Peter

I won't be as much help as I wish I could. Been a long time since I messed with a Jacobs and unsure what you have there exactly. I assume we are getting 12V to the input side of BR? the smoke was my clue How much voltage out of the BR? Should be 6-8V most likely. Are we getting any spark at all out of the coil wire?

 

I hesitate to answer threads from time to time because even though I am farmiliar with the theory of the ignition systems I don't know the products that are being used. The ballast resistors that I am familiar with are the old ceramic and the nichrome wire variety. It is my understanding that the ceramic style is what is being used. I have seen the old ceramic housings crack and the bar that the resistaor is wrapped on broken which has caused shorting problems or an incomplete circuit.
The owner of the 59 has me curious about something as well. Would it not have been easier to put a hot wire from the positive side of the solinoid to the positive side of the coil and started the vehicle? When your ignition went back to the run position the hot wire would have kept the engine running.
Good luck with your ignition system.

Gear Up

 

I just went thru the same problem. I wasn't getting any spark and as I was cranking the wire from the coil to the dist. got red hot and smoked my points. I checked everything I could think of. Even pulled the coil and measured the resistance between primary and secondary coils. The resistance numbers looked good so I charged on. Replaced the BR, replaced wire from coil to dist., doubled checked point gap etc. Finally put an old dusty coil in for the new shiny chrome one and viola, spark. Went down and bought a new MSD coil and I now have good spark. Still not starting but I have spark and fuel. I pulled the Mallory dual point dist. out this evening and am putting in a duraspark II setup to see if I can get the engine to light off.
This is getting agravating.
So, in short, try swapping the coil and see if the spark comes back. Everything else you have described looks good. Your wiring is correct and a little smoke from a new BR is normal but not after it is used. As I mentioned above, you described the same scenario I just went thru with my bad coil.
Lets us know what it turns out to be.

 

Peter,

The ballast resistor does not ground to anything. It must be isolated from ground. Usually the way the unit is made prevents it from grounding when it is mounted on the firewall. There are two types of coils too, but my swiss cheese memory won't let me remember what the differences are. I can't see the mystery wire in the picture very well, but if it connects the 'I' terminal with the end of the BR that goes to the coil, that should be correct. Sorry I con't be of more help...

Vern

 

Alright, I've been trying to stay out of this, but here goes. Just curious. Did you try checking continuity from ground to each of the BR posts? There should be none. So that will solve the question of a grounded BR. Now Dewayne, you commented on the topic of whether a BR is even necessary on electronic ignitions and said the coil could blow without it. However, past posts from people using electronic ignitions stated that they had removed their BR as directed by the installation instructions. So which is it? In my best George Constanza voice: WORLDS ARE COLLIDING!. John

 

Am making a bracket to install the BR back on the manifold and taking a small lunch break.

John... there are two types of coil and four different configurations for coil setups, according to my old Motors book and old applications. One coil has an internal resistor... so, no surprise, 'fenders is right in a given situation. My pertronix demands that the BR remain in the setup... this, then, does not make it less confusing. Suffice to say that one coil does not fit all. More later. himmelberg

 

Peter,

Ahhh, thanks for jogging my memory on the two types of coils. I vaguely remember that you should not use a coil with an internal resistor in a vehicle where it's not supposed to have one. However, now I don't remember when or what you use one or the other on. As far as the BR and electronic ignitions go, it does go both ways. Some require them and some don't.

I don't think moving the BR back to it's perch on the manifold is going to help even though it might make you feel better...

Vern

 

Made a bracket to attach my BR to the manifold. It did make me feel good, Vern... and it stopped smoking. Now, it seems that we are starved for fuel.

I've got the 553 Edelbrock with 2100's aboard. Am considering going from my 51 jets to 58's on my center carb. I have blocked off the end carbs until the center is sorted. Where the heck is Carl when I need him?

I really do appreciate all of the help that each of you offer with my problems. gratefully. himmelberg

 

I wonder if the smoke was the paint undernedth the BR burning from the heat? Have you checked the float setting on the carb? Good luck, John

 

Hi

I went to 56's on the center carb on my 54 merc it worked, I also left my two outer carbs blocked. It was either to much fuel with three or not enough with one until I rejeted the center one

Chuck

 

John

I am not saying ALL electronic ignitions use a BR. But I believe it is false to say that none do. Peter is running electronic ignition with a BR. I believe some cars with electronic ignition actually use a resistance wire instead of a BR. So they actually have a voltage step down and may not even realize it. My MSD instructions definitely call for use of a BR. I am running stock Ford electronic ignition with an MSD Blaster coil.

Peter

Throw a shot of gas down that carb and tell us what you got. I wish I was a teacher so I could work on my truck and fish all day. Don't you have some houses that need painted? Or don't modern day educators do that during the summer anymore.

 

I have an electronic ignition on my 56 that DOES need the BR in the system to work, also it is designed to use a coil from a POINTS set-up, so it seems like just about any configuration is possible, need to refer to the documentation. Also, as stated below:

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think there should be a second wire connected to the side of the ballast resistor going to the coil. This wire should come from the starter solenoid and provide 12V to the points when you turn the switch to "start". As soon the switch returns from "start" to "on", the wire at the other end of the ballast resistor provides 12V though the resistor which is reduced to 6V at the points. You should have 12 Volts for starting even through points.

Vern
Like Vern, I have this second wire in my 56 (302 from 70's)

 

Yes, boys, many of us who are younger remember fondly those summer days where all you had to do was fish or work on your jalopy. As an older boy, I get to relive that.

Good news. Starts. Doesn't smoke in the new old position on the manifold. Runs like it's starving for gas. Am wondering aloud again... do I up the jet size for this particular manifold.

When I replaced the "tailpipe" (TM) carb, I installed a 94 with larger #58 jets.
Lumbered into a world of richness that couldn't be amended. My plan was to put #48's on the end carbs of the Edelbrock intake... but that fell to making it all work with what I knew worked previously. I blocked off the ends and put my spanking new 2100 on... the one that worked so well on my stock manifold. Now its starved for gas. I'm upping my jet size unless someone has a better idea. thanks. himmelberg

 

'fenders... when I paint I paint murals. Lots easier than housepainting. Make more money in much less time. himmelberg

 

When you say it's starving for gas, when is that? Idle, 30mph? John