V10 Full Exhaust - NEW TRUCK
#16
That's what I would do.
The first 3 months are relatively calm since they don't do much, but it gets more and more fun as all their systems come online. We are almost crawling now and I can't wait to go home from work and get to play and practice the crawling. Easily the best part of my day. Being around the wife isn't bad either
The first 3 months are relatively calm since they don't do much, but it gets more and more fun as all their systems come online. We are almost crawling now and I can't wait to go home from work and get to play and practice the crawling. Easily the best part of my day. Being around the wife isn't bad either
#17
Yea, yesterday was my first day back to work. There's a whole new appreciation for coming home at the end of the day. And yessir, I can tell you, I have a whole new love and respect for my wife. Some heroes wear capes, the rest are mothers!
Moments like this just make everything else in the world disappear...
Moments like this just make everything else in the world disappear...
#22
Update on the headers and exhaust...
Not happy with the sound from the Cherry Bomb Pro. There’s a significant drone at 1800 rpm, or cruising at 45-50 mph. Highway speeds are great but the mid range drone is awful.
Headers fit great. Definitely a different sound behind the firewall, but I can’t detect any leaks. I think it’s just the header sound.
Overall, I’m kinda let down. Just didn’t live up to my expectations.
So does anyone have any comments or suggestions?
Not happy with the sound from the Cherry Bomb Pro. There’s a significant drone at 1800 rpm, or cruising at 45-50 mph. Highway speeds are great but the mid range drone is awful.
Headers fit great. Definitely a different sound behind the firewall, but I can’t detect any leaks. I think it’s just the header sound.
Overall, I’m kinda let down. Just didn’t live up to my expectations.
So does anyone have any comments or suggestions?
#23
#24
#25
I would also suggest trying the areo turbine but 3030xl version, but I don’t know if it’s something I would want to hear everyday either as every v10 Ive heard in person sounded terrible but I would love to hear the 3030xl in person though, anyway All the regular 3030 sound clips sounded pretty raspy but the xl version that Tom has on his ex has a pretty good sound to it. The pervious owner of my truck put a different muffler on but it has no name so I Have no idea what it is but its nice and quite maybe just a bit louder than the factory looks like a gibson and is stainless steel but not one indenifying mark on it. Its also probably quiter than what you are looking for anyway.
Here is a link to his thread if you haven't seen it yet I think its the only v10 with the xl version of the muffler but his is a 2 valve so your still kinda of taking a shot in the dark. I swear some one on here had one on a black crew cab 3v pretty sure it was an 08-10 model but i couldn't find it.
Here is a link to his thread if you haven't seen it yet I think its the only v10 with the xl version of the muffler but his is a 2 valve so your still kinda of taking a shot in the dark. I swear some one on here had one on a black crew cab 3v pretty sure it was an 08-10 model but i couldn't find it.
#26
So the baby went down and I went outside to crawl around under my truck in the dark. Two things I’ve found. One I’m concerned about, one I’m not. First, the one I’m not...
This is a view from underneath, passenger side right beside the starter (red cover). The header melted the hub vacuum line where it runs over the frame. They’re going to fix this, I saw it at the shop this afternoon. Not a big deal though, my auto hubs don’t work anyway!
Now for the one I am worried about:
This is looking down from above on the drivers side. The oil dipstick tube has some sort of rubber/plastic coating on it that melted to the header tube. No oil leaking or anything. Just wondering if this is a big issue I need to address or just let it ride? Would it help to wrap the tube in that area with header wrap?
This is a view from underneath, passenger side right beside the starter (red cover). The header melted the hub vacuum line where it runs over the frame. They’re going to fix this, I saw it at the shop this afternoon. Not a big deal though, my auto hubs don’t work anyway!
Now for the one I am worried about:
This is looking down from above on the drivers side. The oil dipstick tube has some sort of rubber/plastic coating on it that melted to the header tube. No oil leaking or anything. Just wondering if this is a big issue I need to address or just let it ride? Would it help to wrap the tube in that area with header wrap?
#27
Here's a fun little update...
I talked to the guy at the shop about the dipstick tube. Apparently, they bent the tube either removing or reinstalling and used a sleeve and JB weld to fix the crimped section. I've always been very happy with this shop's work, but I'm not happy about this. The melted stuff is the JB weld.
I told them this was unacceptable. They are going to replace it with a new OEM tube and splice and re-run the melted vacuum line at no charge. This is why I typically do all my own work...this manifold stud/header install job was just a little larger in scope than I wanted to tackle with a newborn at home. As long as they fix it and fix it right, no harm done. Hopefully they can get the tube out without removing the headers again.
Moral of the story....don't screw with an engineer's truck. We will always check your work and call you on your BS.
I talked to the guy at the shop about the dipstick tube. Apparently, they bent the tube either removing or reinstalling and used a sleeve and JB weld to fix the crimped section. I've always been very happy with this shop's work, but I'm not happy about this. The melted stuff is the JB weld.
I told them this was unacceptable. They are going to replace it with a new OEM tube and splice and re-run the melted vacuum line at no charge. This is why I typically do all my own work...this manifold stud/header install job was just a little larger in scope than I wanted to tackle with a newborn at home. As long as they fix it and fix it right, no harm done. Hopefully they can get the tube out without removing the headers again.
Moral of the story....don't screw with an engineer's truck. We will always check your work and call you on your BS.
#28
#29
I’ve heard they can be painful.
I removed my air box this afternoon and covered the coolant hose near the front of the motor with TI heat wrap just for extra precaution. In doing so, I realized removing the oil tube should be easy with the air box out with no need to remove header. Little man is about to go to sleep so I may go see if I can get that tube loose. I have a new one already. I already looked, there’s no rust on my tube where it enters the block, best I can tell. Hopefully I have an easy one!
I removed my air box this afternoon and covered the coolant hose near the front of the motor with TI heat wrap just for extra precaution. In doing so, I realized removing the oil tube should be easy with the air box out with no need to remove header. Little man is about to go to sleep so I may go see if I can get that tube loose. I have a new one already. I already looked, there’s no rust on my tube where it enters the block, best I can tell. Hopefully I have an easy one!
#30
If nothing else, get in there with penetrating oil and get the o ring on the tube nice soaked. A couple heat cycles may be all you need to get that tube out if it is stubborn.
Also, given the nature of the tube you might want to change the oil afterwards. I know there is an oil filter, but I’d still be paranoid something gets in the oil that doesn’t belong there.
Also, given the nature of the tube you might want to change the oil afterwards. I know there is an oil filter, but I’d still be paranoid something gets in the oil that doesn’t belong there.