EGR Disconnect Instructions
#353
I disconnected the EGR over the weekend. I may notice a tiny bit less turbo lag....but it could be just me hoping. It is not any quieter, if anything slightly louder. Unfortunately I won't be able to tell if te MPG's go up since I installed a Predator in yesterday
03/03 engine build with the latest flash...I think
03/03 engine build with the latest flash...I think
#354
Did my mid year '04 F350 SRW.
Like the change!
Better low RPM response, especially around town. Substantially reduces the "turbo lag".
Louder..a little. especially if cold.
My transmission seemingly can't "learn" the shift routines at mid speeds.
No codes as far as any "check engine" is concerned. We shall see what Ford reads from the computer on my first oil change.
Nephew with his '04 Duramax asked whether I had "chipped" my truck or not. Told him NO...which is the truth! Was waiting for his challenge, but it did not come.
Put 40 bags of 80 lb Sakrete Mix in the bed of my 350 SRW last Saturday and left from the Lowes store following my brother-in-law in his '02 Chevy "2500" 5.7 with 20 bags. When we hit the interstate, I thought he never would get up to merging speed! I was eating his butt up! Poor fellow was riding almost on his rear axle with that "half-load" he was carrying.
I think these Chevy guys I know now understand what a real truck is all about. I'm just trying to decide if I'm going to let them borrow my truck or not the next time they have to haul a real load to their jobsite.
Don't want them to think they might can overload my 350 with 6x6's! (grin)
Also, don't know about the nephews Duramax HD yet. I guess OK for a grocery and kid hauler with a ski boat behind it.
Hope he and the Duramax does't tempt me, cause I'd love to have his money. ......And he knows it!
I know the Duramax is looking for a chip, already. I'm satisfied for now with my stock Powerstroke.
Thanks for the EGR disconnect tip on the 6.0! Great around town!
Can't post milage figures...sorry.
Like the change!
Better low RPM response, especially around town. Substantially reduces the "turbo lag".
Louder..a little. especially if cold.
My transmission seemingly can't "learn" the shift routines at mid speeds.
No codes as far as any "check engine" is concerned. We shall see what Ford reads from the computer on my first oil change.
Nephew with his '04 Duramax asked whether I had "chipped" my truck or not. Told him NO...which is the truth! Was waiting for his challenge, but it did not come.
Put 40 bags of 80 lb Sakrete Mix in the bed of my 350 SRW last Saturday and left from the Lowes store following my brother-in-law in his '02 Chevy "2500" 5.7 with 20 bags. When we hit the interstate, I thought he never would get up to merging speed! I was eating his butt up! Poor fellow was riding almost on his rear axle with that "half-load" he was carrying.
I think these Chevy guys I know now understand what a real truck is all about. I'm just trying to decide if I'm going to let them borrow my truck or not the next time they have to haul a real load to their jobsite.
Don't want them to think they might can overload my 350 with 6x6's! (grin)
Also, don't know about the nephews Duramax HD yet. I guess OK for a grocery and kid hauler with a ski boat behind it.
Hope he and the Duramax does't tempt me, cause I'd love to have his money. ......And he knows it!
I know the Duramax is looking for a chip, already. I'm satisfied for now with my stock Powerstroke.
Thanks for the EGR disconnect tip on the 6.0! Great around town!
Can't post milage figures...sorry.
#355
#356
Throttle plate deleted on 05 6.0L
Well, looks like the 2005 engine has a redesigned EGR valve and has deleted the throttle plate. What they have added is a scoop in the exhaust up-pipe to increase flow to the EGR. Here is a picture of the new system for 05 (scroll to page 7): http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...005_Update.pdf
I am guessing that this new design would have an impact on just unplugging the EGR. Since there is now a mechanical redirection of exhaust gasses toward the EGR valve (instead of the previous suction of gasses from an open valve combined with throttle plate), I would think that by unplugging the valve now will cause more exhaust garbage to collect at the inlet side of the valve. The previous method relied on the down-stream suction to direct exhaust gas toward the valve. Now it seems as if the new design for 05 relies on forcing exhaust gasses on the upstream side toward the valve. Does this design mean that by unplugging and plugging in the valve with an interval between those events will lead to a build up of garbage at the base of the valve that will end up in the intake en mass when the valve is plugged back in and the valve opens? Any opinions from those with more experience?
I am guessing that this new design would have an impact on just unplugging the EGR. Since there is now a mechanical redirection of exhaust gasses toward the EGR valve (instead of the previous suction of gasses from an open valve combined with throttle plate), I would think that by unplugging the valve now will cause more exhaust garbage to collect at the inlet side of the valve. The previous method relied on the down-stream suction to direct exhaust gas toward the valve. Now it seems as if the new design for 05 relies on forcing exhaust gasses on the upstream side toward the valve. Does this design mean that by unplugging and plugging in the valve with an interval between those events will lead to a build up of garbage at the base of the valve that will end up in the intake en mass when the valve is plugged back in and the valve opens? Any opinions from those with more experience?
#357
Unplugged mine this afternoon before driving 60miles home. Turbo seemed to spool up faster and the overhead liar said I got about 1-1.5mpg more. My engine light is now on though. the mileage will be worth it but will be getting a predator soon and may plug it back in if unable to clear codes.
#358
I plugged my EGR back in. I connected my Predator and watched the EGR cycles as I drove. The cycles show as a percentage. Of what, I don't know. It shows 0 until the engine gets fully warmed up. It looked to average 6-8% during normal driving. I need to get more info from Diablo on what the EGR Duty Cycle means.
#359
Originally Posted by moosekingranch
Well, looks like the 2005 engine has a redesigned EGR valve and has deleted the throttle plate. What they have added is a scoop in the exhaust up-pipe to increase flow to the EGR. Here is a picture of the new system for 05 (scroll to page 7): http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...005_Update.pdf
I am guessing that this new design would have an impact on just unplugging the EGR. Since there is now a mechanical redirection of exhaust gasses toward the EGR valve (instead of the previous suction of gasses from an open valve combined with throttle plate), I would think that by unplugging the valve now will cause more exhaust garbage to collect at the inlet side of the valve. The previous method relied on the down-stream suction to direct exhaust gas toward the valve. Now it seems as if the new design for 05 relies on forcing exhaust gasses on the upstream side toward the valve. Does this design mean that by unplugging and plugging in the valve with an interval between those events will lead to a build up of garbage at the base of the valve that will end up in the intake en mass when the valve is plugged back in and the valve opens? Any opinions from those with more experience?
I am guessing that this new design would have an impact on just unplugging the EGR. Since there is now a mechanical redirection of exhaust gasses toward the EGR valve (instead of the previous suction of gasses from an open valve combined with throttle plate), I would think that by unplugging the valve now will cause more exhaust garbage to collect at the inlet side of the valve. The previous method relied on the down-stream suction to direct exhaust gas toward the valve. Now it seems as if the new design for 05 relies on forcing exhaust gasses on the upstream side toward the valve. Does this design mean that by unplugging and plugging in the valve with an interval between those events will lead to a build up of garbage at the base of the valve that will end up in the intake en mass when the valve is plugged back in and the valve opens? Any opinions from those with more experience?
However I think it could be solved by simply bolting on a set of 04 uppipes...I have read nothing to give any reason of doubt as to why they shouldn't fit.
And even if not, that little scoop is nothing that we can't fix with a oxy-acetelene torch, air hammer, welder and some plate steel
#360
Originally Posted by PSD 60L Fx4
Well, this may be a real concern for the 2005 guys...
However I think it could be solved by simply bolting on a set of 04 uppipes...I have read nothing to give any reason of doubt as to why they shouldn't fit.
And even if not, that little scoop is nothing that we can't fix with a oxy-acetelene torch, air hammer, welder and some plate steel
However I think it could be solved by simply bolting on a set of 04 uppipes...I have read nothing to give any reason of doubt as to why they shouldn't fit.
And even if not, that little scoop is nothing that we can't fix with a oxy-acetelene torch, air hammer, welder and some plate steel
Oh well, who cares
#363
Originally Posted by moosekingranch
Well, looks like the 2005 engine has a redesigned EGR valve and has deleted the throttle plate. What they have added is a scoop in the exhaust up-pipe to increase flow to the EGR. Here is a picture of the new system for 05 (scroll to page 7): http://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/diag/2005_Update.pdf
I am guessing that this new design would have an impact on just unplugging the EGR. Since there is now a mechanical redirection of exhaust gasses toward the EGR valve (instead of the previous suction of gasses from an open valve combined with throttle plate), I would think that by unplugging the valve now will cause more exhaust garbage to collect at the inlet side of the valve. The previous method relied on the down-stream suction to direct exhaust gas toward the valve. Now it seems as if the new design for 05 relies on forcing exhaust gasses on the upstream side toward the valve. Does this design mean that by unplugging and plugging in the valve with an interval between those events will lead to a build up of garbage at the base of the valve that will end up in the intake en mass when the valve is plugged back in and the valve opens? Any opinions from those with more experience?
I am guessing that this new design would have an impact on just unplugging the EGR. Since there is now a mechanical redirection of exhaust gasses toward the EGR valve (instead of the previous suction of gasses from an open valve combined with throttle plate), I would think that by unplugging the valve now will cause more exhaust garbage to collect at the inlet side of the valve. The previous method relied on the down-stream suction to direct exhaust gas toward the valve. Now it seems as if the new design for 05 relies on forcing exhaust gasses on the upstream side toward the valve. Does this design mean that by unplugging and plugging in the valve with an interval between those events will lead to a build up of garbage at the base of the valve that will end up in the intake en mass when the valve is plugged back in and the valve opens? Any opinions from those with more experience?
I've had my EGR unplugged for some time now ... and I recently did the instrument cluster thing ... to find that no codes are set.
#364
Originally Posted by PSD 60L Fx4
Well, this may be a real concern for the 2005 guys...
However I think it could be solved by simply bolting on a set of 04 uppipes...I have read nothing to give any reason of doubt as to why they shouldn't fit.
And even if not, that little scoop is nothing that we can't fix with a oxy-acetelene torch, air hammer, welder and some plate steel
Wow...after reading that last post of mine, I beleive I am becoming obsessive-compulsive about even the most minor of performance enhancements like EGR
Oh well, who cares
Because, the obsessive-compulsive thing you have might lead 2005 owners to do the wrong thing with the EGR disconnect!
I suspect a lot of 2005 owners might be a little more cautious as toward EGR disconnect.....???? (They apparently should be.)
Does it appear that Ford did a redesign of the EGR/exaust system for 2005? By your own posts...seems so.
If so why "bolt on" an old system??
Darn.... this thread is gettn' very deep and even those that seem to be an "authority" don't seem to know what's happening? (Notice that I did't use the word "expert" in the above.)
Well, this may be a real concern for the 2005 guys...
However I think it could be solved by simply bolting on a set of 04 uppipes...I have read nothing to give any reason of doubt as to why they shouldn't fit.
And even if not, that little scoop is nothing that we can't fix with a oxy-acetelene torch, air hammer, welder and some plate steel
Wow...after reading that last post of mine, I beleive I am becoming obsessive-compulsive about even the most minor of performance enhancements like EGR
Oh well, who cares
Because, the obsessive-compulsive thing you have might lead 2005 owners to do the wrong thing with the EGR disconnect!
I suspect a lot of 2005 owners might be a little more cautious as toward EGR disconnect.....???? (They apparently should be.)
Does it appear that Ford did a redesign of the EGR/exaust system for 2005? By your own posts...seems so.
If so why "bolt on" an old system??
Darn.... this thread is gettn' very deep and even those that seem to be an "authority" don't seem to know what's happening? (Notice that I did't use the word "expert" in the above.)
#365
Originally Posted by PSD 60L Fx4
This issue has been a hot discussion topic for several weeks now.
For everyone’s reference and use, I am going to list step by step instructions on the disconnection of the EGR system and removal of the EGR backpressure throttle plate (this throttle plate is only present in early 03 builds, and all 2004 builds; This is in reference to the ENGINE build date, not the trucks; if this does not apply to you simply skip over it and disconnect the EGR only)
First off, I will enlighten everyone (those of you who have not been keeping up with this discussion) with the pros and cons of this procedure. There have been many, many threads on this; please go back and read through these if you wish to uncover the details of the subject. Here are a couple of the more recent threads…
http://www.fordtrucks.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=254050
http://www.fordtrucks.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=240135
Here are two earlier posts I made about its effects on my motor-
In reference to this post, check out this link
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_031.jpg
You can see in the illustration how air is extracted from the passenger side upipe the EGR before it reaches the turbocharger.
Here is a quote pulled from FredsF250TD in another thread…
On most 03’s you will not receive a performance gain, as mentioned earlier. However, in all build dates, by disconnecting the EGR, you will clean up your intake air by preventing the recirculation of engine carbon, ect. Theoretically this will increase the life of both your oil and engine.
Before beginning the removal procedure, please check out this link to the 6.0 Bible.
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60_manual/
Consult these three pages
1. http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_009.jpg
2. http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_038.jpg
3. http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_037.jpg
The EGR is located on a small black cylinder (the black cylinder is the valve itself) right between the oil filter housing and intake elbow on top of the motor-just pull the plug. If you cannot find the location of it, first check the links above. Second – under the hood of the vehicle, look direcly to the center of the top of the motor. You will see a large black cylinder sticking out of the top of the motor; it is the largest object front-side of the turbocharger. Direcly in front of it will be a smaller black cylinder, with a 4-wire weatherpack connector on top. Reach down, pull the tab on the backside of the plug, and remove it. This will disconnect the EGR valve. (Ensure that the switch to the vehicle is off before pulling it, the vehicle must be off to ensure the valve is closed. Otherwise, it is possible to lock it in the open position.)
The throttle plate is a slightly more involved process to remove. REMEMBER, this is not necessary for later 03 build dates; once you get the elbow off there will be no plate. However, for anyone with a set of sockets, it is simple. Here are the tools you will need – a 3/8 drive ratchet, a 3/8 extension bar (preferably a fairly long one), an 8mm socket, a 10mm socket, and either a 9mm socket or a flathead screwdriver, depending on the build date of the engine. To begin – remove the clamp holding the boost tube to the engine. The boost tube comes up from the bottom of the right side of the front of the motor, over top the motor, and into the elbow. The clamp will either be located on a piece of flexible rubber hose (03 build) or on a rigid black plastic pipe (04 build). For 03 build, there will be two clamps, remove the one closest to the aluminum elbow. Remove these and slide the boost tube over out of the way.
The elbow will have 4 bolts holding it onto the throttle body assembly. Three are 8mm; the front left side bolt is a longer, 10mm bolt. Remove these, and pull the intake off. In either the groove on the bottom side of the intake or the top side of the throttle assembly, there will be a large rubber o-ring. If possible, leave this ring in one of the grooves. If not, lay it to the side and DO NOT LOSE IT. When looking into the throttle assembly, you should see a large butterfly valve mounted in the throttle assembly. (ONCE AGAIN, if you do not, you have a late 03 build; begin the reassembly process) On both the right and left hand side of the throttle assembly you will see black boxes with wires leading into them; the left hand side is the throttle body servo motor, the right hand side is the throttle plate position sensor. It is not necessary to do anything to these.
To remove the plate, you will need a #10 torx driver. There are two small torx screws holding the plate to the throttle plate mounting crossbar. Rotate the plate to the SHUT position and loosen these screws. Before removing the screws totally, ensure that you have a magnet to pick them up with. YOU MUST NOT DROP THE SCREWS INTO THE INTAKE. Remove the screws with the magnet. Rotate the plate back to the open position, and pull the plate straight up to remove it.
For reassembly, start with the rubber o-ring between the throttle body and the intake elbow. If the motor was hot when you removed the o-ring, soak it in water for 30 seconds to cool it down; as if it is hot it will not properly fit back into the slot. Be sure the o-ring is properly seated and place the intake elbow back on top of the throttle body, ensuring that the holes are lined up. The larger of the 4 bolts goes back into the bottom left hand side. Retighten. Then, slip the boost tube back over the lip on the intake elbow. Retighten the clamp holding the tube on, and ensure that it is quite snug, BUT DO NOT STRIP IT OUT. If you have an 04 motor, do not slide the plastic tube all the way back to the end of the lip of the elbow. Slide it most of the way and snug it up lightly; wiggle it until it seats and then fully tighten. Start the motor and ensure that you cannot hear any air noises, ect. Presto.
If anyone would like further information on effects of the EGR, or the removal, feel free to email me or send a private message. I will provide any knowledge/knowhow I have on the subject.
For everyone’s reference and use, I am going to list step by step instructions on the disconnection of the EGR system and removal of the EGR backpressure throttle plate (this throttle plate is only present in early 03 builds, and all 2004 builds; This is in reference to the ENGINE build date, not the trucks; if this does not apply to you simply skip over it and disconnect the EGR only)
First off, I will enlighten everyone (those of you who have not been keeping up with this discussion) with the pros and cons of this procedure. There have been many, many threads on this; please go back and read through these if you wish to uncover the details of the subject. Here are a couple of the more recent threads…
http://www.fordtrucks.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=254050
http://www.fordtrucks.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=240135
Here are two earlier posts I made about its effects on my motor-
In reference to this post, check out this link
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_031.jpg
You can see in the illustration how air is extracted from the passenger side upipe the EGR before it reaches the turbocharger.
Here is a quote pulled from FredsF250TD in another thread…
On most 03’s you will not receive a performance gain, as mentioned earlier. However, in all build dates, by disconnecting the EGR, you will clean up your intake air by preventing the recirculation of engine carbon, ect. Theoretically this will increase the life of both your oil and engine.
Before beginning the removal procedure, please check out this link to the 6.0 Bible.
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60_manual/
Consult these three pages
1. http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_009.jpg
2. http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_038.jpg
3. http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_037.jpg
The EGR is located on a small black cylinder (the black cylinder is the valve itself) right between the oil filter housing and intake elbow on top of the motor-just pull the plug. If you cannot find the location of it, first check the links above. Second – under the hood of the vehicle, look direcly to the center of the top of the motor. You will see a large black cylinder sticking out of the top of the motor; it is the largest object front-side of the turbocharger. Direcly in front of it will be a smaller black cylinder, with a 4-wire weatherpack connector on top. Reach down, pull the tab on the backside of the plug, and remove it. This will disconnect the EGR valve. (Ensure that the switch to the vehicle is off before pulling it, the vehicle must be off to ensure the valve is closed. Otherwise, it is possible to lock it in the open position.)
The throttle plate is a slightly more involved process to remove. REMEMBER, this is not necessary for later 03 build dates; once you get the elbow off there will be no plate. However, for anyone with a set of sockets, it is simple. Here are the tools you will need – a 3/8 drive ratchet, a 3/8 extension bar (preferably a fairly long one), an 8mm socket, a 10mm socket, and either a 9mm socket or a flathead screwdriver, depending on the build date of the engine. To begin – remove the clamp holding the boost tube to the engine. The boost tube comes up from the bottom of the right side of the front of the motor, over top the motor, and into the elbow. The clamp will either be located on a piece of flexible rubber hose (03 build) or on a rigid black plastic pipe (04 build). For 03 build, there will be two clamps, remove the one closest to the aluminum elbow. Remove these and slide the boost tube over out of the way.
The elbow will have 4 bolts holding it onto the throttle body assembly. Three are 8mm; the front left side bolt is a longer, 10mm bolt. Remove these, and pull the intake off. In either the groove on the bottom side of the intake or the top side of the throttle assembly, there will be a large rubber o-ring. If possible, leave this ring in one of the grooves. If not, lay it to the side and DO NOT LOSE IT. When looking into the throttle assembly, you should see a large butterfly valve mounted in the throttle assembly. (ONCE AGAIN, if you do not, you have a late 03 build; begin the reassembly process) On both the right and left hand side of the throttle assembly you will see black boxes with wires leading into them; the left hand side is the throttle body servo motor, the right hand side is the throttle plate position sensor. It is not necessary to do anything to these.
To remove the plate, you will need a #10 torx driver. There are two small torx screws holding the plate to the throttle plate mounting crossbar. Rotate the plate to the SHUT position and loosen these screws. Before removing the screws totally, ensure that you have a magnet to pick them up with. YOU MUST NOT DROP THE SCREWS INTO THE INTAKE. Remove the screws with the magnet. Rotate the plate back to the open position, and pull the plate straight up to remove it.
For reassembly, start with the rubber o-ring between the throttle body and the intake elbow. If the motor was hot when you removed the o-ring, soak it in water for 30 seconds to cool it down; as if it is hot it will not properly fit back into the slot. Be sure the o-ring is properly seated and place the intake elbow back on top of the throttle body, ensuring that the holes are lined up. The larger of the 4 bolts goes back into the bottom left hand side. Retighten. Then, slip the boost tube back over the lip on the intake elbow. Retighten the clamp holding the tube on, and ensure that it is quite snug, BUT DO NOT STRIP IT OUT. If you have an 04 motor, do not slide the plastic tube all the way back to the end of the lip of the elbow. Slide it most of the way and snug it up lightly; wiggle it until it seats and then fully tighten. Start the motor and ensure that you cannot hear any air noises, ect. Presto.
If anyone would like further information on effects of the EGR, or the removal, feel free to email me or send a private message. I will provide any knowledge/knowhow I have on the subject.
I have one question for you. Do you realy have to remove the throtle plate if you disconect the EGR? I have a 04/04 and I did disconect the EGR, but have not removed the throttle plate. With the EGR disconected won't that disable the throttle plate, since the ECM has no signal from the EGR?
#366
Originally Posted by Catfish_Man
Darn.... this thread is gettn' very deep and even those that seem to be an "authority" don't seem to know what's happening? (Notice that I did't use the word "expert" in the above.)
NONE of us get paid for this (at least I don't ) and so none of us may be considered experts - just experienced....
and given that we don't get paid, we shouldn't have to be ridiculed either (if that was your intent)
#367
Originally Posted by montanacw
I have one question for you. Do you realy have to remove the throtle plate if you disconect the EGR? I have a 04/04 and I did disconect the EGR, but have not removed the throttle plate. With the EGR disconected won't that disable the throttle plate, since the ECM has no signal from the EGR?
#368
Originally Posted by jdadamsjr
We are all just learining here and trying to help each other out....
NONE of us get paid for this (at least I don't ) and so none of us may be considered experts - just experienced....
and given that we don't get paid, we shouldn't have to be ridiculed either (if that was your intent)
NONE of us get paid for this (at least I don't ) and so none of us may be considered experts - just experienced....
and given that we don't get paid, we shouldn't have to be ridiculed either (if that was your intent)
#369
#370
Originally Posted by jdadamsjr
We are all just learining here and trying to help each other out....
NONE of us get paid for this (at least I don't ) and so none of us may be considered experts - just experienced....
and given that we don't get paid, we shouldn't have to be ridiculed either (if that was your intent)
NONE of us get paid for this (at least I don't ) and so none of us may be considered experts - just experienced....
and given that we don't get paid, we shouldn't have to be ridiculed either (if that was your intent)
Was not my intent to ridicle anybody!
(After all, I'm running my own '04 with the EGR disconnected right now!)
Point was is that no "expert" here says anyting about longevity inpacts, and it is very certian that Ford does not endorse this EGR dicconnect mod.
Further information suggests that Ford has modified the exhaust gas routing to better improve performance on 2005 units??
People that own units certified for California emissions seem to be SOL for this whole thread. And that engines built for California emissions in '03-'04 will produce a "check engine light" if the EGR is disconnected.
Right?
#371
Originally Posted by chrisblange
Unplugged mine this afternoon before driving 60miles home. Turbo seemed to spool up faster and the overhead liar said I got about 1-1.5mpg more. My engine light is now on though. the mileage will be worth it but will be getting a predator soon and may plug it back in if unable to clear codes.
#373
#374
I use a flashlight and fill up till i see fuel sitting calmly in the neck. As far as the overhear LoM, for the trip I mentioned, I reset it each time I take that route so the data is calculated over the same route, speed, etc. I set the cruise at 65mph and leave it there until I arrive at work - only a couple of blocks off the highway, so all the parameters (other than the weather) are the same.
#375
Originally Posted by PSD 60L Fx4
The valve is defaulted to open on 2004 strategies when the key is ON. With it off, the valve is shut; this is why you must ensure that the ignition is off with the key out when you unplug.
You have just spent the last two nights reading this thread (made my head hurt last nite!!)
What a wealth of info. I noticed that mine "fell out last nite" but today I read the above and had a question.
Does the key have to be out of the ign. when you unplug??
Mine was off, but the keys were hanging in the column. Will this have any effect?? If so what procedure should I folow to correct.
Thanx for the great info!! You obviously have A LOT OF EXPERIENCE with these motors and the will to help others!!!!
Trevor