You need to jump it at the relay as recommended so you can test that portion of the circuit. Taking ill-defined shortcuts usually leads to confusion and wasted time and money.

 

I plan on fixing all the codes, however first I need to see if I can get the ac working. If I can then I'll be selling my Jeep Wrangler to make the f150 my daily driver. If not I'll be selling the f150. I'm too old for the Texas heat.

 

I'm headed out to check that now. It's actually easier to jump at the relay rather than the way I did. I don't consider it a shortcut, I had already done it at the compressor before the instruction and thought it was a "just as good" kinda test.

 

Cannot over-emphasize that the condition(s) that are causing the fault code(s) *may* be what is preventing A/C operation. Without the actual fault codes, it is impossible to tell you whether you need to address the fault codes first or if you can fix the A/C first and leave the codes for later.

 

Ok so I jumped across the pins on the relay and got nothing.

 

So with ac on and truck running jumping the pins didnt activate the compressor. So I got the test light and with the relay unplugged Theres power on one pin only, Same with it plugged in and checked from back of the relay box. So I went to the fuses box and check for power at fuse 11. Good on both sides of fuse. I pulled the fuse and got power on the left side but on the right side nothing. so i got deeper in the dirty floor with a good light and can see that the pins for the fuse have been pushed. the left just back and down. the right one Im not sure, I can't even see it. think we found the culprit. Thank you guys for helping me get this far. I have to leave for an appointment now, but don't have any idea how i'm gonna get to that thing. It has to be pretty deep in there. I tried using a small fused jumper wire pushed in there to try to make contact with no luck.

 

Which pins? Include specific details so your testing can be followed along with. If it was 3-5, then that was the correct test.

Verify you have power to relay socket pin 3. If so,measure resistance between relay socket pin 5 and ground. Should be a couple of ohms (3-5) as you'd be measuring from the socket pin to ground through the clutch coil. If it measures open-circuited, measure resistance of the wire between pin 5 and the GY-WT wire at the clutch coil connector. Based on previous results, you'll likely find that circuit is the problem.

 

At the same time you are jumpering relay pins monitor voltage there to make sure voltage is not collapsing . A test light is load so it its a better indicator . A voltmeter draws no load so it will read some random stuff at times.
You are probably going to have to flip that fuse box over to see if the wires of that color are intact or are the pins bad . Sometimes they lose their tension and can be tightened up carefully . Jumper it from the bottom . If you cant fix it go to the junk yard for a like item .

 

I know you're right about that. But I'm looking at the fuse box at fuse 11 and there is nothing there for it to contact so it's not sending power to the relay. Can't find a list of codes that might affect powering the ac. They don't give a list in the factory service manual. They only give a mention. And I don't wanna spend the time or money if im not keeping the truck. So I'm gonna keep trying for now.

 

Wth engine off-no power at either pin in relay receptical.
With engine running and relay removed-power on pin 2 RD/YE
With engine running relay installed-probed from back of box-power on pin 2 RD/YE
The above tests were done with test light
I again jumped across from pin 3 PK/LB To pin 5GY/WH and nothing happened because neither pin has power coming to it.

There is no power to pin 3.
I measured resistance from pin 5 and battery ground via dvom and set on 200 ohms and got a reading of 6.7

Didn't measure from pin 5 to clutch coil since there was no open. Also I can still apply power to that connector and the coil is working.

Fuse 11 sends power to pin 3 PK/LB. Without fuse 11 there will not be any power to the relay nor to pin 5 or the coil. This is how I understand things.

 

If F11 was not passing power, you would not have been able to measure battery power at relay pin 3. Two weeks ago, you said you measured power there.

 

So I fought the fuse box and got it all disconnected and out of the truck.
I got the pics out of order and can change them. So look at them in this order: 2, 3, 1, 4.

The inside part of the box. Notice the matching corrosion on the connector on the inside.

Fuse box disconnected and removed without breaking any connectors.

Back off of the fuse box. Notice the green where the connector passes through.

Then look down a little further. I don't know if that's the circuit for the ac or the cause of my evap codes or what, but something is fried. Hopefully it didn't get a chance to transfer to the pcm before loosing power. Anybody know if all these yr model trucks have the same box or is this specific kinda like the pcm?I'm going to try to trace this burn to pin/circuit to have a better Understanding of what's wrong. Unfortunately I have to leave now. I've got some place I'm supposed to be.

 

Youre right. But I don't know why or how it passed. I guess the fuse was just barely touching the connector or something. Or maybe I'm the one that pushed it back in the box when I was taking it in and out

Edit:
I forgot about this. I realized later but too late to tell on myself, when I was doing those tests I was connected to the power instead of the ground. So all those teat results that day were opposite. I think.

 

I bought this truck from an oilfield construction company about 7 years ago for my husband. He's not the type of person to try to fix things. He just drove it like it was. Other than the coils. There were three or 4 bad when we drove it home.

They sold it really cheap. I always wondered why because they had a full time mechanic shop on their property next to the office. One of the mounting location ears was broken off. They probably knew this was bad or suspected the PCm and didn't want to mess with it.

 

I went to the every junk yard within an hour of me yesterday and there was no fuse box with the same configuration as my truck. The part number I need is 7L3B-14A067-BA. If anybody has one you would sell let me know. I did find one very close with part number 7L3B-14A067-FA. I went ahead and grabbed it. I compared it to the old one and saw that it was missing pins for a few things, nothing major. Just stuff electric windows, door locks, accessory delay, and the radio. So I went ahead and installed it to see if it would solve my problem with the air conditioner. Low and behold, as soon as I cranked the truck it was blowing ice cold air. I will need to reclaim the refrigerant and start over so I get the right amount in the system, but that's no problem. I'm just glad to know what the problem was. As soon as I can get the correct fuse box I'll start working on the CEL codes and get everything fixed the right way. First I need to figure out where the water -is coming from that shorted the fuse box. The codes I have are P04446-ff, P0446-P, U2023-6F, B1596-20, c1230-E0, and RCM error. The error is caused by the fuse box difference, it wasn't there before. I don't know what the letters/numbers mean after the code, but forscan shows them.

Thanks to everybody that helped me get to this point!