1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

change to small block chevy?

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  #16  
Old 03-19-2018, 04:12 PM
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If it were up to me... (decided to keep my big mouth shut)
 
  #17  
Old 03-19-2018, 06:02 PM
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Yeah. And I want to put a Ford Coyote engine in my 1967 Stingray.

The Y Block was used for many years. The problem is if the oil isn't changed for 20,000 miles or so the oil passages to the head get plugged up.

Suggest that you ask anyone on here if they have a good Y block that they would sell you.
 
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Old 03-19-2018, 06:39 PM
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Unless I missed something it's a 0 mile motor the valves are tight in the guides . I would think the time and money to get the valves loosened up would be far less than remounting a different engine , trans mounts , driveshaft , shifter linkage , rad , etc . IMHO
 
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Old 03-19-2018, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by petemcl
Yeah. And I want to put a Ford Coyote engine in my 1967 Stingray.

The Y Block was used for many years. The problem is if the oil isn't changed for 20,000 miles or so the oil passages to the head get plugged up.

Suggest that you ask anyone on here if they have a good Y block that they would sell you.
I bought my 54 with a 239 Yblock in 1977. It was rebuilt in 1979. I have used it ever since as a daily driver or second car or my work truck up until 2012 when I bought a 70 F350 for a work truck. It has run good. I replaced the heads in 2016 and it runs even better. As said above if you change the oil when you should and use detergent oil the passages to the head will not get plugged.
 
  #20  
Old 03-19-2018, 10:56 PM
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Hi Jerry, seems as if your original request for help has turned into more of a Ford VS Chevy thread, rather than one to fix the 0 mile motor that you already have, I'm no mechanic but I noticed some good advice on unsticking your valve train ,and how to keep it unstuck once you do, I sincerely hope with a little work you can get what you have running so you can enjoy your truck.. Good luck and please keep us posted on how it works out for you.
 
  #21  
Old 03-19-2018, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by EBEAR
Unless I missed something it's a 0 mile motor the valves are tight in the guides . I would think the time and money to get the valves loosened up would be far less than remounting a different engine , trans mounts , driveshaft , shifter linkage , rad , etc . IMHO
Good summary of the situation. There's likely a zero cost solution to the problems, aside from the cost of some MMO and some time.
 
  #22  
Old 03-20-2018, 07:35 AM
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engine

NO belly button engine SBC-- go a Ford 302 then you have A FORD in a FORD the way it should be---
 
  #23  
Old 03-20-2018, 08:39 AM
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Jerry - I apologize if I started a $h1t storm with my comment about the Ford as opposed to the Chevy engine. Either one that keeps one of these old trucks on the road is a good thing. The ideas of how to fix the original engine is probably the best answers and may be the most expediant and least costly. These guys know what they are doing with these trucks and that era of vechiles and is the reason I keep coming back for much needed help with my Studebaker, now that I had to sell the F3 -- just good people that enjoy the hobby and are willing to help. So hopefully you get good ideas on what you can try or a good idea of what engine/transplant to use. Have fun
 
  #24  
Old 03-20-2018, 08:45 AM
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in my experience it is varnish from old fuel that causes the valve to stick. oil will help but carb cleaner will remove the varnish and allow the oil to do it's work
 
  #25  
Old 03-20-2018, 12:57 PM
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Last century, I picked up a '46 Chevy pick up cheap. I pulled the 6 cylinder and located a 351M with heavy duty C4 that was going into it. Why not? But after I tore my meniscus crawling underneath to fart with the master cylinder, the truck was sold. It wound up in Denmark. No, the engine didn't go with it.

Later!
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  #26  
Old 03-23-2018, 02:44 AM
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Well I just wanted to update everyone. i checked to see if my springs where binding on something. So I poured some marvel mystery oil to see if this would help. And happy days it did. The motor was turned and the spring compressed and rebounded. I guess the parts just got sticky. So now I am going to put mystery oil on the valve train and spin it by hand. And then reset valve clearance. Thanks for all the help and advice. and dont worry about chevy ford or whatever. You just build the best truck you can afford.

thanks
Jerry
 
  #27  
Old 03-23-2018, 07:06 AM
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Very good! Keep posting and be sure to SHOW us progress with pics. Have fun.
 
  #28  
Old 03-23-2018, 10:29 AM
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I had a vehicle (can't remember which one due to memory and old age) but it had a noisy top end in it. I changed the oil and added one quart of Marvel. After a few days, the top end cleaned up and quieted down. Since then, I use marvel in every old engine to clean the innards. Read the label and you'll find uses for it you never even thought of. The stuff is fantastic!

Later!
Mr. Ed
 
  #29  
Old 03-23-2018, 10:39 AM
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old school fix,we use to pipe a oil line up into the top of the rocker shaft,both side,they use to sell a kit for this back in the 70s-early 80s,i rebuilt a few y blocks and after the oil passage would get clogged,i think maybe a guy said sometimes the cam bearings move and cover the oil passage ?.but these y block engines barely get much oil to the rockers anyway,
 
  #30  
Old 03-23-2018, 10:41 AM
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And my 2 cents worth,a guy told me once,owning a ford with a chevy engine is like riding a honda,its fun tell someone sees you
 


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