorcycles and only Wix filters. There isn't an application out there that Wix doesn't make a filter for. I trust the quality, and when you run as hard as I do, you better have the best. As far as the manufacturer recommendations, 5-6K is ideal, but for example, I've got a 1981 Honda CX500 motorcycle, with 17490 miles on it. Its first oil change is scheduled for 18000 miles. I still change it once a year.
Fram filters contain cardboard end caps rather than rubber seals (like Wix, Baldwin, etc.), phony thin metal springs instead of tough coil springs to keep the media sealed against the end cap, and nitrile drainback valves that harden with age rather than silicone ones that don't harden and seal better by remaining more pliable. http://www.wixfilters.com/ Plus you can score a great deal from Fleet Filter, one of FTE's sponsors!
Fram filters contain cardboard end caps rather than rubber seals (like Wix, Baldwin, etc.), phony thin metal springs instead of tough coil springs to keep the media sealed against the end cap, and nitrile drainback valves that harden with age rather than silicone ones that don't harden and seal better by remaining more pliable. http://www.wixfilters.com/ Plus you can score a great deal from Fleet Filter, one of FTE's sponsors!
Last edited by Matts72; 01-23-2007 at 10:03 PM.
#15
I can't remember where, but I seem to remember reading that cold starts are especially hard on oil when the molecules are coiled up and getting crushed to bits. It seems logical that oil that has 5K miles on it with 100 cold starts is going to be in a lot better condition than oil with 5K miles and 1000 cold starts. That is probably where the old "x" number of miles OR 3 months change interval gets at least some of its basis.
If you like Fram, try cutting one open some time and see for yourself. Not good.
I vote for Purolator's PureOne filters. They rank up there with the Wix, Bosch, and other high quality filters, but I can usually get them for under $5 at Advance Auto during their semi-regular sales.
If you like Fram, try cutting one open some time and see for yourself. Not good.
I vote for Purolator's PureOne filters. They rank up there with the Wix, Bosch, and other high quality filters, but I can usually get them for under $5 at Advance Auto during their semi-regular sales.