I haven't yet pulled the dash from my '86 F250, mostly because I didn't manage to remove the ***** from the headlight switch (tried to find the button on the switch like my '77, but couldn't and it's tight in there for my hand) and the wiper switch. From the front, it looks like there's some space to either side of the instrument cluster. What's behind there? Is it practical to install some switches and indicator lights for driving lights, fog lights, rear floods, etc.?

 

The headlight switch, and wiper **** should remove exactly like on your 77. One difference is that the button you push to remove the **** and shaft are inverted. On the 77 you reach in from the top of the switch on your 86, it should be from the bottom.

Also you will have to remove the steering column plastic cover from the column. One little screw. That and the three screws that hold the instrument cluster bezel n to should give you access.

I looked at the dash in your gallery. Since your truck doesnt have air conditioning there isn't anything to the sides of the instrument cluster. That's where the air conditioning ducts would have gone.

That is one clean truck you have there. And that instrument cluster bezel is rare. Woodgrain without air, is rare.

As a suggestion, I would get a bracket for switches and lights and mount it to the bottom of the dash and save that woodgrain bezel. Just my opinion.

Also of note. Your truck should already be wired up for Fog lights. There should be a plug behind your instrument cluster. And there are wires up toward the firewall on the left side of the truck. A yellow wire about 12 guage, is one. You would need to find a truck with fog lamps however to get the wiring harness extentions, switches, and relays, to plug into these plugs however. Just throwing out ideas.

Hope this helps.

 

Well, that's cool! I wouldn't have guessed they'd have fog light wiring in the stock harness in 1986. Today, fog lights (that aren't really fog lights, but are mounted low, often inside an air dam) are quite common and I'd expect a factory circuit.

I have plenty of relays, fuse holders and wire. I usually use a center-off double throw switch, and set up for "ON-OFF-AUTO," where "AUTO" means the fog lights come on with low beams, driving lights with high beams.

I'll keep that in mind about the dash. If it's relatively uncommon and in good shape, maybe I shouldn't be making holes in it. The truth is, it's hard for me to think of a 1986 as "collectible." To me, even 40 and 50 year old trucks are to be used. But it makes sense to keep one clean and easy to return to stock condition of one decides to sell.

I'll feel around on the bottom of the headlight switch for that little button. And I'll take another look at that wiper ****. At first glance, it appeared to perhaps have a TINY hole for a setscrew.

Thanks.

 

I just looked at the rectangular recess on the lower right of my panel, about opposite the headlight and wiper switches. Maybe a rig with more options had extra controls there; I don't know what it is. It looks to me like a guy could stick a small panel in there with double back tape, and it would be easy to return to stock if desired. If a person used a couple of light sub-mini toggles and small LED indicators, good double back adhesive should hold it OK. One small hole in the very back of the recess would be sufficient for a few small wires. It would be unobtrusive and fairly easy to plug if the panel had to go away in the future.

I'll take to heart the suggestion not to go drilling or holesawing into my wood grain panel and messing up its looks.

 

That recess is the loose change/object bin, not sure what it's called exactly.

 

I use that bin for my cassette tapes. On trucks with diesel engines, they have a extra light panel there.

Also on the 1980 to 1999 F-600 or better, the hole is left blank for other switches and things such as the maxi brake controler etc...

In the picture you can see the yellow maxi brake control in that position, on this 1998 F-800.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=95977&.jpg

You could also put a toggle switch in the hole provided for the Fog light switch under the instrument cluster bezel, just to the right of the windshield wiper ****. But you would have to cut a hole etc..

Hope this all helps.

 

Interesting image, thanks. That yellow diamond shaped **** is the one you pull to dump air and set the spring brake, right?

It's handy to see what can fit in there.

 

Yes, that's right.

Glad to be of help.

 

just replaced the light switch in my 85 F250. the relaese buttom is on bottem of the switch.

 

Thanks. I'll know where to aim my fumblefingers next time I'm under there.

You know, it's always an interesting question with an older truck: You want to add gauges, switches, etc. But you don't really want to mess up the truck. Everyone has to pick his compromise.

 

This is my frist truck and at some point i may change my mind but im changing the truck alot. The last owner put in an oil and water temp gauge. I want to add an ammeter. and ambey a tack. I am changing the interior quit a bit. bucket seats are in and im gonna put some kinda of floor covering. Love my truck why not make her the way i want her to look? -do have to keep wife away from it. She wants to paint the truck hot pink with lime green wheels!!- Yes she is serious!!

 

The way the instruments are laid out on my '86, there's a blank space in the center. I guess it held a tachometer on rigs with more options. It looks easy to get a column mounted tach and center it right there in front of the panel. I should be able to see the other gauges just fine.

Mine has the factory ammeter, but I wouldn't mind a voltmeter, too. Maybe later. Voltmeters are certainly easier to install on modern vehicles with lots of wiring and large charging systems. The ammeters in the stores are usually "through" type that need heavy wiring and all charging/discharging current goes through the actual meter. Factory meters are shunt type.

A while back, I ordered one of those plastic double pods for the A-pillar, thinking I'd add a couple of gauges to my '77 F250 that way. When the pod came, it was made for something with way more rake to the A-pillar. It probably works fine on a late model Honda Civic or something. My gauges would have been pointing upward steeply. Watch out for those things. I still have the double pod mount hanging on the wall in my shop, in case anyone could use it.

 

You don't have to remove the light switch shaft, just the ****. Turn headlights on, look at rear of ****, there is a little spring clip that holds **** to shaft (same for windshield wiper switch). Depress spring clip with a small screwdriver or awl and while holding down pull **** off shaft. To replace just push **** on shaft. Shaft has a flat side so it only fits one way.

 

Well, that's cool. With the older ones, I always pulled the lights "on," then pushed the button on top of the switch and pulled out the **** and the triangular shaft. This sounds better.

 

This is what a truck with full instrumentation's guage panel looks like(with all new bulbs and all connections cleaned up...):


Note that it also has a trip odometer.

Aftermarket tach clamped on the column:


I have at least a couple spare tach clusters, but, they are metric.

On edit: You can just pull the **** off of the shaft for the headlights, but, I have found that the spring clip that holds it on tends to weaken by doing it that way.
Although, if your truck has intermittent wipers, getting to the release on the headlight switch is a major pain in the behind.