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I just got my triple gauge kit and completed the cab mount, boost sender, and transmission sender. The only thing I have left to do is the Pyro. According to the kit instructions I have two options:
Drill and tap the exhaust manifold on the driver's side and screw in the probe or...
drill into the exhaust pipe and clamp on the probe.
A couple of things make me nervous. First: Is it easy to screw up the threads into the manifold? The last thing I want to do is take a chance on ruining my exaust manifold. Second: Since both of these options are before the turbo isn't there a chance of metal filings getting into the turbo? The directions don't address this issue at all but it seems like an obvious problem to me. I wouldn't consider installing it after the turbo because I think the readings would be inaccurate. Is my thinking anywhere near correct on this? Once again thanks in advance.
Hey, your anxiety is well understood; I was right where you are now a few months ago. Here's some tips I received from here that I'm happy to pass n to you:
1. Do the manifold tap (pre-turbo). Ensure you have the right size tap because you're right, you get one chance. Take your time, make the tap straight and perpendicular to the ground (I think Black Cloud Diesel has some really good installation pix you can use). I didn't use a tap wrench, I had to use a 1/2 ratchet and socket because I started my tap at an angle (yes, I was sweating). If you go slowly and back out from time to time you'll be fine.
2. For the cuttings inside the manifold you can either A) use your dry-vac to suck out all the shavings or B) use a wand that has a strong magnet on the end or do like I did - both.
3. Don't forget the threadlock specific to hot surfaces, the manifold gets toasty.
I just installed my triple-guage pillar 2 months ago. I installed my pyro sender post-turbo. I talked with buddies and they did the same. This is easier and if you would ever reach temps high enough to shatter the sender, it will not blow thru you turbo. A guy from banks recommended this too. Have had no problems.
Bob
2002 f-350 cc
I just installed my triple-guage pillar 2 months ago. I installed my pyro sender post-turbo. I talked with buddies and they did the same. This is easier and if you would ever reach temps high enough to shatter the sender, it will not blow thru you turbo. A guy from banks recommended this too. Have had no problems.
Bob
2002 f-350 cc
Bob,
Did they say anything about the difference in readings between pre and post turbo? I've read here a few times that post turbo readings are inaccurate. This is my first install so I don't really know how true that is. Thanks.
Post Turbo Readings are Accurate..... You're Just Dealing With A Different Temperature Range. A Lower Temp Range And The Temp Range Is Lower Because Of Where You're Reading It From. However The Pre Turbo Readings Are More True To What The Temp Really Is Closer To The Engine.
Anyway... A Post Turbo Reading Can Be Just As Usefull To You If You Know What Temp Range Your Working With My .02 Cents
I think I remember them saying it reads just a little low. Not over 75 degrees.
Actually, the difference in pre an post turbo tends to be more like 300 degrees, which is very important. If you go post turbo, don't let those temps go over 1000. I have a post turbo, but will be switching to a pre turbo in the next couple of weeks. I prefer to have the readings that are actually coming directly out of the cylinders.
I just got my triple gauge kit and completed the cab mount, boost sender, and transmission sender. The only thing I have left to do is the Pyro. According to the kit instructions I have two options:
Drill and tap the exhaust manifold on the driver's side and screw in the probe or...
drill into the exhaust pipe and clamp on the probe.
A couple of things make me nervous. First: Is it easy to screw up the threads into the manifold? The last thing I want to do is take a chance on ruining my exaust manifold. Second: Since both of these options are before the turbo isn't there a chance of metal filings getting into the turbo? The directions don't address this issue at all but it seems like an obvious problem to me. I wouldn't consider installing it after the turbo because I think the readings would be inaccurate. Is my thinking anywhere near correct on this? Once again thanks in advance.
I will be doing my gauges install this week and have been reading up on it too. One thing that has not been said on this thread is to use a smaller drill bit the first time and work up to the size you need.
I will be doing my gauges install this week and have been reading up on it too. One thing that has not been said on this thread is to use a smaller drill bit the first time and work up to the size you need.
Handy bit of info that is...Wear eye protection too, you will be looking up when you drill the manifold. I think we all were a little apprehensive when it came time to drill that hole. OBTW, make sure you get the right size tap. Good Luck
As a complete newbie to (larger) trucks, but not to turbocharged engines, how well does the 7.3's turbo cope with the passage of expiring EGT probe debris ?
In the DSM world we typically place the probe after the turbo and adust temperature expectations accordingly. Exposed tip sensors tend to burn up regularly and when placed before the turbo will often take out the exhaust turbine on their way through.
As a complete newbie to (larger) trucks, but not to turbocharged engines, how well does the 7.3's turbo cope with the passage of expiring EGT probe debris ?
In the DSM world we typically place the probe after the turbo and adust temperature expectations accordingly. Exposed tip sensors tend to burn up regularly and when placed before the turbo will often take out the exhaust turbine on their way through.
Charles
It sure wouldn't do the turbo any good, however I nor most here have ever heard of a failed probe. One more thing, don't forget to use some anti-seize on the threads when you install the probe.
i just put my pyro in yesterday. We drilled a 1/4" hole in the pipe coming off the drivers side manifold. I prefered this as to the drill and tap method. I had everything to drill and tap, but for me, the foot long exhaust pipe was much less expensive to replace if something happend to it in the future. It was very easy, I used a new, brad pointed 1/4" bit, and drilled very slow, keeping the shavings in my face. From there, I used a small, fine round file and opened the hole just enough to get the probe in. Sucked any residual shaving out with a vac and proceded to run the wires. The worst part was removing the front driveshaft. That to an additional 20 minutes or so, total.
I placed my boost gauge below the inst cluster, in the dash board, between the elect shift control panel and the steering wheel, and the pyro in the blank panel where the 4x4 switch would be (I have manual 4wd). After driving it, I am going to reverse the gauges, the panel mount under the cluster is MUCH easier to watch when driving, I think even easier than a pod mount. Besides, everybody has pod mounts, I wanted something difrent.
I did my pyro install 2 weeks ago by drilling and tapping the manifold. Don't be afraid to work your way through a drill bit index, as I did. Better safe than sorry. By the time I got to the size R drill bit, I could not fit my cordless between my manifold and front drive line. Five minutes later, with drive line removed, drilled and tapped. As said before, clean the hole and back the tap out often. Good Luck!
if you do tap the hole, make sure you back the tap often, even every half turn, back up a half turn or more. You want to make sure you break off the millings when you back out the tap.. Nothing is worse than breaking off a tap in the hole, at least with damaged threads you can go larger.