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Yesterday, I was fixing my buddie's 89 F-250. The "Wait To Start" light comes on for 2 seconds and does not come on again until you shut the key off for a minute. I checked the relay on top of the solid state controller and I also checked the harness/ glowplugs. Any ideas on what could be wrong?
The solenoid on top of the solid state unit should have one side hot (12 volts) all the time. Check the other side (with a volt meter) to ground. It should register 12 volts for that 2 seconds that the light is on. If not, even if the solenoid is clicking on, it is defective. If that checks OK unplug the glow plugs and check both the glow plugs (continuity) to ground and the glow plug wires back to the same side of the solenoid that you checked for 12 volts. If you don't have continuity at the glow plugs they are burnt out. If you don't have continuity of the wires the wires, which are fuesable links, are burnt out. If the glow plugs check bad, they are bad. If they check good they still could be bad. They draw about 30 amps each so when the wait to start light comes on they should pull about 320 amps, plus or minus about 20 amps for the first click of the solenoid (use a clip-on ammeter on either cable leading to the solenoid atop the solid state unit). I hope this is of some help.
I double checked all the glow plugs, I got a book and check all the wiring, and the relay is functioning, but the wait to start light comes on for only 1 seconds at first and then will flash very fast for about 10 seconds. The glow plugs are not getting hot enough to fire the engine. Then I was and idiot and used starting fluid the get it out of my garage, and now there is a popping noise in the intake manifold. What else could possibly go wrong?
The 7.3 gp system is totally different than the 6.9, At least I can fix the 6.9 gp system.
The starting fluid probably blew the end off one of the glow plugs and it is stuck between the valve and seat causing the poping noise (just a guess). Or, you could have bent a pushrod. The solid state units rarely go bad but it is not unheard of. See if you can borrow another controller from another truck. Also, you may have continuity to ground through the glow plugs and they still be burned out. If the glow plugs have a lot of miles I'd replace them as a matter of maintenance and start from there.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 06-Apr-01 AT 01:14 AM (EST)[/font][p]My dad had an '88 and an '89 250 w/ the 7.3L in it. We had to replace the control module on both at least once. He was having the same problem w/ the Wait to Start light going off right away. After we replaced a couple bad glow plugs and the control module it started great. The Wait to Start light should stay on about 10 seconds and then you'll hear the solenoid clicking. As far as the popping noise, I agree it could very well be something caught in the valve, or a bent pushrod from the explosion. I wish you the best of luck.