OIL -OIL just keep her cleaned out .Never let her get low . I know what you mean I have put one hell of a lot of work into this truck engine ,windows controls ,front end ,fuel system I can 't list it all I'm at 197k hope to make it to 300k .
Wife keeps telling me to get a new one , no way yet . Maybe when I get 80 now at 73 ..
I have faith that you will get her running good for a long time ,but sadly you are like a good book we will miss the game when you finish .

 

@gamboni did you ever get a good quality data scanner throughout this ordeal? I'm sure I would have recommended Torque Pro but with enough money a guy can get a better one - say like an IDS system for $50k.

If _EVERYTHING_ is working like it is supposed to, your 5.4L _WILL_ idle as smooth as any Mercedes Benz.

If _something_ is working (but just beneath) DTC trigger point, finding it is like pinning the tail on the donkey - IN THE DARK without a quality live data scanner / logger.

It could literally be a dozen different things any one of which might not be out of spec far enough to throw a code. I can think of a number of simple things I would love to see readings from and data log files of.

In the absence of the above - I would personally suggest taking the truck to a dealership and "STIPULATE W/O EQUIVOCATION" that the ONE&ONLY thing you want (and will pay for) is a 'Power Balance' test (AND PRINTOUT) performed under TWO conditions. a) On start up after 6 hour soak. b) after EOT is within 5 degrees of ECT. (and BTW Torque Pro - or none of the cheap scanners can successfully do this anyway.)

A weak cylinder is the only thing that can result in the symptom you describe, but many things can cause it. You would be well served beyond the cost to know WHICH cylinder, or cylinder(s) are contributing to it. Then you could drill down on WHY.

I will cheerfully and respectfully accept any criticism of my plan.

 

@ Torqued, how could I critique you? You have been with me since day one and ALL of your advice has been truly appreciated (albeit a little beyond my understanding). I agree with you, it's time for a Doctor to put a monitor on to. I appreciate your precise advice but what does this mean? . Will the mechanic understand this?
@ Redfish, Going to change the oil tonight. I am curious about the junk in it. Also, that it might be thinned from gas.
I know this has been quite a three month story. I am sure something else will break soon. I look for you guys on other posts to see what's up.

 

If he don't, go on down the road and look for another mechanic / another dealership.

COLD / HOT is far too im-precious. He's likely to just run the test twice and miss your symptoms. I was setting specific parameters that are all available to him from OBDII. He's got the EVAP 'Soak' time flag, available from OBDII that says the vehicle has been 'sitting' - in OFF state for > six hours. And then when Engine Oil Temperature --- FINALLY --- reaches near Engine Coolant Temperature, the engine is at full operating temp. That takes a good while and is missed by MOST who talk about their "HOT" oil pressure readings being xx? whatever. Thermostat raises coolant temp right away, but EOT will not stabalize and be at maximum temperature until it gets close to coolant temperature.

 

Hey @gamboni, Your problem has kept me awake at night. I do not take kindly at all to things that I can't figure out. I've come up with what I think is a pretty good ole 'red-neck' method of performing a POWER BALANCE TEST that doesn't require a high powered / fast reading / expensive OBDII scanner. Torque Pro should work fine.

The procedure will 'cause' DTCs, but that should be OK - we are doing diagnostics anyway. And I THINK the ones we will cause will clear by themselves when we are done if you don't want to clear DTCs (which clears other things also). You know I'm generally against clearing frequently.

A STANDARD power balance test is accomplished by synchronizing with the firing order and reading the crankshaft acceleration that occurs with each cylinder ignition. Sorta' the 'REVERSE' of how the PCM detects a misfire. Misfires are detected by the slight 'DIP' in audio frequency signal being generated by the crankshaft tone ring as it spins past the CPK. A cylinder misfires, the crankshaft slows slightly before the next cylinder kicks it along again. Literally, the pulses coming from the tone ring slow down and the PCM detects that. ///BUT it has to be synchronized with the firing order to produce the nice pretty POWER BALANCE GRAPH -by cylinder .///

HOWEVER. We can almost take advantage of the fact Torque Pro (or any scanner with Bluetooth Dongle) is slow because it tends to display the 'average' RPM since it is only reading maybe two or three times per engine revolution.

So, If you crank her up, in park, and let her idle until idle stabilizes, and jot down RPM on a piece of paper. Then 'unplug' the fuel injector for Cylinder Number 1. Jot down #1 and jot down several (but a set number) of RPM readings observed. Average them.

Reconnect injector #1 and let idle for a minute or so to recover and note RPM should be ~ same as original. Then Disconnect injector #2. and repeat the procedure, jotting down the same number of readings observed as for cylinder #1 and average them. Reconnect injector 2 and wait a minute or so...

Repeat this procedure for all eight cylinders.

A 'strong' or 'the stronger' cylinders will make a larger difference (Drop) in average RPM readings than the 'weak' one - or 'weaker ones'. Actually, in a perfect world, I believe you could develop a percentage factor of difference between the ones that made the greatest difference in average RPM drop. Might not be perfect - but I'll bet you could tell which cylinder or cylinders were causing your rough idle. If they are all on same bank - it would be enlightening - and suggesting breathing on that bank.

Just a thought. I'm a strong believer in finding a way to take advantage of what's at hand and using it. This sorta falls in that category.

 

Good morning torqued, Thank you for the advice. Good idea but I think it's simply time to have a professional analysis done. This way I'll get my answer and peace of mind.
There are a few changes and things to consider since my last post:
Recall from Ford390gashog post 121
Would this cause a load balance issue?
Also, I am sure it is not a cyclinder #5 misfire problem simply becasue when I replaced the injector I noticed the "o" ring had a dimple in it. Since replaced no more codes
Also, my dashboard guages keeps resetting. It only happens for a split second but is happening all the time. Dash beeps, Guages drop to zero and all lights come on. I have to press reset?
Finally, the engine starts with a roar as she used to and runs fine until warm-up. Then a ruff idle but at 2,000 RPM or above she runs great........I think, at least i don't feel it runnig ruff.

 

Dont worry about the headgasket. Its blue because its Fel-pro. The thicker gaskets are for when the head has to be machined and would most likely have to be special ordered. Also it would say thicker in the description. For the gauges resetting, there is probably a loose ground somewhere. Ive seen a few of these trucks get a water leak at the right corner of the windshield and water gets into the fuse box and causes all kinds of crazy stuff.

 

 

Rust in the doors is from water getting past the window seals and the drain holes clogged. No way to stop the water entry but you can make sure it gets out.

 

Hi Everyone, well I took the truck to a local dealership here in Chesapeake..Cavalier Ford. They just gave me a call and said they believe it's a timing issue because the analysis showed uniform and low compression on all 4 cylinder (5-8). Really you guys I just can't see how this is because I just took the drivers side valve cover off and rechecked the timing rollers and lifters. At least on the phaser gear the chain is right on. Perhaps a chain tensioner, or perhaps guides could cause this but I will take the covers off one more time and hopefully I can get in there with a camera scope and see it before I go too far. But at least now we now. Oh BTW, the cost to repair was a mere $4,200. Not bad, should I do it?

 

I dont think its timing. If it was, there would be a code. Did they do a manual compression test or just a relative compression test on IDS?

 

My vote is that you just order a reman'd long block from Rock Auto and have it dropped in. The cost would be about the same.

 

hell no on the 4200 , I don't think you got a top notch tech .If you decide to give up I would go reman at that price .I believe you got close to replace engine from dealer .Get a junk engine for core or just let core price go . There's too much invested in this engine to let it go. You are so close on this its a shame if we can't fix it .

 

@ Redfish, I agree and I am not giving up. It was supposed to be a joke and it is. @ Rumble, really the truck is not worth $4,200 ( Maybe close). Anyhow just like a good women If i can't fix her and have to spend that kind of money, it's going into the Chesapeake bay, but first I have to **** on it and I am not ready ......Yet. Not sure why I answered 70f this afternoon on my cell phone but the post did not show up....It's intermitenet so WTF. Anyhow, I agree Redfish as always if they know you are spending money you get the bare minimum. It willl cost $125 and I will pick it tomorrow. I asked for the papaer work on the results the answer was weak, "we do not do that anymorre". All I klnow right now is that it was not a phyisical compresseion test but only one done by the anaylyzer. Not really sure what all this does but seems weak. Cylinders 5-8 on bank 2 across the board are low on compression, so tech says it's a timimng issue. I agree with 70f, I was REAL careful about that whole scenario and sent picture after picture. Unless it jumped a tooth after I put the valve cover on I doubt the Ford tech is right. Anyhow, this weekend I will do a manual comp test with my fancy new comp tool and adpater thanks to 70f. We'll kepp in touch....FYI it's always good to hear from you all again. THIS ONE WILL BE FIXED! Also, I bought a camera scope, maybe I can pry the cover off enough to see the chain. I have 6 feet of LED camera. Prpobaly not woth it , as I said I do not think it's a chain issue either.

 

Haha yeah they just used the IDS to test relative compression. All that does is compares the rpm drop when each cylinder comes up on compression. A weak cylinder wont have as much of a drop as a good cylinder. Takes a total of 5 minutes to do and it's easy to print the results. A manual compression test is much more accurate. Maybe you can take a road trip to Fuquay-Varina NC and I'll look at it😁😁