Spring bolt design
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Valley Center, CA
Spring bolt design
I am reworking my rear leaf springs and adding the plastic anti-squeak lining on my 54 f100. There are four 3/8" bolts approx. 3" long that go across the top of the springs through the U shaped portion that serves to keep the springs aligned on each side. I was going to replace the original bolts with new just for appearance's sake. However, upon closer examination, the old units were not just normal bolts. They are thinner than a bolt except for a slight shoulder by the head and of course the threaded portion sticking through the other side. Is this thinness necessary? Or can I just use regualr bolts without causing excessive wear? Signed paranoid john in Antelope.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Iowa
John
I believe they have lock nuts on them. Don't crush crush the U channel up against the springs. They are just there to keep the leaves from squirming around.
'fenders
"Ever vigilant in my duty to share wisdom with the unappreciative masses"
I believe they have lock nuts on them. Don't crush crush the U channel up against the springs. They are just there to keep the leaves from squirming around.
'fenders
"Ever vigilant in my duty to share wisdom with the unappreciative masses"
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Iowa
I'd use grade 8 if I was going to change them. Make sure they are close to the same diameter of the U channel holes to avoid any rattle on rough terrain. You shouldn't have any problems. Use locknuts though, or they are likely to work loose.
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From: S.C.
When I rebuilt my springs I use grade-8 3/8 bolts I snug them enough not to bend the "U" brackets then tacked the ends with a welder to hold them in place. The originals on my 55 were also tack welded on the ends.
Jaye
Jaye
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Valley Center, CA
Thanks guys, I put them in last night. Because of the additional height created when I put in the plastic liners, the bolts did not want to go in, so I had to grind off 1/16". I used a small brush to paint the raw metal to keep it from rusting. I'll use lock washer to make sure they stay put. I'm almost ready to go cruisn except for the rain outside
Thanks again, John 
Thanks again, John
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Joined: Dec 2003
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John,
I am curious to know what type of lock washer you are using. I work for a fastener supplier in the technical department, and it has been proven through testing that using the "split" type lock washer is nearly ineffective on bolts of grades 5 and 8. It is highly recommended that you use a lock nut. If you have any questions let me know.
I am curious to know what type of lock washer you are using. I work for a fastener supplier in the technical department, and it has been proven through testing that using the "split" type lock washer is nearly ineffective on bolts of grades 5 and 8. It is highly recommended that you use a lock nut. If you have any questions let me know.
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From: Valley Center, CA
Dear Frosty. The stock setup had no lockwashers at all. I presume that they were being held in place by the tension of the U-shaped piece of metal the bolts were compressing! I am using the type of lockwashers with the plastic impregnated in the top third. I don't know the official name but they look like an acorn nut with a hole in the top. 
I think that between the tension of the flex piece and the lock nut, it should stay put. What do you think?? Aslo, let me ask you another question. I know we are always talking about the importance of using grade 8 bolts in heavy duty work. How about grade 8 nuts? Is there much of an improvement between a regular nut and a grade-8? Most hardware stores only have the grade-8 bolts, not the nuts though. Thanks, John
I think that between the tension of the flex piece and the lock nut, it should stay put. What do you think?? Aslo, let me ask you another question. I know we are always talking about the importance of using grade 8 bolts in heavy duty work. How about grade 8 nuts? Is there much of an improvement between a regular nut and a grade-8? Most hardware stores only have the grade-8 bolts, not the nuts though. Thanks, John
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John, from what you are discribing, it sounds like what you are using is a nylon insert lock nut. Does it have threads? You say it's a lockwasher then you compair it to a acorn nut. Sorry, just trying to get the facts straight. In regard to your other question, yes, it is very important to use hardware of the same grades (inch) or classes (metric) together. Using a nut of a lower grade will cause the threads to deform more depending on the load that is put on it. Also the nut will dilate (spread out) more because the threads on the bolt will not give as easily. Having the threads on the nut strip out slowly is not good as it can happen while going down the road at 70.
If you tighten it to much while using like grades the bolt will break during installation, or shortly there after, so you will know because the bolts will be sitting in your driveway. Much better that way. Hope this helps, not just you but everyone else as well.
If you tighten it to much while using like grades the bolt will break during installation, or shortly there after, so you will know because the bolts will be sitting in your driveway. Much better that way. Hope this helps, not just you but everyone else as well.
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John, I hate to keep telling you that you are using the wrong stuff, but
, nylon is recommended in most applications over the all-metal lock nut, however, it has a tendancy to absorb water and can become brittle, and the nylon can eventually break rendering the locking feature useless. You would be best suited to use the all-metal.
, nylon is recommended in most applications over the all-metal lock nut, however, it has a tendancy to absorb water and can become brittle, and the nylon can eventually break rendering the locking feature useless. You would be best suited to use the all-metal.
