I believe I have a dead fuel pump. My '04 will crank just fine and everything is like it should be except it won't start. I hear the relays clicking but the pump doesn't charge the fuel line. I've tried shooting starting fluid into the throttle body but I suspect the computer doesn't fire the ignition if there isn't any pressure.

What is a good brand pump to use? My truck has right at 200,000 miles so the pump has probably died. It had to do it right after I filled up too. I have about 7/8 of a tank of fuel to drain or drop. I'll probably use a transmission jack to lower it but I don't want to be wasting fuel.

Probably going to get a pump off Fleabay as they run between $40 and $150. The local stores want $350-$500 for a pump. Any brands to avoid? I've heard bad things about Delphi pumps on other makes. The old stuff I'm used to working on are easy. These new fangled jobs are not service friendly.

 

I use Bosch and they seem to hold up well. Both Bosch and Delphi have a lifetime warranty if that matters.

2004 Expedition Fuel Pump Assmblies at Rock Auto








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Several friends who still do repairs have said they have had Delphi pumps come back as a failure. I've never had any issues with them but I rarely work on late model stuff any more. I'll see if I can source a Bosch pump from my regular places.

 

Yeah I can believe it. The last Delphi MAF I got was made in China too. I've never had a problem with a Bosch unit. Last one I installed was still made in USA.

Bosch 67223 Expedition Fuel Pump on Amazon

Bosch 67223 Expedition Fuel Pump on Amazon

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As far as I know, the ignition will still make spark if there is no fuel pressure. How do you know there is no fuel pressure? Also, if there is no fuel pressure, instead of a bad pump it could be a bad fuel pump relay, or a blown fuse.

 

The fuse box (Smart Junction Box) has been rebuilt. It got so hot it partially melted.




The service that rebuilt it said the cutting in and out could have damaged the pump. I've eliminated everything else as I had just filled the tank before it quit running. I now have a 30 gallon tank that is 7/8 full. I have a new pump and pressure gauge set on order and should be here in the next day or so. My old gauge doesn't have all the fittings for newer vehicles. At 30 years old, it works but can be better.

There isn't any pressure in the fuel system and I don't hear it charge the line. It's possible I just have a plugged fuel filter so a new one is going in, but I doubt it. I'v tried to siphon the fuel out but can't get past internal baffles. I'm not looking forward to dropping a fuel tank with 200 pounds of fuel in it. I'll probably use a transmission jack to lower it. I've done worse jobs, but I'm old and getting lazy, not to mention health issues.

 

The rain held off and I picked up a new fuel filter . This is a pretty easy vehicle to replace the filter so I slapped it in. The fuel that bled out looked pretty clean. Once done, I turned the key on and didn't hear the pump charge. Evidently this is one of the frequencies I no longer hear and undoing the front clip on the new filter released a heavy charge of fuel. Plenty of pressure in that line. (Glad I wear safety glasses when fooling with pressurized fuel. Wear yours!)

I hooked one of my OBD scanners up to check for any new codes.One scanner won't communicate but my basic Bosch works just fine. The only thing I see that might be anomalous is the fuel system. It's reading open on fuel system one. I don't know if it's supposed to say that or not. Hopefully my new gauge set will be here soon. I may have a fuel system problem but my pump is good.

 

That is good news, I did not envy you having to drop a full fuel tank.

 

I was't looking forward to it. I worked on Dodge Ramcharger with an extended range tank that held 60 gallons of fuel once. I had to drop that puppy and it wasn't fun. That's when I started using transmission jacks to lower fuel tanks. Rule of thumb weights for liquids from my logistics days is 8 pounds per gallon for water. 7 1/2 pounds for diesel and 7 for gasoline. That's why deep submersibles use a tank full of diesel as an upper ballast chamber. It's lighter than water but won't compress much.

I'm wondering if my anti-theft system has gotten tripped though. I haven't really paid attention when cranking. It blinks from time to time like other cars with anti-theft systems I've had. I think it may blink quickly when cranking. After the rain ends tomorrow I will check that.

Anybody got an idea, if it is the anti-theft system, on how to reset it? I've got three keys, the original and two copies the lock smith made, and they all used to work. None do now.

 

That's a little good news anyway. Do you have a laptop and the ForScan app ? In ForScan you can go into the IC module and read the DTC codes for the key you have inserted in the ignition switch. That will tell you if the security module can read the key's transponder and if it's acceptable or registered with the vehicle. If the key is good and already programmed to the vehicle it won't return any DTC codes against the key. Ford dealers and most locksmiths use the Strattech brand key only.

ForScan Forum PATS Key Programming

 

I have three operable lap tops. A small one I use to read digital copies of service manuals is small enough to use when working on something. I don't have Forscan. I'm not happy with late model vehicle requiring computers to work on. What all will I need in the way of hardware if I download the app? How much is the app? I don't plan on buying any more Fords this new, but my Mazda might have a legacy program. Mazda and Ford went their separate ways before mine was built but computer programs are always being updated, not made from scratch. I think Ford and Mazda split around 2010 or so. My CX-5 is a 2016.

I found a couple of things on resetting the theft system and will try them tomorrow. It's dark and raining right now. At least I have a plan of procedure now.