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It seems kinda odd that something as simple as a motor mount wouldn't fit correctly... unless they gave you the incorrect part number. How do the new part and old part look when you set them side by side?
i believe they gave me the wrong part, i returned it but the only difference was the height by maybe an inch or two On the Oriellys web sight the part shown for my truck is not the one they gave me. I had to put the old mount in to get it back home but i will take it out and take a picture and post it in the next week.
You could try another local parts house... AutoZone, Pep Boys, Advance, etc, and take the old mount with you to compare what they try to sell you. That way you won't waste time installing something that might be incorrect. Many times, a store might now have it in their stock but can get it for you that same day from another store in the same area... so it's not like you'd have to wait days for the part to come in.
Okay so this (above) is the drivers side mount, which is stubbier and the one that is causing me problems. when i start it and rev the engine it jumps off this mount completely and almost hits the hood when its closed. i am assuming that the centered bolt is broken and is allowing the engine to jump off. i believe the mounts are fine, just the bolt isnt.
Sorry for pic quality but this is the bolt i believe is broken in the rubber
and this is the passenger mount which is longer. the mounts i find online look nothing like them, i dont know if the aftermarket mounts just look boxier and work the same but i got one from oriellys and it was taller than the original. Im going to just try to put a new bolt in the old ones place to see if this fixes the engine jumping problem. Then we will see if it even fixes my tapping sound. im hoping it does and if it doesnt we will try again.
Okay so i took my drivers mount off, i need to go to get a new one, i believe im just going to keep trying new ones and returning them. Question, is the rubber adhered to the metal by glue? that seems pretty unreliable and i feel like this could come loose after a few years because of how junk aftermarket motor mounts are.
As an engineer who spent years working specifically on passenger car engine mounts, I can tell you that the rubber is chemically bonded to the steel using a heat-activated adhesive coating. During the rubber vulcanization process, the adhesive is activated and creates a very good bond between rubber and metal - often lasting much longer than the rubber itself.
However, there are many many many ways to screw up this bond; bad metal surface prep, adhesive contamination prior to curing, too thick or too thin adhesive film, bad batch of adhesive, adhesive getting too hot / burning off prior to the rubber injection, etc. etc. Could've happened to Ford's supplier when the truck was built, and can happen to whoever makes the replacements now. I noticed when I bought my replacements that the mold sealing lines were not very good and I have a lot of rubber overflow - but that won't affect the function or life of them.
Just my .02 cents since you asked how they were bonded
The rubber on new motor mounts probably looks taller / bigger / thicker (however you want to put) compared to your old ones because the old ones have been compressed. When I did my motor mounts, the new ones were 1/2" taller than the old because the old rubber was in such poor shape.
As long as the mount bolts line up on the block and the perch it should be fine.
Thanks Frenchtown Flyer, the rubber is very much dry rotted and 90% of it is still stuck to the metal so i wouldnt doubt it when you say the adhesive outlasts the rubber because my rubber is about done for. i Ordered new mounts that look very original off of Mac's antique vehicles web sight. here it is, i wanted one that would work for sure so i paid the 15 extra dollars in the hope that i get the right one, they were 25 per side.
Alrighty new mounts are on, i still have my knocking noise on warmup, plus the whole truck vibrates when i take off from a stop. the idle shakes my whole dash, its very loud. Most people have said that mounts need a break in time. And my Problem is not fixed, so back to square one
Okay so i am bringing back an old thread because the noise finally got loud enough to put a stethoscope to it, The sound is coming from the front of the pushrod cover, i did a compression test, cylinders 1-5 are at 135 and 6 is at 115psi. So i dont have a problem there yet. yesterday i removed the old lifters and put an old pushrod into a drill press, with a lifter below it i could not compress the lifter at all with all the force of the drill press i nearly bent the pushrod, they are all stuck. So.... i got new lifters and break in fluid, they are soaking right now. I will put them in Wednesday evening and let you all know how it goes. I just wanted to follow up on my thread so that if i was to fix the problem others with similar issues can know
10-08-2018, 12:41 PM
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