Battery problems
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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Battery problems
On 3rd battery, and finally realized the battery is not the problem. Have to keep jumping off truck to get it started. Doesn't take much to jump it off and it keeps running, but usually has to be jumped off again, the first or second start after that.
Here's what's new - alternator, battery, solenoid, starter cable, battery cables, voltage regulator.
Anyone have any idea what the problem may be?
Here's what's new - alternator, battery, solenoid, starter cable, battery cables, voltage regulator.
Anyone have any idea what the problem may be?
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,393
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From: Thomson, GA
It could be a drain with the key off. I *think* the test for this is to pull the ground terminal and put a volt meter between the post and terminal. It should read 0 volts. If it doesn't, pull fuses one at a time untill it reads 0. This will help narrow down the circut that is causing the drain. Good luck, and let us know what happens.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 609
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From: Watauga TEXAS
Make sure your battery is fully charged. Then remove the NEG battery cable from the battery and connect a test light to the cable end. Then poke the NEG battery terminal with the test light. If the test light shines brightly, you have something drawing current when everything should be off. Make sure your door is closed and everything is turned off.
If it lights, start pulling your fuses out one at a time until the light goes out. When you pull the fuse that makes the light go out, that is the circuit you need to check for a short. Remember, if you have the door open while pulling fuses, jam something in the door to keep the light switch from turning on your dome light.
Joe
If it lights, start pulling your fuses out one at a time until the light goes out. When you pull the fuse that makes the light go out, that is the circuit you need to check for a short. Remember, if you have the door open while pulling fuses, jam something in the door to keep the light switch from turning on your dome light.
Joe
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: BC, Canada
I've seen quite a few remanufactured alternators come out of the box with a bad diode. Of course, because it's been replaced it gets overlooked and is usually not suspect because the alternator continues to charge the battery.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,209
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From: Black Hills of SD
Use the test light as mentioned before. You see by unhooking the negative cable and placing a test ligh between the battery cable end and the battery neg. post you are completing the cirruit with the test light. The light only lights up if there is a complete circuit like say the dome light is on. That is why you pull the fuses one by one and check to see if the test light went out which would indicate that you no longer have a circuit or in other words you have removed the object that was drawing juice. If it goes out when you unplug the voltage regulator then you have isolated the problem to the regulator or possibly the alternator itself. It all sounds more complicated than it really is.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 602
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From: Huntersville
I'm not good with the above tests so I can't offer any help with those but as a previous poster said about the (new) alternator I agree.
If a diode is bad in the alternator it will usually test good at the auto store. It will charge your battery when the truck is running. But as soon as you cut your truck off it will start allowing the battery to drain.
Been there, done that.
If there is a good way to isolate the alternator to confirm it as the draw that ought to show it
Clint
If a diode is bad in the alternator it will usually test good at the auto store. It will charge your battery when the truck is running. But as soon as you cut your truck off it will start allowing the battery to drain.
Been there, done that.
If there is a good way to isolate the alternator to confirm it as the draw that ought to show it
Clint
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
Because the connector hangs upside down on most Fords for the voltage regulator, it is not uncommon for a wire to be pushed out of the harness when you put in the voltage regulator. Also, the harness connectors can go bad. They sell replacements for $12-$18 at Autozone and NAPA that you slice into your old harness. I usually strain relief my vehicles by wrapping a tie arond the harness and then mounting it so the harness is pused into the voltage regulator. Then I wire tie the connector to the voltage regulator.
Check the connector at the alternator if you have the small plug in block kind. Then check for a connection between the alternator and voltage regulator. Then the alternator harness to the key on source (usually the ignition switch or starter relay)
Check the connector at the alternator if you have the small plug in block kind. Then check for a connection between the alternator and voltage regulator. Then the alternator harness to the key on source (usually the ignition switch or starter relay)
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: nevada
battery cables
Have you checked connections on ground(s)? Once had a corroded, rusty ground cable on block connection. Also have added second ground from battery to upper inner fender, and replaced woven ground strap to firewall. A little extra insurance.
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