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When I start my truck in the morning it always blows black water out of the exhaust. My tail pipe is coated inside with soot pretty bad. I am sure that its not burning oil. The carb is the stock 2150 and was rebuilt a year ago. It runs great when I start it up cold and idles at 700 or 800 rpm and then dies 5 minutes later. When I rev it up over 1500 rpm it shutters but it doesnt happen when the engine is well warmed up. and the gas mileage really sucks. Is their anything wrong with it? Do I need to adjust anything? If so What?
I have been going through the exact same problem with the carb on a truck I just bought. If you have an EGR valve check this first. If I am not mistaken the engine has to reach 85-90 degrees before it is opened allowing exhaust gas in to the manifiold. If your valve is sticking it can cause a similar problem. That said, I have still monkeyed around with mine and found the setup to be extremely sensitive to adjustment and vacume leaks,etc. I saw a good post here the other day that mentioned running an EGR spec carb on a non egr or removed EGR vehicle. This looks to be the major deal in the hassles I have had but hopefully you just have a loose vacume line not allowing your choke to pull off or ??? good luck
It is losing water slowly. I cant seem to figure out what is leaking near my oil filter but it looks like it might be the head gasket. I had the carb rebuilt a year ago so isnt a new power valve something that gets put in? All that I saw on the reciept was a carb rebuild and new floats.
A power valve is included with the kit. It has a diaphragm with vacuum acting on one side and fuel on the other. It helps the carb make the transition from idle to cruise without a big flat spot. A backfire will usually blow out the diaphragm and then fuel gets sucked right through. This valve is under the float bowl and if the cover's wet inside when you take it off, you need a new valve.
How much pressure should the water system have? Today after I was driving around I stepped out of my truck and I heard my radiator rumbling and the overflow tube puked out a bunch of coolant. It has been around 15 F. or less degrees around here and my truck runs at 210 degrees which is how hot it runs during the hottest summer day with the ac on.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 27-Dec-02 AT 05:40 AM (EST)]Your radiator cap should have a number on it for the pressure your running in your cooling system, such as 12 psi or 15 psi. Your owners manual or service manual should tell you the recomended pressure cap you should have along with the thermostat you should be using. A bad radiator cap (weak spring, bad seal) or too low of a pressure cap could be a cause of your cooling system boiling over. By not keeping your cooling system under pressure your coolent will boil out. This could be a cause of you slowing loosing coolent. If your not noticing white smoke/steam comming out the tail pipe after the engine is warmed up and running, then I wouldn't suspect a head gasket. A compression test or leak down test will confirm or eliminate that.
just a thought, on my '73 and '75 f100's, neither likes to be filled to full. i thought to the bottom of filler neck should be the sweet spot but they both puke out until they get to a certain level, then all is fine, never overheat. does that help you any?
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