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Cool Transfercase

Old Nov 17, 2004 | 04:27 AM
  #1  
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f250rangerexplorer
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Lightbulb Cool Transfercase

I came across this transfercase on JBG.com. Anyone have one of these? This case seems to be pretty nice. How good is this case, durability wise for off-roading? I was thinking of a replacement for my New Process 205. Lets here some input.



 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 04:56 AM
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Laughing Gas
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Sorry guys forgot the link. dang it's late. here it is: http://broncograveyard.com/products/cat/18/101/21681



 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 06:53 AM
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From: GANS
Originally Posted by f250rangerexplorer
I came across this transfercase on JBG.com. Anyone have one of these? This case seems to be pretty nice. How good is this case, durability wise for off-roading? I was thinking of a replacement for my New Process 205. Lets here some input.
-Aaron
1978 F-250 Ranger Explorer Trailer Special 4x4
351M, C6, Np205, D44HD, D60 4.10LS
___________________________________________
they are good, but I think the NP205 is stronger and cheaper. They are good fro rockcrawlers and such, but they aren't really made for fullsizes.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 10:13 AM
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Ditto. Atlas cases are not designed for heavy rigs or higher horsepower, just for crawlers, Bronco's, etc. This is not to say you couldn't run one in a full size but I'd keep my 205 anyday. Below is a picture comparing the gear sizes. The gears it's compared to are the lower ratio LoMax but they're the same thickness as the stock 205.



The only big advantages to an Atlas case is the low gear ratio, which you can just about match with a 203/205 doubler, and they're light. A lighter case would be nice but for as heavy as our truck are already I don't think the extra 80 pounds makes a difference.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 11:37 AM
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ah come on Ivan, I am going to alum heads just to save 80lbs now if only A that thing would take my torque, and b I actually needed that low of a gear ratio I could shave another 80.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 02:20 PM
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thanks for the pic Ivan. I figured that these cases weren't as strong but wanted to hear the opiions of others. How muvh weight can one free up on an everday driver, as far as replacing cast and such items with lighter weight?



 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 02:45 PM
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From: GANS
Originally Posted by f250rangerexplorer
thanks for the pic Ivan. I figured that these cases weren't as strong but wanted to hear the opiions of others. How muvh weight can one free up on an everday driver, as far as replacing cast and such items with lighter weight?
-Aaron
1978 F-250 Ranger Explorer Trailer Special 4x4
351M, C6, Np205, D44HD, D60 4.10LS
___________________________________________
not enough to save $3000 before your truck is worn out and you have to buy another, especially since most peoples DD's have NP 208s or BW13xx's which are already lightweight aluminum or magnesium. Unless your daily driver is older than an '80 which in probably won't matter anyways.

the atlas cases were designed with jeeps and buggy in mind so they are relatively strong, yet still light enough to keep the buggy weight down.

If you still want a light case, I'll trade you my NP208F for your NP205
 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 02:49 PM
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Well you could drop a few hundred off your engine by going to aluminum heads and block. Maybe 80 off the t-case by going aluminum, 50-80 off the rear end by dropping the drums and going to discs. But for a daily driver that couple hundred pounds makes no difference. If it were a mud drag truck I could definitely see it. Those guys are losing every pound they possibly can. If I were to go nuts and build a truck soley for mud drags it would have a fiberglass body, aluminum everything, probably a tube frame, etc.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 02:51 PM
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how much weight you could save would really depend on too things, one what is in your vehicle currently, and too how light you want your wallet to be. You can save weight on the transfercase like posted unless you have the np208, and if you have a 9in rear you could put in an alum third member, and alum spool with a set of lightweight gears, and drop about another 40lbs. alum heads on the engine depending on type of engine could save 25-80lbs better yet go alum block and save another couple of hunderd lbs and don't forget to change the trans to a C4, adn use alum driveshafts this will save 25lbs on, and on you could probably shave alot with a fiberglass body or no body it will also save weight because you won't have any money left to buy gas or oil.
NO FAIR Ivan you type faster.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 08:07 PM
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Forget the Alluminum heads and block cause i don't want everything to seize together if for some reason it overheats. Ahhhh that'd really suck. have a nice $4000 engine and have the pistons melt to the cylinders. I'd go insane and catch the thing on fire and commit some insurance fraud. lol. just kidding. i'd never do anything like that. How durable is alluminum in the axles and such?



 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 09:18 PM
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Come on now. If aluminum engine components were so troublesome they wouldn't be running them in every major race application. I think iron is a little more forgiving if you really screw things up but there's nothing wrong with aluminum. All it does on the 9" is house the 3rd member. There's not a lot of stress on it so no worries about strength.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 11:12 PM
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ivan have you ever seen a 3rd member rip the pinion right out of the case and leave a huge hole in the 3rd member? guess not.

I also beleive the lowmax gears are just a tad wider than the 205 gears as well as needing a new case to house everything.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 11:21 PM
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Never seen that happen before Jopey . . . that's crazy!
 
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 11:58 PM
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I know a guy who distengrated the carrier bearings and the entire part that holds them in and sheared both 35 spline axles, but I guess thats what happens in a fulsize bronco running 44 swampers and a 500hp 460.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 03:19 AM
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sounds almost like Pro's truck.



 
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