Just simply unplug the spout and see if spark returns to rule the PCM out. If spark returns and still no start then test the ICM. Here is a good test procedure.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-1

 

I did unplug the spout, truck didn’t start. I also pulled the number 5 spark plug wire, not even a little shock to my finger, tried grousing it too, no spark.

 

OK test the ICM https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-1

The distributor changing is of concern. If the ICM is OK then we should maybe check the gear on the distributor. Did you have a timing light when you set timing?

 

yes I have a xenon timing light, I got the distributor dialed in and running good, I checked the gear on the distributor and it’s fine, it’s still secured by the rolling pin. I’m going to run a few tests on that ICM from that link you sent me, and also replace that ICM with a known good spare just to see if it’ll run.

 

OK your ICM should be black not grey.

 

all my ICM’s are grey, it’s a distributor mounted ICM
the one for my old distributor was grey, a new one I have laying around is grey, and the one in there is gray too. What was that thing you mentioned earlier about the PCM? If the spout is unplugged and spark returns it could be the IDM or the PCM?

 

MY bad. I looked at post 2 for fuel pressure and saw a 1994 truck was posted. Here is the correct procedure for your distributor mounted ICM.

https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-1

 

Here is a coil test if the ICM test good. https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/fo...gnition-coil-1

 

I tested the power circuit and ground circuit, all is well, will continue update you later when i do more tests, I cant perform the last two tests, I had the tools to do this job at one point but I left them at home 300 miles away, shoulda woulda coulda brought them with me. Ill see if I can make an LED kit work and get back to you.

 

When you remove the spout, the PCM is basically disconnected. If a bad PCM was the no spark problem, removing the spout would allow spark. This is why you remove the spout to set Base timing. When you put the spout back in the PCM is reactivated and adjust timing based on its programs.

 

Did you happen to check to make sure the roll pin that holds the distributor gear to the shaft has not sheared?

 

yes I checked had that happen before, one of the first things I checked when I found I had no spark

 

Well it’s gotten too dark and cold out to continue working, so I’ll pick up where I left off tmrrw. I do have some concerns with the grounding test for the ICM, I tested voltage through the ground wire (pin6) to positive battery terminal, and got 7volts, need 10-12v. Then I remember I had left the Key in the on position so I turned it off and checked the ground circuit again, 12v. Doesn’t mention in the testing section for test 2 grounding circuit if the key needs to be left in the on or off position for test 2. Would appreciate some clarification

 

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I tested the ignition coil before finishing the ICM tests, I am getting 12v to the IC, and I am getting a switching signal (verified by an LED test light), so that concludes the ICM and PIP are transmitting a signal, but the ignition coil is not firing. Next course of action would be to replace the ignition coil. I did replace the ignition coil about 15months ago with an NGK I bought on rockauto. Would not expect the IC to be the failure point. I will get back to you guys with results after replacing the IC.