Not Enough truck?
#16
What's your towing experience? Weight isn't the issue, its wind resistance. My old camper was 25' overall and weighted about 4k, new one is 35' over all and is 7-8k and i only see about 1-2 mpg difference(7-9 mpg) at 65. It takes a good bit of power to pull something with a ton of frontal area at speed. Dropping a gear or two is normal, especially if you get into a headwind or start climbing.
Thanks for the advise and happy camping..
#17
The stock rear shocks are terrible for towing. Get a set of bilsteins or rancho adjustables and you will see a lot of that go away. Im very happy with a rancho's but i have a bit more tongue weight.
#18
boats, even pontoons are much more aerodynamic and they tow a lot easier at the same weight. You will get used to towing with the camper, they are a different animal.
#19
IMHO, here is the issue....... this is not the same 5.0 engine that the previous F series had for decades....... the increased 1k rpm has shifted the torque band up by about the same, and the only way to mitigate this is to go with lower gears in the diff (by .50 gear ratio) or you can accomplish the same this by going to a shorter tire.
I had already considered this change but unsure of the best way to go about it..
#20
The other game changer is the transmission. Having 5+ gears and a tourque converter that locks in multiple gears is a *huge* and positive advantage over the 3 - 4 speed transmissions where at best the TCC locked in OD (unless an aftermarket controller was installed to lock while in lower gears). Now, the computer can select a gear that keeps the motor in its sweet-spot much better than when there were fewer gears to chose from.
Toward shorter gearing, not sure that I agree about reflexively lowering the differential ratio or a shorter tire is beneficial in all situations. Not looking to start a battle, just sharing a perspective. In the SUV, I just went from a differential of 3.73 to 3.42 and a 4 speed tranny to a 5 speed. Sure, the rig is a tad slower off the line, but I am truly loving the change as it allows me to put the motor right in its sweet spot for towing (at 55 mph in direct gear) and highway cruising at the speed limit (70 mph in OD). Besides, what am I going to get back in life by quicker acceleration, maybe 2 - 4 seconds that will get eaten-up by the next red light?
Toward shorter gearing, not sure that I agree about reflexively lowering the differential ratio or a shorter tire is beneficial in all situations. Not looking to start a battle, just sharing a perspective. In the SUV, I just went from a differential of 3.73 to 3.42 and a 4 speed tranny to a 5 speed. Sure, the rig is a tad slower off the line, but I am truly loving the change as it allows me to put the motor right in its sweet spot for towing (at 55 mph in direct gear) and highway cruising at the speed limit (70 mph in OD). Besides, what am I going to get back in life by quicker acceleration, maybe 2 - 4 seconds that will get eaten-up by the next red light?
#21
Prior to going this route, might consider checking the tires on the trailer to see if there is room for lowering the drag. From there, check with a tuner to dial-in the truck's behavior. Reasoning is that unless you are doing the axle work yourself, it is far more economical to do the other things first than re-gear the differential. Just say-in
Edit: Just noticed that the trailer tires are Load D, so I'd start by checking with a tuner to see if there is room to adjust the shift patterns. And, at the risk of insulting, I'd do a lot of homework first though.
#22
Wish I had a carport. Most of my neighbors have a shop behind their house with door to drive their motor home or trailer into. My lot is not set up to build one. May put up a steel cover this spring. They run about $2,000 for something that *****’s bd 12x36. Since this is my first trailer, joined Good Sam and KOA downloaded bunch of checklists, and transferred my brothers unused Thousand Trails over to me. In the past was able to camp out in China Lake area and Mojave desert. Will be exploring Oregon to see what’s available. Can’t wait
#23
Also going to an LT tire might help... Thanks
#24
If you experienced porpoising with that rig I think you're on the right track to check your hitch settings. My experience was that the dealer who set mine up did not apply nearly enough lift to the equalizer bars. Adjusting the hitch head angle and tightening the bars made a world of difference.
#25
Prior to going this route, might consider checking the tires on the trailer to see if there is room for lowering the drag. From there, check with a tuner to dial-in the truck's behavior. Reasoning is that unless you are doing the axle work yourself, it is far more economical to do the other things first than re-gear the differential. Just say-in
Edit: Just noticed that the trailer tires are Load D, so I'd start by checking with a tuner to see if there is room to adjust the shift patterns. And, at the risk of insulting, I'd do a lot of homework first though.
Edit: Just noticed that the trailer tires are Load D, so I'd start by checking with a tuner to see if there is room to adjust the shift patterns. And, at the risk of insulting, I'd do a lot of homework first though.
Researching rear suspension and tuning.. seems like a good start.
Also read that LT tires are recommended for towing, don't believe mine are..
#26
Would that be maybe Rancho RS9000 series that are adjustable? My 2015 is new to me and will have a 1000 pound tongue weight from my trailer.
#27
Join Date: Oct 2015
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#28
#29
yep, 9000xl's. I crank them up to 9 and the ride is much better, unloaded i leave them at 5 and they are bit firmer than stock. my campers tongue weight is 950 dry, not sure loaded my guess is 1000-1100.
#30
Thanks will get a set installed before any long trips and follow your example as mine falls into same weight range.