I recently bought the sinister oil cover so that I can run oem oil filter. Also, I went back to factory tune for a bit. I noticed it was cycling the vanes all the time. Under steady light throttle, you could hear and see the boost go up a pound or two and back down again for no reason. I googled it and some one said it needed idle time to learn. I let it sit for 20 minutes or so and it runs like a champ again. I hope this helps some one.

 

So I'm putting together a list of the parts I want/ need and I was looking for some input on my selections. I'm looking to make 650whp/1000wtq on a race tune but be a I need it to be a capable towing setup with a tow tune on. I don't plan on towing in high altitude areas but I will encounter hills and be towing heavy loads.

KC Turbo $1690
https://www.warrendiesel.com/products/kc-6-0-kc-6-0-kc-6-0-stage2-turbo

175/75 Warren Injectors $1372.50
https://www.warrendiesel.com/products/wdi-6-0-175cc-injectors?variant=11990360195114

Regulated fuel return $495
https://www.xtremediesel.com/xdp-60l-regulated-return-fuel-system-xd206

HPOP $640
https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-16390-bosch-hp032x-high-pressure-oil-pump-hpop-03-04-60l-ford-powerstroke.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjwjIHeBRAnEiwAhYT2hyU wGXk-heJ0BaUmTuV1DLOhWoB2HF4uIr26BRFs0ouZuJU_8nygDRoCRU 0QAvD_BwE

Oil cooler $129
https://www.xtremediesel.com/xdp-60l-heavy-duty-oil-cooler-xd212?gclid=CjwKCAjwjIHeBRAnEiwAhYT2h3pKqFRm8ypGCl WMrkDk5055p2vLoC4gxBirgtNjB70N52z0zl2h9hoCSDUQAvD_ BwE

So I'll likely do the head studs because I'll be that deep anyway. The couple of questions I have;

1.) They offer "premium Injectors" for significantly more money. Is it worth it?

​​​​​2.) Are the 175/75 KC stage 2 a good combo for towing or would a different size be better for maintaining lower egts?

3.) I have read that the standard oil cooler works well enough for most applications but, with heavy towing, should I be looking to relocating? Also, I will be buying the oil cooler flush kit.

​​​​​​Any input/ suggestions are welcome! Thank you

 

See in red.

 

Wrong. And there is not a chat board, diesel mechanic who is familiar, or a 6.0 owner that can say that. The headgasket problems in the 6.0 have little to nothing to do with the coolant. It's a crappy design where some bean counter at Ford, (or International, or Cat, or one of the other players in this Flo Progressive bundled engine) decided that 4 head studs on each cylinder was enough. The stock headgaskets will barely hold with OEM tuning, which BTW, was continuously dumbed down to reduce power early on when the ugly truth began to surface. You tune without studding, and increase cylinder pressure and you are going to squeeze out a gasket. Not if, but when.
Coolant problems manifest in the oil cooler and EGR cooler, not headgaskets.
Now that is not to say that Ford made a good choice with the coolant. Ford has a long history of choosing poorly the various fluids needed to keep moving things alive. The debate over Mercon SP or LV, Is Mercon OK, or should we use Mercon V? Oh we back-spec'ed that, wait, no we didn't... The continuing debacle of CK-4 not being approved in PowerStrokes, but then some are, but others aren't leaving new PSD owners searching bottom shelves for leftover old stock CJ-4 while the world has moved on. The PSD is built on the same line as the F150, and it uses Ford Gold (G05 in drag) so it was a convenience for them to have one coolant. Great in the gas burner, not so good in the EGR and oil cooler in the PSD. But that still has no bearing on headgaskets.
Minor FICM tuning with injector timing is generally safe, but I wouldn't even go the 80HP Atlas tune without studs and FelPro MLS gaskets.
I get it, bills and all, so good luck. But if you tuned it, you are on borrowed time, or time is up.

 

I tell you all what. I could care less if it catches on fire and burns. I'm going to drive it with the original head gasket and no studs until the coolant is flowing quicker then diesel. Until that happens, and because it's going to happen at any moment, feel free to hold your breath. I'll update you as soon as it does. I'm so sorry that it offends all of you and I'm so tired of hearing about it. I DONT CARE IF IT OR WHEN IT GOES. I have read extensively ok this website and with the exception of you, everyone has ragged on the EGR and coolant system issues as being the biggest culprit. Certainly I have read that the head gasket design contributes but you were the only one who says that the EGR and coolant system has little to nothing to do with it. AgsiA, in case is hasn't been said enough, I don't care if or when it goes. I will replace the whole motor with a totally rebuilt studded motor as this one has half a million miles for Christ sake. Everyone who wants to donate $4500 to stud a half million miles motor, pm and we'll make it happen

 

 

 

The only thing I know of is to go to thread tools and unsubscribe from the thread.

 

You needn't worry about hiding it. I won't be posting here any more. I joined this site to expand my knowledge so that when I am talking to a mechanic about what I would like done and he's telling me what I should do, I would be able to sort out wether I'm being taken for a ride or not. I feel as though I've gotten that far at this point. 85% of the interaction I have had on here has been negative or totally not helpful. We have established that the head gasket will not sustain this sort of abuse. Read the WHOLE thread then reply. We have established that I don't plan on studding this motor. We have established that the coolant system has some serious flaws that need to be addressed. I even had one guy respond saying I'm an idiot for not monitoring the truck and then change it to "10 characters" because after he read it, he realized I monitor everything, including EGTs with an X4. There is a great wealth of information on here. The trouble is, the bulk of you know just the basics and get so freaking hung up on it that you keep rehashing the same things that have already been covered! I wish you all the best but I'd rather over pay for services I may or may not need then listen to a bunch of c****. Oh and lastly, $5,000 ISN'T A LOT OF MONEY. 90% of you pay more then that in interest on your loans and cards a year!

 

I'm sorry you feel that way. Your first post said that you plan to have a flat bed and haul a log loading trailer with it. Many of the replies (especially mine) were focused on getting the truck right and helping you make a reliable tow pig out of it.

Your thread then took a turn and morphed into a fun race truck until it blows up. Add the contradictory statements (you have mentioned studding and not studding the motor) along with your denial of anyone's comments that don't match you (or your diesel mechanic's) thoughts. Most of us are not looking for a dually track truck and are focused on longevity.

While you may feel electronically assaulted, I assure you that you will be hard-pressed to find a friendlier forum than this one.

I'm sorry we couldn't help you build a Shelby-crushing dually.

 

No, no, no. My father took it to the track for fun. Again, if you read the whole thread, I'm sticking with a stage 2 even though it would hamper the so called Shelby crushing potential. I'm also going with relatively small injectors for what would be considered a track truck. My goals haven't changed in the least. I still want a powerful truck that will tow large loads. I put the list of parts I was looking into on here so as to get some input on how it would perform in towing situations. I even said that I wanted to be sure that the parts I listed would be suited for heavy towing as that is the trucks purpose. I know that the best reliability would be had with a stock studded truck but I also want to push for more power.