Installing a starter button
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Installing a starter button
I am wanting to add a push button starter switch. I am trying to determine how I should approach this and which wires I will need to use. I took a look at my haynes manual and well I might as well have looked at another language. For starter relay and distributor it shows red-light blue, I put a grounded test light on each wire and they were both hot so I figured that can't be right or at least I can't determine which other wire I use to get the starter to engage. I just need something simple, I could care less about the acc function of the key switch (key back). I wanna use existing wires on the column.
I know this much, you turn the key forward the coil is hot, you push it all the way forward it turns the starter over. So if I can get some assistance as to which wires I should use for a toggle switch to send juice to the coil and to shut the motor off, and which wires to use to turn the starter over, that would be appreciated. Its an 87 f150 if that info is required. Thanks
I know this much, you turn the key forward the coil is hot, you push it all the way forward it turns the starter over. So if I can get some assistance as to which wires I should use for a toggle switch to send juice to the coil and to shut the motor off, and which wires to use to turn the starter over, that would be appreciated. Its an 87 f150 if that info is required. Thanks
Last edited by jwtaylor; Jun 2, 2004 at 03:57 PM.
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From: Virginia
"For starter relay and distributor it shows red-light blue"
That is correct. If you find the red-lightblue on the ignition switch, you could run a hot wire to a switch, and then to the red-light blue. it should turn over. If it doesn't, then there is something wrong with the clutch pedal interlock switch, or if it is an automatic, there is something wrong with the neutral safety switch on the side of the tranny. The red-light blue wire color follows through the whole circuit till it gets to the starter relay on the fender.
The ignition switch is another story. If you look at the first page of the schematics where it is located in the diagrams, you will see it's very complex, and will require a lot of head scratching and switch hunting to try to get it right.
That is correct. If you find the red-lightblue on the ignition switch, you could run a hot wire to a switch, and then to the red-light blue. it should turn over. If it doesn't, then there is something wrong with the clutch pedal interlock switch, or if it is an automatic, there is something wrong with the neutral safety switch on the side of the tranny. The red-light blue wire color follows through the whole circuit till it gets to the starter relay on the fender.
The ignition switch is another story. If you look at the first page of the schematics where it is located in the diagrams, you will see it's very complex, and will require a lot of head scratching and switch hunting to try to get it right.
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Well here is what I have determined, there are no red and light blue wires. So by it saying "red-light blue" I am assuming this is two wires. Upon looking under the column there is a white wire with red dots/ marks on it, and a light blue wire. I connected a grounded test light to the white wire with red dots/ marks and it was hot all the time, I connected the same test light to the light blue and it came on with the key turned forward. So does it make sense to connect two wires that are hot? I believe I am going to see sparks in my future if I connect those two, correct? I think I am completely lost now, haha. appreciate the response
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All the diagrams show a red/lightblue. The first color(red) is the base color of the wire, and the second color(lightblue) is the stripe or hash marks(dots). Sometimes these wires get old and hard to see. You should have the same color wire out on the inner fender at the starter relay.
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Well I found the red/light blue wire, I don't know if it matter or not but I connected a known hot wire to a test light then to the red/light blue wire, it lit up but nothing happened, any thoughts? Truck still starts fine using the key.
Seems I developed another problem, my brake lights don't work anymore, nor does the hazard lights in the rear, they do in the front, turn signal works in the back and front. Would the steering wheel being off the column cause this, I don't see why it would?
I am a but frustrated to say the least, I hooked power directly off the battery to the coil through my toggle switch and then jumped the solenoid with a piece of wire and the push button switch, at least I know both of those work fine. Now if I can figure out which wires under the dash send power to the fuse box etc when as well as the coil. Appreciate the response.
Seems I developed another problem, my brake lights don't work anymore, nor does the hazard lights in the rear, they do in the front, turn signal works in the back and front. Would the steering wheel being off the column cause this, I don't see why it would?
I am a but frustrated to say the least, I hooked power directly off the battery to the coil through my toggle switch and then jumped the solenoid with a piece of wire and the push button switch, at least I know both of those work fine. Now if I can figure out which wires under the dash send power to the fuse box etc when as well as the coil. Appreciate the response.
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Found out why I had no brake lights or rear hazard, after I realized the truck wouldn't start with every thing reassembled, the wire to the S on the solenoid was not hooked up, forgot to reattach it when I was done hooking things up directly.
I figured out that the ignition switch is actually under the dash, all the key or key cylinder does is actuate mechanically a rod that runs the length of the steering column, then in turn moves a switch on the bottom of the actual igniton switch.
What I have done is taken the switch apart and see what is making contact in certain positions like run and start. Here is my question, if I connect all the wires that put the system in the run mode to a toggle then put all the wires that cause the starter to turn over to the push button, will I have problems if these two functions are active at the same time? Between them there are only two wires that are common. I am sure I will give it a shot but I am not certain of the long term effects if it does work this way. Any input appreciated, thanks
I figured out that the ignition switch is actually under the dash, all the key or key cylinder does is actuate mechanically a rod that runs the length of the steering column, then in turn moves a switch on the bottom of the actual igniton switch.
What I have done is taken the switch apart and see what is making contact in certain positions like run and start. Here is my question, if I connect all the wires that put the system in the run mode to a toggle then put all the wires that cause the starter to turn over to the push button, will I have problems if these two functions are active at the same time? Between them there are only two wires that are common. I am sure I will give it a shot but I am not certain of the long term effects if it does work this way. Any input appreciated, thanks
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From: Virginia
The ignition switch has different sections(officially called poles) because even though the different sections are fed by the same hot wire, the circuits they feed need to be kept seperate.
One example is the circuit that feeds the coil. If your starter solenoid has one small wire going to it(the one you forgot to put back on) instead of two small wires, then your switch has an added contact that takes 12 volt and puts it on the positive of the coil while starting to bypass the resistor. It also has another start contact that actually puts 12 volts to the starter relay wire(the one you forgot to put back on).
If you took these two seperate circuits(the start and the resistor bypass) and tied them all to one spot on one start switch, then the starter would run constantly, since when you released the start button, the run button would be feeding the resistor and then the coil positive, which would also run backwards to the common spot on your start switch, which would then run over and keep the starter solenoid pulled in all the time.
I warned you it was not simple.
One example is the circuit that feeds the coil. If your starter solenoid has one small wire going to it(the one you forgot to put back on) instead of two small wires, then your switch has an added contact that takes 12 volt and puts it on the positive of the coil while starting to bypass the resistor. It also has another start contact that actually puts 12 volts to the starter relay wire(the one you forgot to put back on).
If you took these two seperate circuits(the start and the resistor bypass) and tied them all to one spot on one start switch, then the starter would run constantly, since when you released the start button, the run button would be feeding the resistor and then the coil positive, which would also run backwards to the common spot on your start switch, which would then run over and keep the starter solenoid pulled in all the time.
I warned you it was not simple.
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Appreciate it.
Well your right, I wired both circuits one for cranking the starter to the push button and one for the run position to the toggle. The second I hit the toggle switch the accessries came on and the starter began to turn....oops....so I disconnected the four wires I had used for the starter and instead wired the run position only, I put the hot wire to one side and the other three to the other, and as soon as I hit the switch its as if I turned the key forward.....which is what I wanted. I wired the other hot wire to the push button and then ran the other side to the red/light blue wire...and it rotates the motor.
Only thing I don't like is the starter can be engage at any time........but I have it hidden as well as the toggle so that should not be a problem. I plan to wire in a easily removable fuse so it can't be started regardless.
I had to remove the key cylinder so the steering wheel isn't locked but other than that its good to go. Appreciate your help.
I no longer use the ballast resistor, I wired up a home made one wire hei setup using a 4 pin gm module and tfi coil.
Well your right, I wired both circuits one for cranking the starter to the push button and one for the run position to the toggle. The second I hit the toggle switch the accessries came on and the starter began to turn....oops....so I disconnected the four wires I had used for the starter and instead wired the run position only, I put the hot wire to one side and the other three to the other, and as soon as I hit the switch its as if I turned the key forward.....which is what I wanted. I wired the other hot wire to the push button and then ran the other side to the red/light blue wire...and it rotates the motor.
Only thing I don't like is the starter can be engage at any time........but I have it hidden as well as the toggle so that should not be a problem. I plan to wire in a easily removable fuse so it can't be started regardless.
I had to remove the key cylinder so the steering wheel isn't locked but other than that its good to go. Appreciate your help.I no longer use the ballast resistor, I wired up a home made one wire hei setup using a 4 pin gm module and tfi coil.
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