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  #16  
Old 07-21-2004, 02:49 AM
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what kinda HP you gonna be runnin?
 
  #17  
Old 07-21-2004, 07:39 AM
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Well dd estimates 530hp at 6k If i can get the right compression.
 
  #18  
Old 07-21-2004, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by EgoMan
LMAO!! Thats what i thought i was researching chevy rods 2.2 crank pin.... mines 2.5... Is is possible to shave the journals down to 2.2 to throw in bbc rods?
oh yea so whats zero deck? whats it measure too? because if i shave .044" off its .112 which is stock 390 deck clearance.....right....?
Rich....zero Deck height is where the piston is even with the top of the deck on the block...Sean (Ratsmoker) runs a zero deck height on his build...
 
  #19  
Old 07-21-2004, 09:51 AM
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Thanks russ...I was thinking for some reason that he had the deck machined down to its minimum height. Can i shave the deck at all?
 
  #20  
Old 07-21-2004, 12:57 PM
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I haven't done it but I have figured out that:
1. certain dodge slant six rods are 7.00 inches center to center (194 cid I think)
2. there is a chevy piston with the correct bore diameter and compression height
3. someone has used slant six rods in an FE performance motor.
http://www.bacomatic.org/~dw/443/443.htm
4. this combo would give you zero deck height with no machining. And a rod to stroke ratio of 2.0:1.
 
  #21  
Old 07-21-2004, 01:42 PM
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Thats cool stuff there....The problem is whose to say the slant six rods will handle 500hp any better than the 360 rods? Im not trying to reach zero deck im just trying to find ways of increasing my compression.....Its not looking good due to lack of support for the rotating assembly im not sure if i want to put 2k+ into rods and pistons..... I might as well go to a blower for all that trouble.
 
  #22  
Old 07-21-2004, 03:19 PM
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0 Deck is very desireable. It helps to prevent detonation. If your piston is down the hole then the likelihood of detonation is increased. Since you are talking about building a hot rod it matters. Dont shave your deck height for any reason other than to correct warpage. Also, stock deck height for the FE series engine is 10.17", measured from the crank centerline to the top of the deck. I don't know about machining a stock crank to 2.2 journals, it will take someone with more hot rodding knowlege than me. Mine has 2.2 journals, but it is a custom billet. I think the question to be asking is, has anybody got a good reason not to just upgrade the stock rods with good bolts and use em? If they don't have a history of breaking, maybe this is just alot of head banging.

-Scouder
 
  #23  
Old 07-21-2004, 04:45 PM
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I agree..... I have never heard of anyone running 500hp with long rods. I know the short ones will. I was trying to find someone who machines custom jobs....still looking though. As to 0 deck if your deck is 0 then how do you achieve piston to valve clearance? Pistons with deep valve reliefs? This was a topic i was interested in when i was still planning a 416 before i switched to this. I was told that a .012" deck would not clear the valves so that would mean 0 is totally out.
 
  #24  
Old 07-21-2004, 05:13 PM
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Don't confuse piston to deck clearance with valve clearance. Set your piston to deck relationship first, then the valve clearance. Valve clearance is a product of your valve relief depth at TDC, lift, and gasket thickness. You will check this with a piece of clay during assembly. I'll bet you don't have a problem. I think my pistons (Arias) recommended .090 for normal aspiration and .125 for supercharged, if I remember right. If it isn't right, your machinist can deepen your valve reliefs to accomodate.

-Scouder
 
  #25  
Old 07-21-2004, 06:37 PM
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Well thats what i thought....... I know alot of original fe combinations had .012", .oo5", and even .0005" deck clearance so it shouldnt be that big of a problem. Of course they werent running neer as much lift either.
 
  #26  
Old 07-21-2004, 09:42 PM
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If you asked me, those slant 6 rods on that link looked wimpy. I dont know that I'd trust 'em. Of course, I dont know I'd trust the long rods any more. Typically, rods are broken by excessive RPM's or bad rod bolts.

I think you'll be OK with the long rods as long as the RPM's dont go much above 6000. They made some pretty high performance 352's back in the day with long rods and fairly high compression.

I'd look for more piston options. A piston with 1.846" compression height is what you need. With long rods this should give you 0.034" deck clearance. 1.846" compression height pistons were in the 1966 352 engine. So, if you take your 360 block .010" overbore, and get .060" over 1966 352 pistons, you should be in business.
 
  #27  
Old 07-21-2004, 10:44 PM
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Well thats kinda what i was thinking. Although I dont wanna stop at 6000 rpms. I know if i used a 390 length rod and a 1.902 piston I can get .03 deck clearance and 9.6:1 cr that was the ft 361 piston height...BTW: Was lookin at those 352 pistons and they had some taller ones too 1.953! thats out of the hole though. In order to get 10:1 I will have to run a thinner head gasket like .021" I think those are the shim style. What do you think will it work?
 
  #28  
Old 07-22-2004, 10:05 PM
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Hey scouder, if your out there i was meaning to ask you. Did CSI sell that electric water pump FOR the FE or did you convert it to work? This is the only water pump i really want to run.
 
  #29  
Old 07-22-2004, 10:09 PM
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Hrm, if you can run short rods and those high compression height pistons, that's the way to go. The Fel-Pro permatorque head gaskets I have for my 390 build are only .020" thick, FWIW.
 
  #30  
Old 07-22-2004, 10:17 PM
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If you want a set of 360 rods I have them with origional pistons atached my block was cracked so I had to buy a new motor I also have the two barrel intake and valve covers if anyones iterested
 


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