Newly Joined
#16
05-04-2024, 02:03 PM
Show her this picture and tell her this is what yours could be with a little elbow grease. Just throwing this out there but if you want to get rid of the single crossover exhaust and put on duals, I have a set of Red's headers I would let you have all you would need to do is pay shipping from Montana.
#21
05-05-2024, 02:08 PM
A single master cylinder is one that has only one reservoir for all 4 brakes. A dual has two reservoirs. One for front one for back brakes. The single style worked fine for decades until the federal government mandated dual in about 1967. I put a ton of money into my restoration. I would put my single reservoir non power brakes up against anything on the road for safety. I do however have a right leg that is 3 times bigger than my left leg. Bottom line is what is your intention for this pickup? Do you want it to be as close to the way it was in 1964 or do you want to make it as good as a pickup you can buy on the lot today? If you want to stay close to original post the warranty plate that is located on the drivers door and someone will decode it for you the way it came from the factory right down to the original color of the seat. I have owned my 64 since about 1980 and have touched every part of it. I am still learning to this day things about it from people on here that have way more knowledge than me on these pickups. So don't be afraid to ask questions. Remember the only dumb question is the one you do not ask.
Well I guess it is but more will it stop if a brake line or wheel cly should fail.
With a single master you loose 1 line ANY WHERE in the system you have NO BRAKES!
With a dual master you loose 1 line ANY WHERE in the system you still have HALF a SYSTEM for stopping.
Yes the pedal may go almost to the floor but it will stop.
A single goes to the floor and it will not stop!
Oh have you ever tried to stop with the Ebrake?
If it even works it dose not stop a rolling car or truck vary good.
I hated moving my dads 65 C10 around in the small yard with a single master and everything was new.
Unless this was a 100 point show car / truck I do not see a place for a single master on anything.
If you can not tell I dont like single masters
BTW nice looking truck also.
Dave ----
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#22
05-05-2024, 02:29 PM
There is a reason the gov. mandated dual masters and it has nothing to do with how well either stops.
Well I guess it is but more will it stop if a brake line or wheel cly should fail.
With a single master you loose 1 line ANY WHERE in the system you have NO BRAKES!
With a dual master you loose 1 line ANY WHERE in the system you still have HALF a SYSTEM for stopping.
Yes the pedal may go almost to the floor but it will stop.
A single goes to the floor and it will not stop!
Oh have you ever tried to stop with the Ebrake?
If it even works it dose not stop a rolling car or truck vary good.
I hated moving my dads 65 C10 around in the small yard with a single master and everything was new.
Unless this was a 100 point show car / truck I do not see a place for a single master on anything.
If you can not tell I dont like single masters
BTW nice looking truck also.
Dave ----
Well I guess it is but more will it stop if a brake line or wheel cly should fail.
With a single master you loose 1 line ANY WHERE in the system you have NO BRAKES!
With a dual master you loose 1 line ANY WHERE in the system you still have HALF a SYSTEM for stopping.
Yes the pedal may go almost to the floor but it will stop.
A single goes to the floor and it will not stop!
Oh have you ever tried to stop with the Ebrake?
If it even works it dose not stop a rolling car or truck vary good.
I hated moving my dads 65 C10 around in the small yard with a single master and everything was new.
Unless this was a 100 point show car / truck I do not see a place for a single master on anything.
If you can not tell I dont like single masters
BTW nice looking truck also.
Dave ----
#23
05-05-2024, 03:21 PM
You will have to make some changes to the lines as right now you have 1 line out of the master to all 4 wheels.
The dual has 1 part (large part) to the front brakes and the 2nd (small part) to the rear brakes.
If you have drums all around the dual master will have 2 small fluid chambers.
Just get the master that matches the brakes your truck has.
If you have disc / drum you should run a purportioning valve it helps balance the front / rear pressure so 1 side will not lock out before the other.
The make adjustable ones you can add and might be a better option to balance the system.
Also note purportioning valves are a cobo valve. They also have a switch so when 1 side looses pressure a valve moves and turns on a dash light telling you you have a brake issue ..... like the pedal going to the floor was not enough!!!!
I dont know if there are kits to change from a single to dual master but if not some metal brake line and fittings it cant be that hard to do.
I have changed a few cars from drum to disc up front and added a line lock for drag racing but never single to dual master but again cant be that hard.
Now this single to dual master can lead you down a rabbit hole
Do you just replace the master and change the lines
or
up grade to disc up front (I dont see the need if the system is in good shape. I got a small body car with a factory v8 that was 4 wheel drum non-power from the factory)
or
Also add power brakes with the dual and disc being the system is open
That drag car I removed the power brake booster and had to swap pedals.
My 81 F100 I added power from a parts truck and had to swap pedals.
Yes power and non-power pedals are different where the pin for the master rods connect.
I know this is a lot thrown at you but if you look your brake system over good before driving and it is in good shape you dont have to do anything for a bit.
Figure what you want to do for the upgrade and gather the needed parts and when you got them all do the swap.
Dave ----
The dual has 1 part (large part) to the front brakes and the 2nd (small part) to the rear brakes.
If you have drums all around the dual master will have 2 small fluid chambers.
Just get the master that matches the brakes your truck has.
If you have disc / drum you should run a purportioning valve it helps balance the front / rear pressure so 1 side will not lock out before the other.
The make adjustable ones you can add and might be a better option to balance the system.
Also note purportioning valves are a cobo valve. They also have a switch so when 1 side looses pressure a valve moves and turns on a dash light telling you you have a brake issue ..... like the pedal going to the floor was not enough!!!!
I dont know if there are kits to change from a single to dual master but if not some metal brake line and fittings it cant be that hard to do.
I have changed a few cars from drum to disc up front and added a line lock for drag racing but never single to dual master but again cant be that hard.
Now this single to dual master can lead you down a rabbit hole
Do you just replace the master and change the lines
or
up grade to disc up front (I dont see the need if the system is in good shape. I got a small body car with a factory v8 that was 4 wheel drum non-power from the factory)
or
Also add power brakes with the dual and disc being the system is open
That drag car I removed the power brake booster and had to swap pedals.
My 81 F100 I added power from a parts truck and had to swap pedals.
Yes power and non-power pedals are different where the pin for the master rods connect.
I know this is a lot thrown at you but if you look your brake system over good before driving and it is in good shape you dont have to do anything for a bit.
Figure what you want to do for the upgrade and gather the needed parts and when you got them all do the swap.
Dave ----
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#24
05-05-2024, 04:50 PM
Fleet Mechanic
There is a reason the gov. mandated dual masters and it has nothing to do with how well either stops.
Well I guess it is but more will it stop if a brake line or wheel cly should fail.
With a single master you loose 1 line ANY WHERE in the system you have NO BRAKES!
With a dual master you loose 1 line ANY WHERE in the system you still have HALF a SYSTEM for stopping.
Yes the pedal may go almost to the floor but it will stop.
A single goes to the floor and it will not stop!
Oh have you ever tried to stop with the Ebrake?
If it even works it dose not stop a rolling car or truck vary good.
I hated moving my dads 65 C10 around in the small yard with a single master and everything was new.
Unless this was a 100 point show car / truck I do not see a place for a single master on anything.
If you can not tell I dont like single masters
BTW nice looking truck also.
Dave ----
Well I guess it is but more will it stop if a brake line or wheel cly should fail.
With a single master you loose 1 line ANY WHERE in the system you have NO BRAKES!
With a dual master you loose 1 line ANY WHERE in the system you still have HALF a SYSTEM for stopping.
Yes the pedal may go almost to the floor but it will stop.
A single goes to the floor and it will not stop!
Oh have you ever tried to stop with the Ebrake?
If it even works it dose not stop a rolling car or truck vary good.
I hated moving my dads 65 C10 around in the small yard with a single master and everything was new.
Unless this was a 100 point show car / truck I do not see a place for a single master on anything.
If you can not tell I dont like single masters
BTW nice looking truck also.
Dave ----
The following 3 users liked this post by skidoorulz:
#25
05-06-2024, 09:49 AM
Bought a 7" booster kit from these guys. Read Pirate Jack Hot Rod Restoration Blog Posts (went 7" instead of 8" cause I'm not doing anything crazy. just want to be able to stop. Also my current drum brakes work quite well, just want the safety factor of a dual cylinder)
Install video here to go with it.
(this guy has a few good videos for 1966 f100.
Install video here to go with it.
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#26
05-06-2024, 12:02 PM
I totally agree with skidoorulz, I've had over a dozen 50's and 60's cars that had single masters. The only brake fail I ever had was on a 55 Olds and that was because I was a 16-year-old trying to keep a $50 car running with no money and no parts. The front shoes were down to the metal, and one finally popped the wheel cyl. I drove it with only the E brake for a week until I could scrap up the money to fix it. And if you install a dual master without a brake warning light you could eventually be driving around with only the front or rear brakes and not know it.
And never ever put chevy parts on an F100.
And never ever put chevy parts on an F100.
The following 2 users liked this post by Crop Duster:
#27
05-06-2024, 01:02 PM
#28
05-06-2024, 01:17 PM
ya only really need ignition to get the engine running and even that can be bypassed around the ignition switch (ask me how I know this...).
my speedo is the only original thing that works on mine. and I had to install a new cable. no fuel/oil/temp. the blinkers work as of last week cause I needed to pass inspection. I even managed to get the panel lights to blink with the blinkers.
a set of aftermarket gauges will make it easy for you.
my speedo is the only original thing that works on mine. and I had to install a new cable. no fuel/oil/temp. the blinkers work as of last week cause I needed to pass inspection. I even managed to get the panel lights to blink with the blinkers.
a set of aftermarket gauges will make it easy for you.
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#29
05-06-2024, 02:29 PM
Fleet Mechanic
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#30
05-06-2024, 03:04 PM