change to small block chevy?
#17
Yeah. And I want to put a Ford Coyote engine in my 1967 Stingray.
The Y Block was used for many years. The problem is if the oil isn't changed for 20,000 miles or so the oil passages to the head get plugged up.
Suggest that you ask anyone on here if they have a good Y block that they would sell you.
The Y Block was used for many years. The problem is if the oil isn't changed for 20,000 miles or so the oil passages to the head get plugged up.
Suggest that you ask anyone on here if they have a good Y block that they would sell you.
#19
Yeah. And I want to put a Ford Coyote engine in my 1967 Stingray.
The Y Block was used for many years. The problem is if the oil isn't changed for 20,000 miles or so the oil passages to the head get plugged up.
Suggest that you ask anyone on here if they have a good Y block that they would sell you.
The Y Block was used for many years. The problem is if the oil isn't changed for 20,000 miles or so the oil passages to the head get plugged up.
Suggest that you ask anyone on here if they have a good Y block that they would sell you.
#20
Hi Jerry, seems as if your original request for help has turned into more of a Ford VS Chevy thread, rather than one to fix the 0 mile motor that you already have, I'm no mechanic but I noticed some good advice on unsticking your valve train ,and how to keep it unstuck once you do, I sincerely hope with a little work you can get what you have running so you can enjoy your truck.. Good luck and please keep us posted on how it works out for you.
#21
Good summary of the situation. There's likely a zero cost solution to the problems, aside from the cost of some MMO and some time.
#23
Jerry - I apologize if I started a $h1t storm with my comment about the Ford as opposed to the Chevy engine. Either one that keeps one of these old trucks on the road is a good thing. The ideas of how to fix the original engine is probably the best answers and may be the most expediant and least costly. These guys know what they are doing with these trucks and that era of vechiles and is the reason I keep coming back for much needed help with my Studebaker, now that I had to sell the F3 -- just good people that enjoy the hobby and are willing to help. So hopefully you get good ideas on what you can try or a good idea of what engine/transplant to use. Have fun
#24
#25
Last century, I picked up a '46 Chevy pick up cheap. I pulled the 6 cylinder and located a 351M with heavy duty C4 that was going into it. Why not? But after I tore my meniscus crawling underneath to fart with the master cylinder, the truck was sold. It wound up in Denmark. No, the engine didn't go with it.
Later!
Mr. Ed
Later!
Mr. Ed
#26
Well I just wanted to update everyone. i checked to see if my springs where binding on something. So I poured some marvel mystery oil to see if this would help. And happy days it did. The motor was turned and the spring compressed and rebounded. I guess the parts just got sticky. So now I am going to put mystery oil on the valve train and spin it by hand. And then reset valve clearance. Thanks for all the help and advice. and dont worry about chevy ford or whatever. You just build the best truck you can afford.
thanks
Jerry
thanks
Jerry
#28
I had a vehicle (can't remember which one due to memory and old age) but it had a noisy top end in it. I changed the oil and added one quart of Marvel. After a few days, the top end cleaned up and quieted down. Since then, I use marvel in every old engine to clean the innards. Read the label and you'll find uses for it you never even thought of. The stuff is fantastic!
Later!
Mr. Ed
Later!
Mr. Ed
#29
old school fix,we use to pipe a oil line up into the top of the rocker shaft,both side,they use to sell a kit for this back in the 70s-early 80s,i rebuilt a few y blocks and after the oil passage would get clogged,i think maybe a guy said sometimes the cam bearings move and cover the oil passage ?.but these y block engines barely get much oil to the rockers anyway,