Getting the “Green Mill” running again 1974 F250
#16
Still won’t start!!!!!!!!!!
Today I put in a new starter relay (soleined) and new coil
no luck, the first time I tried it sort of cranked 3 spins but after that it only made that 1 loud click I noticed after trying to start 4 or 5 times the battery cables were hot is that normal?
so I guess I will change the starter next
any other help or suggestions would be appreciated
no luck, the first time I tried it sort of cranked 3 spins but after that it only made that 1 loud click I noticed after trying to start 4 or 5 times the battery cables were hot is that normal?
so I guess I will change the starter next
any other help or suggestions would be appreciated
#18
Got it to crank a few times but no start
the battery was smokin hot!
do you think I should try a jumpstart with my other truck?
#19
It's also not a bad idea to go ahead and just replace your battery cables too and CLEAN your ground connections! Do not buy the light gauge cheapie cables in the blister pack, buy good heavy gauge cables, well worth the additional cost.
Battery cables corrode from the inside out, they will look perfectly fine on the outside and be a corroded mess on the inside.
#21
Try turning it over with a breaker bar or large ratchet and a socket on the crank balancer bolt. It should be pretty easy to turn at some points, even with the plugs in, although it will be difficult when a cylinder is hitting TDC compression...
Or better yet, you can pull the spark plugs out and try turning it by hand.
Or better yet, you can pull the spark plugs out and try turning it by hand.
#22
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#28
Bad Gasoline?
i installed the rebuilt Holley 4 barrel carb yesterday. I took your advice and ran some gas by cranking the engine. This gas looks and smells bad! I’m planning to siphon out as much gas as I can tomorrow and then put in some new gas. I installed the new stock metal gas filter but I’m going to add another clear one so I can watch it and change if necessary
i really don’t want to drop the tank and clean/recondition if I don’t have to. What do you think?
i really don’t want to drop the tank and clean/recondition if I don’t have to. What do you think?
#29
Definitely need to drain/siphon the fuel and start fresh. As long as there was some fuel in the tank while it sat for 15 years the tank should be alright, I'd worry if it had been dry. Looking at the condition of the fuel you drain should give you an indication if you need to flush the tank.
#30
Fuel Pump Finally Replaced
This job was a lot tougher then I thought. I could only access the bolts from the bottom without taking off the compressor and P/s. I got the old carter pump off and ordered a replacement, airtex. There is no way I could get the top right bolt in. The pump housing is larger then the old one and it’s imposible to get a wrench on it or even finger start. I returned it and ordered the replacement Carter Fuel pump. Only slightly better, after hours of maneuvering I finally got it in.
next to blow out the gas lines from the tank, install a extra fuel filter Clear, and try and start it up.
i have the Holley 4 barrel carb, are they pretty straightforward to tune?
Thanks All!
next to blow out the gas lines from the tank, install a extra fuel filter Clear, and try and start it up.
i have the Holley 4 barrel carb, are they pretty straightforward to tune?
Thanks All!