For the third time lol.

 

i have a shop that offered to tow and diagnose for free. i accepted. here is what they just told me:

1)ICP KOEO=0.24VDC
2)while cranking, the snap-on scanner says 378PSI of pressure. the pressure should correspond to 0.475VDC.
3)pulled valve covers and crank; said no visible leaks on stand pipes or rails. should i still request the pressure test?
4) tech says he thinks that the J-pipe to pump O-ring is blown. said he has seen it happen twice even when using Ford o-rings.
5) unplugged ICP and still no start

 

If the tech has a hunch that those o-rings are blown, then it's pretty easy at this point for him to air test with the small port on either oil rail. If he's worked on 6.0's it's a fitting he should have in his tool box. That said he should really test it through the IPR, another fitting he should have. That also allows him to check for trash on the screen as Blade pointed out earlier.

FWIW I have yet to read a post here about a bad one out of the bag, but it's possible.
It's not building pressure, that much you know for a fact.....or it would have started by now with the ICP unplugged.
Also FWIW, just cranking the engine is a poor way for a tech to rule out a leak on the upper injector o-rings/oil rail or stand pipes, the latter another thing that RARELY fails on an early build.

Is your ICP under the turbo? Or on the passenger side valve cover?

 

thanks for the feedback!

ICP is behind and below turbo, unfortunately.
i have been perusing the 6.0 Bible, and i am curious about oil pressure from the LPOP; is it high enough? then i start thinking about testing the oil pressure and fuel pressure using the test ports on the oil cooler and filter housing, or purchase the caps with fittings installed. which is better and what are the fittings used in the test ports?

i plan to visit the vehicle on Monday and chat with the tech again. i will insist on the IPR pressure test. with the pump cover installed and pressurizing the IPR port, where will a bad pump or pump o-ring be revealed? where would the air leak? with the oil cooler removed, i could see the gurgling/spitting of oil from the pump through the reservoir screen opening.

since the valve covers are off, should i go ahead and replace the stand pipes, rail o-rings, and injector o-rings or let that sleeping dog lie if there are no leaks found???

lastly, even though my FICM voltages are all good i will refurbish the power supply with new capacitors and resistors. reflow the solder joints too. then i will test the power supply with 12VDC input and load the 48VDC output to 20A. i assume it is OK to apply a steady state load the power supply??? the power stuff is easy for me because i have a15KVA power lab to to perform the work and testing. is there a kit for the capacitors and resistors? i may have them on hand but i do not know their values.

 

Why would you start screwing with stuff that should be or tests fine? It only opens the door to potentially making this repair all more complicated.

 

haha! you're right, i was just looking for confirmation!!!

 

Jack offers good advice, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Again, the IPR screen should be checked first, that will happen once the tech pulls the IPR.

 

And sometimes I should even listen to me.

 

new IPR i just installed.

what the heck happened???

new IPR after new pump install
​​​​​​​

 

If not to late,need to spin it over a little before you put in new ipr,it will make a mess but also clearout the ipr seat area of debris before it blows into the new ipr.

 

Classic case of too much junk in the trunk.

Whenever I open up anything on the oil side, you would think I was doing surgery, but it pays off in the long run.

 

Just to make sure you know. You can just replace the screen and not the whole IPR. You also need to thank these guys for saving you a thousand bucks or so.

 

you are correct Tide! not enough thanks to go around!!!

i spoke to the tech after he sent me the picture of the IPR. he says to replace the pump and IPR per some TSB ford issued. i disagree. i will visit them again tomorrow and take another new IPR along with my old IPR that has new o-rings and screen. instead of just spraying the oil out of the IPR port, i will use a brass fitting that should fit into the port with an 8 ft piece of clear hose on it. even if it leaks a little around the threads, it will not be as bad as just spraying it.

question: what is the flow rate of the HPOP while cranking? just to know how much oil will exit per second of cranking. i thought i read somewhere that it flows 25 gallons/minute; is that correct? i will take an additional gallon of new oil with me because i would not feel good about putting that "scrap" or drained oil back into the engine. my plan is to have the tech perform the quick "flush" as described above, install second new IPR, and see if it will start. can i check he/we pressure/IPR before reinstalling the air intake piping and FICM?

now at home, i just measured the coil resistance of my old IPR and the other new IPR using a new pigtail id did not install. old IPR=8.4 ohms/new IPR=5.3 ohms. does this look correct? old IPR has 265K miles on it, so i decided to replace it with the IPR in the picture above. i assume the higher coil resistance on the old IPR is not good and is a sign of old age. good news is i do have two new screens, because the ford dealer does not stock them locally.

 

Every new IPR valve I've ever installed has almost always measured 6.0 ohms that I recall.

 

thanks guy!

i did not see any difference when measuring with the pigtail or without. i used my Fluke 21 Series II handheld multimeter, zeroed out the lead resistance, and made the measurements. i know that sometimes there is more than 1 ohm of lead resistance with some leads/meters, so that is why i remove that from the equation. i have a 4-wire Fluke 45 benchtop meter at work, so i may bring it home for the holidays!

when an IPR coil fails, does it normally go open or shorted???

thanks again!