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I have an exhaust leak on my 1989 351 V8 and am planning on new headers. I have already installed a Flowmaster 3" single cat back system. The only brand I could find that has the provision for the EGR tube that threads to the right exhaust manifold is the Summit brand (part # SUM-G9036). They are pretty cheap at $160 (plus $20 off for being a repeat buyer), but are made of thinner 16 guage metal. Anyone have feedback regarding these shorty headers. Do they fit well and bolt up pretty easyto the heads and the flanges? Any notice in power changes? I don't want to buy them if they are a PITA to put in. Been there, Done that!
Brian
With the thinner metal, the summit headers will not last as long. That being said..you can maximize them to allow them to last as well as others. Get them ceramic coated inside and out to protect them from rusting, that's the bigest problem with thin headers. That's one reason the Summit headers are cheaper. This will add cost, but allow you to go with the Summit's with the EGR tube.
Being in CO we have low humidity so I thought that rust shouldn't be a big issue. I will iinquire to Summit about coating the headers though, sounds like a good idea anyway.
i got mine BBK shorty chrome finish for $200 also BBK has the largest collector that i have found for shorty headers for the 351 i think they are $10 more these are 14 gauge. Just a thought
I had my shorty headers on my 89 bronco powder coated by a neighbor who bought the stuff from EASTWOOD. The hi temp coating coupled with the fact that they are shorties have held up just fine here in PA where i drive in salty road conditions much of the winter. See if anyone around you powder coats and order the hi temp stuff( like$ 25 for enough to do several sets of headers). If you can't find anybody close who does it, maybe you should take it up as a side buis.! The powder is very durable too, I had him do my lift kit on my 95, my valve covers and pulleys on my 77, and my tire rack on the Bronco as well. ( way tuffer than paint!)
dont buy the summit brand headers! i did and they are actually made by pace setter. they looked like a good quality header until i tried to bolt it on. the first 7 bolts on the pass side went in but the last one would not. i could figure out what the heck was going on which resulted in many cuss words. i even filed the last hole a little bigger and still would not fit. i sent them back and order the flowtech shorty headers and they are awesome. bolt right on perfectly. the gaskets that come are crappy though, they blew out right away. the headers are $181 and some odd cents. i noticed a definite increase and power and picked up one mile per gallon. they are not ceramic coated but have been holding up good and still look fine, they just faded a little. it has the attachment for the egr air tube as well. ill glady answer any more questions........one more thing, the headers werent shown in the catalog so i had to ask, i can find the part number if u need it.
Thanks Fastfox! I had Flowtech on a Mustang and they did fit well. You are right, they are not shown online with Summit so I assumed they didn't make them. What year F150 did you have them on? Was it the 351 V8? And just to make sure, you said that they had the provision for the EGR tube on the right header? Finally, do you recall the part #?. I will defintely order those if I can and I will go with Mr Gaskets and Stage 8 bolts.
i have a '95 F150 xlt with the 351w and yes the egr provision is on the right (pass. side) header. i dont have the part number with me but i am going home this weekend so i can get it then. otherwise when u call summit tell them what vehicle you have and that you want the flowtech shorty headers, thats what i had to do. the pass. side is a problem child. i dont know if youve put headers on a ford truck before but what i did is i took the tire off and the pass. side fender well out. it makes it much much easier to get at the bolts and if yours are like mine they wont want to come out to easy. when putting the shorty header on i had to take the transmission dipstick tube out so i could tighten the rear bolt otherwise its next to impossible because of the shape of the #4 exhuast tube. the two metal egr tubes posed a problem too because they rested again the shorty header. what i did was used 3/4in tubing and cut the metal tubes apart so i could use the angles and rerouted them out of the way using band clamps. its a little time consuming but worth it. any more questions shoot my way. one other thing when u unscrew the egr air tube from the old manifold check to make sure it is not cracked at the stretch joint underneath the heat protectant wrap. mine was which lead to hesitation when starting from a stop. i got a new one at the ford dealership for $51 and that way all the fittings were new and i didnt have to mess with trying to get the old one out. good luck, later
wait i lied, i just found where i wrote it down in my summit catalog. the part number for the flowtech shorty headers is BIG 91-628 and i believe that was for 87-95 ford f150 351w but ask them to make sure. later
well i bought my headers at summit but i got the hedman ones. we had to weld a tube for the egr valve and weld in bungs for the o2 sensers. there long tube. but i have never had a problem with them and i have had them on for 1 1/2 years now.
Thanks again Fastfox! I hate that feeling of going into a project not knowing the obstacles. I have done headers on older cars and most of those were a piece of cake (except the 429 in the Torino, ugh!) so I appreciate the tips. I am printing this out and hopefully all goes well.
I just called Summit and ordered the FlowTech headers, Mr Gasket gaskets and Stage 8 bolts= $232 with $20 off ceritificate. I will let you know how things go.
sweet, sounds good. you will like them. i have to go home this weekend and i dont have internet so i wont beable to respond til sunday night or monday but let me know how things go. you might want to start pulling the old ones off if you can because it might take a while. that way when u get the new ones youre ready to go. i used a torch and a lot of PB Blaster to get the old manifolds off. and if u break one off dont worry because more than likely u just spun the nut on the end off and it didnt break in the block. the manifold will still come off and then u can use a vice grips and really get a grip on a stubborn one, this happened to me once. good luck, ttyl
Last edited by 91fastfox; Sep 17, 2004 at 02:24 PM.
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