Ok truck wouldn't start this morning. Replaced the GPR last night and all the GP's tested were working correctly. When I tested the GPR this morning, the small terminal closest to the radiator was not reading on my test light. This was registering on my old GPR. Could it be a bad part from Napa? Would this wire keep me from starting, it was maybe 30 deg last night

 

As long as you placed the wires from the old GPR onto the same post-type (i.e. old GPR small post to new GPR small post) on the new GPR, you should be good.

The large post is what energizes the GPs.

There shouldn't be any problem with orientation issues. Like I stated above, as long as wires from a small post are connected to a small post on the new GPR and wires from a large post are connected to a large post on the new GPR, you should be fine.

You can try rotating the GPR wires, still keeping large post to large post and small post to small post, to see if that makes a difference. If it does, problem solved and lesson learned for me, too. Make sure you post whether this fixed the problem or not. If it doesn't, you may a bad GPR.

 

Yeah I thought about that...4 wires not exactly rocket science and I put it on the same way it came off. Had some block heater issues as well. I'll find out when its time to go to work in the morning, supposed to be cold here in OH.

 

Turned out to be bad block heater plug/wires...fired right up this morning. Thanks for all the help!

 

I am having a similar issue with a hard start. Replaced GPR, GP, UVC harness, and top end engine harness. New Injectors and o-rings, starter and batteries. Drawing a blank why still hard.

I do have a slight oil leak from the block heater though. I only notice it when it is plugged in overnight. Could this be the same?

 

bear with me guys, iam a newbie.....and no PSD mechanic, I'll mess around with gas pot but not diesel

truck sat for 4 days.....cold during that time 28ish and no access to a plug. tryed to start after a 20 sec delay, and got crank but no turn over, after 3 attempts she started and the check engine light came on. very little white smoke...almost nothing....however not a ruff idle at all. after she was warm (10 min or so) went on my way and i had a little hesitation and lag....first time it has done this.

what is my first course of action here,

Thanks

Steve
1997 F350 PSD CC 4X4 XLT E40D
220k
Chilliwack B.C
Canada

 

Well you're probably not getting fuel up to the injectors right away. The regulator is probably going bad and leaking back to the tank. I don't know where it is though. Or you have fuel leaking somewhere. Could you duplicate the issue?

 

ounce the truck was warm no issues at all with the start, then at home i plugged her in,

i will see what happins this morning if being plugged in helps or if i have the same issues i'll let ya know

never thought about a fuel leak....interesting....thxs

thxs Steve

 

First course of action with a check engine light is get the code read. That will help to diagnose what is going on with it. Then go ahead and start a new thread, you will get better response.

 

I had the (meltdown) problem with one of the electrical connectors that goes into the valve cover. I went online to Accurate Diesel and they had a great kit. It included everything. I hate to tear into something just to do it again a month later cause i didn't replace what i could. Anyway kit had GP, GPR, 2 valve cover gaskets, all internal pieces to wirinig harness, all 4 external pigtails. I had an internal and external harness burn and had to replace that valve cover gasket. I used to have to plug my truck in below 50 degrees. After the replacement parts it starts first crank not pluged in at 7 degrees. I do recomend pluging it in anyway at this temp just to have it warm before you move it. Oreily's Auto parts has allmost the same kit but just for one side. Ask for the valve cover gasket and it will come up on the computer for them. If you say anything eles they will look at you like you have a !@#K growing out of your forhead. Good hauling!

 

Nice comment on the parts store at the end there Gooch. Rings a lot of bells (bunch of idiots). I went in to advance auto yesterday looking for 2 different size valve locks. First guy didn't even know what they were. Second guy at least knew what they were but said we don't build motors so we don't have any of them. GRRRR. Hang around more if you wish..

 

great advise, i plugged the truck in and the next morning the check engine light went out.......very strange i know , i never reset the battery or had its code read......

then today....not plugged in and the check engine light again came on, iam gonna have a buddy read it for me then iam gonna go from there

steve

 

Once the lamp illuminates, it is irrelevant when it turns off, the code is stored...Find a scanner that reads our trucks and get it scanned..

 

k will do.....thxs

steve

 

Did you get this resolved?

I admit I am no expert by any means, but I believe the block heater being spoken of here is an engine coolant heater, not an oil heater.

If you have oil leaking from your coolant heater, you have serious other issues to deal with. Are you certain the oil leak is not coming from somewhere above the block heater?

BTW...Welcome to the site. Keep the questions coming. You'll find a LOT of experience around here.