Charging Problem
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Charging Problem
i have a 90 f150 4x2 super cab, 2 tanks. 300 I6 efi 130,000
ok here it is. lately if i drive say 30 miles at night with the headlight and my driving lights on shut the truck off. then try restarting it with'n a minute or so it cranks like the starter is draging or the battery is low. leave it sit for 10 - 15 minutes hit the key it fires right off.
check the charging system during the day, with headlightd *on highbeam*
driving lights, stereo, amp, heater it shows that everything is fine.
so what im asking is could this be some kinda body/frame grounds ? if so where should i start looking ? how many are there ?
thanks in advance
ok here it is. lately if i drive say 30 miles at night with the headlight and my driving lights on shut the truck off. then try restarting it with'n a minute or so it cranks like the starter is draging or the battery is low. leave it sit for 10 - 15 minutes hit the key it fires right off.
check the charging system during the day, with headlightd *on highbeam*
driving lights, stereo, amp, heater it shows that everything is fine.
so what im asking is could this be some kinda body/frame grounds ? if so where should i start looking ? how many are there ?
thanks in advance
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 1
From: Central NY
It could be the battery having an internal short while its warm but to me it really sounds just like my starter when it started going. Cools off and works fine. One day it won't work at all. By all means clean your grounds, engine and chasis, check your cables (they can rust internally too) and if you still have problems, replace the starter.
Esp before winter sets in and you have to do it in some parking lot on a cold snowy morning...LOL
Popa Tim
Esp before winter sets in and you have to do it in some parking lot on a cold snowy morning...LOL
Popa Tim
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like i said earlier, the battery has been test, the alternator has been tested,
****check the charging system during the day, with headlightd *on highbeam*
driving lights, stereo, amp, heater it shows that everything is fine.***
i cleaned all the grounds today, so will see what happens like popa tim said it could be the starter, which is very very possiable have had them to act like that before. thanks all for your post i appreciate it.
****check the charging system during the day, with headlightd *on highbeam*
driving lights, stereo, amp, heater it shows that everything is fine.***
i cleaned all the grounds today, so will see what happens like popa tim said it could be the starter, which is very very possiable have had them to act like that before. thanks all for your post i appreciate it.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 772
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
Crazz:
With headlights, heater, etc. on,,,you're only pulling about 15 amps. You need to pull at least 50 amps to check the battery and alternator good. Find a Harbor freight tools shop locally or go online, and get a battery and charging system tester. It clamps right on to your battery and has a resistive wire (load) of either 50 or 100 amps. Real easy test to check the battery or the alternator.
I'd say you either have a dead or "shorted cell" on the battery OR a bad diode on the rectifier in the alternator.
Don't forget the connection on the ground wire from the battery to the frame (between the battery and the starter). This is the most overlooked connection in the whole system.
Larry
With headlights, heater, etc. on,,,you're only pulling about 15 amps. You need to pull at least 50 amps to check the battery and alternator good. Find a Harbor freight tools shop locally or go online, and get a battery and charging system tester. It clamps right on to your battery and has a resistive wire (load) of either 50 or 100 amps. Real easy test to check the battery or the alternator.
I'd say you either have a dead or "shorted cell" on the battery OR a bad diode on the rectifier in the alternator.
Don't forget the connection on the ground wire from the battery to the frame (between the battery and the starter). This is the most overlooked connection in the whole system.
Larry
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ok im sorry i didnt make myself any clearer, i used a load tester with all my options on. to test the system, i mean honestly how would just turning a bunch of stuff on test any thing ? i used a load tester i bought from snap on 2 years ago. and i also went to fisher auto & advance auto and got the same results from them as my tester showed,
i cleaned all the chassis ground all grounds period really. so far everything is good. thanks for the post. i was hoping someone had already been through this and found something lil that was wrong..,..
i cleaned all the chassis ground all grounds period really. so far everything is good. thanks for the post. i was hoping someone had already been through this and found something lil that was wrong..,..
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
Now your post makes more sense. The only thing I can think of is heat resistance in the ground cable. Ford made their ground cable with an intermediate clamp between the battery and the other end at the starter. This clamp is below the battery on the frame. It bolts to the frame.
Take the cable off and replace it with a 36"cable and a 60"cable. the 36" goes from the battery to the frame and the 60" to the starter from the frame. make sure you get the frame in that area shiny clean. Clean the bolt and get some preservative grease to coat the joint. Make sue you use a 2 gauge wire. the 4 gauge is ok, but when it starts breaking down or heating up your starter slows down and your voltage is lower getting back to the battery.
Mime did basically the same thing 6 months ago and I replaced everything but the ground cable and it still acted up. Changed the ground cable, everything good!
Larry
Take the cable off and replace it with a 36"cable and a 60"cable. the 36" goes from the battery to the frame and the 60" to the starter from the frame. make sure you get the frame in that area shiny clean. Clean the bolt and get some preservative grease to coat the joint. Make sue you use a 2 gauge wire. the 4 gauge is ok, but when it starts breaking down or heating up your starter slows down and your voltage is lower getting back to the battery.
Mime did basically the same thing 6 months ago and I replaced everything but the ground cable and it still acted up. Changed the ground cable, everything good!
Larry
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From: Tillamook, Ore
Originally Posted by larry derouin
Now your post makes more sense. The only thing I can think of is heat resistance in the ground cable. Ford made their ground cable with an intermediate clamp between the battery and the other end at the starter. This clamp is below the battery on the frame. It bolts to the frame.
Take the cable off and replace it with a 36"cable and a 60"cable. the 36" goes from the battery to the frame and the 60" to the starter from the frame. make sure you get the frame in that area shiny clean. Clean the bolt and get some preservative grease to coat the joint. Make sue you use a 2 gauge wire. the 4 gauge is ok, but when it starts breaking down or heating up your starter slows down and your voltage is lower getting back to the battery.
Mime did basically the same thing 6 months ago and I replaced everything but the ground cable and it still acted up. Changed the ground cable, everything good!
Larry
Take the cable off and replace it with a 36"cable and a 60"cable. the 36" goes from the battery to the frame and the 60" to the starter from the frame. make sure you get the frame in that area shiny clean. Clean the bolt and get some preservative grease to coat the joint. Make sue you use a 2 gauge wire. the 4 gauge is ok, but when it starts breaking down or heating up your starter slows down and your voltage is lower getting back to the battery.
Mime did basically the same thing 6 months ago and I replaced everything but the ground cable and it still acted up. Changed the ground cable, everything good!
Larry
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 423
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From: Providence, RI
In addition, the heat from the engine that is dissipated by the cooling system and airflow when you're running and driving the truck is going to soak into other parts of the engine compartment in the minutes immediately after you shut off the truck. That can raise the resistance from the wires and corroded connections, plus create more load for the starter to try and turn. I've found heat-soaked starters and starter relays (even though they're not integral on most Fords) can cause hot-start problems like you describe. I'd suggest replacing those with quality units, if you are having the problems you describe.
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When your truck won't turn over try starting it with the headlights on to see if they dim from low voltage. Feel the battery cable to see if it heats up from excessive current draw.
I don't like driving lights.
I don't like driving lights.
