Power Door Locks FIXED!!!!
#753
#754
This worked on my 2005 F 350 Crew Cab. Thanks a ton for the info!!
The toughest part for me was/is the linkage. I have the inside door handle working ( never unhooked it ) and the electric lock working. The linkage to the outside handle and the manual lock are not hooked back up yet, it got too dark. I don't anticipate that being too tough. Working on it when its 27 degrees in the morning will suck but better than paying the dealership.
It cost me a bit more than the initial 1 CENT because one of the three torx heads stripped on me.
The toughest part for me was/is the linkage. I have the inside door handle working ( never unhooked it ) and the electric lock working. The linkage to the outside handle and the manual lock are not hooked back up yet, it got too dark. I don't anticipate that being too tough. Working on it when its 27 degrees in the morning will suck but better than paying the dealership.
It cost me a bit more than the initial 1 CENT because one of the three torx heads stripped on me.
#755
#756
#758
How do you open the door panel on a 2000 excursion to get at the door lock actuator?
gtadim@can.rogers.com
gtadim@can.rogers.com
Chuck
#759
Instrument Cluster and Dome light do not work unless power door lock is pressed
Few days ago my instrument cluster, power windows, and dome light stopped working. Did some troubleshooting, and found that everything works as it should, if I press and hold the power door lock to the unlock position. When I press the unlock button on the door there is clicking in Relay 1 of the fuse panel.
Can anyone please advise me as to what to do about this issue. Can not afford a trip to the dealership.
Can anyone please advise me as to what to do about this issue. Can not afford a trip to the dealership.
#760
I did this fix today to 2 of my actuators. Worked awesome. i used the copper wire method. first one i took all the way apart and the second one i left the rivets intact and zip tied the other end. put together and boom! worked! i did buy a new one for passenger side cause i didnt have faith in myself that it would go back together. Awesome fix. Thanks to everyone that left posts and updates
#762
2000 F250 Crew Cab - Been living with mine for years like this. Now that I am selling it I find this fix,,,,,,,,,,,,, arggggg.
Anyway, thanks to all the contribed and es[ecially the orginal dude that first tackeled this and figured it out.
I will tell all that this is not for the faint of heart. You need to be fairly mechanically inclined.
Here is a nice video on you tube that someone posted from reading this thread that pretty much show this from a to z.
Ford F250 Power Door Lock Actuator removal and repair - YouTube
Anyway, thanks to all the contribed and es[ecially the orginal dude that first tackeled this and figured it out.
I will tell all that this is not for the faint of heart. You need to be fairly mechanically inclined.
Here is a nice video on you tube that someone posted from reading this thread that pretty much show this from a to z.
Ford F250 Power Door Lock Actuator removal and repair - YouTube
#763
Few days ago my instrument cluster, power windows, and dome light stopped working. Did some troubleshooting, and found that everything works as it should, if I press and hold the power door lock to the unlock position. When I press the unlock button on the door there is clicking in Relay 1 of the fuse panel.
Can anyone please advise me as to what to do about this issue. Can not afford a trip to the dealership.
Can anyone please advise me as to what to do about this issue. Can not afford a trip to the dealership.
start a new thread with your problem. when you add it to an older thread many will miss it.
#764
I just want to say THANK YOU for this thread. It just saved me $75 with a simple piece of aluminum foil. My passenger door lock was no longer responding to electric button or key remote, I'd been putting off dealing with it for about a year till it completely quit and was really irritating, we took the actuator out, took the motor apart (that was annoyingly difficult) and wrapped the resistor in foil. Reinstalled and VOILA. Oh, I ziptied the actuator back together because I only opened one end, not the whole thing.
The actuator was harder to put in than take out, I was glad I had two people and the other one was much more patient than me. But it is all reassembled and working. I don't know how long it will last, but at least it bought me some time.
The actuator was harder to put in than take out, I was glad I had two people and the other one was much more patient than me. But it is all reassembled and working. I don't know how long it will last, but at least it bought me some time.
#765
Additional info on rear lift gate lock on Excursions
I've done this procedure on all 4 doors on my Excursion. The first lock was the hardest due to the learning curve of remembering what pieces go where. The remaining three door actuators went very quickly.
My rear lift gate was also not working. After taking it apart, I realized that I not only had a "tired" actuator that I was able to fix using the same procedure as the doors, I also had a worn out central metal linkage unit that the actuator attaches to. I was unable to lock the lift gate with either the actuator or even the key due to this worn out linkage.
To add insult to injury, I broke the actuator plastic mounting tab, requiring me to purchase a new actuator along with the linkage unit.
So I went to Ford and asked for the new central linkage unit and a new actuator. They explained that they only sold the rear lift gate lock and latch assembly in its entirety. This meant I had to purchase the central linkage unit with an installed actuator and also the two cable-attached side lift gate latch units.
I wasn't real crazy about having to remove the old latch units from my lift gate since they were functioning fine, so I removed the cable attachments from the new central linkage unit, left the old latches and cables in place and hooked up the old with the new.
The new actuator is a bit different from the old one. It's a bit smaller in size and is held together by metal rivets instead of the plastic ones.
The problem I ran into was after I got everything mated and installed. The new actuator did not have enough of a throw to adequately lock and unlock the lift gate. Additionally, this lack of throw also prevented me from manually locking and unlocking the lift gate with a key - the limited movement of the actuator was preventing this.
I am not sure whether this problem is a result of me using the old side latches with the new actuator and central linkage assembly, but I could not get the thing to work - I was back to square one.
So I removed the new actuator from the new central linkage unit and now rely on using a key manually for the lift gate - and this works fine. When I have the time, I may change out the old side latches with the new unused ones - and reinstall the new actuator to see if this causes everything to link up right and work properly.
It sure is nice to have those other four door locks working perfectly again.
My rear lift gate was also not working. After taking it apart, I realized that I not only had a "tired" actuator that I was able to fix using the same procedure as the doors, I also had a worn out central metal linkage unit that the actuator attaches to. I was unable to lock the lift gate with either the actuator or even the key due to this worn out linkage.
To add insult to injury, I broke the actuator plastic mounting tab, requiring me to purchase a new actuator along with the linkage unit.
So I went to Ford and asked for the new central linkage unit and a new actuator. They explained that they only sold the rear lift gate lock and latch assembly in its entirety. This meant I had to purchase the central linkage unit with an installed actuator and also the two cable-attached side lift gate latch units.
I wasn't real crazy about having to remove the old latch units from my lift gate since they were functioning fine, so I removed the cable attachments from the new central linkage unit, left the old latches and cables in place and hooked up the old with the new.
The new actuator is a bit different from the old one. It's a bit smaller in size and is held together by metal rivets instead of the plastic ones.
The problem I ran into was after I got everything mated and installed. The new actuator did not have enough of a throw to adequately lock and unlock the lift gate. Additionally, this lack of throw also prevented me from manually locking and unlocking the lift gate with a key - the limited movement of the actuator was preventing this.
I am not sure whether this problem is a result of me using the old side latches with the new actuator and central linkage assembly, but I could not get the thing to work - I was back to square one.
So I removed the new actuator from the new central linkage unit and now rely on using a key manually for the lift gate - and this works fine. When I have the time, I may change out the old side latches with the new unused ones - and reinstall the new actuator to see if this causes everything to link up right and work properly.
It sure is nice to have those other four door locks working perfectly again.