How do I fix rust problems without using bondo or cutting corners?
#1
How do I fix rust problems without using bondo or cutting corners?
Hello all! I've got a problem.
Keep in mind I am new to restoration work - this is my first project and I want to do it right. I do have people that have experience
and are willing to help me, but I figured others opinions and techniques could give me a better understanding.
My 73' F250 has some small patches of rust with small holes under cab and on the inside of the passenger side door.
Also on the passenger side is where the metal on the outside of the door has been cut? (pictured) Not sure what happened.
I wanted to know if there was any way I could repair these without using bondo or cheap body fillers? Any advice is appreciated!
Keep in mind I am new to restoration work - this is my first project and I want to do it right. I do have people that have experience
and are willing to help me, but I figured others opinions and techniques could give me a better understanding.
My 73' F250 has some small patches of rust with small holes under cab and on the inside of the passenger side door.
Also on the passenger side is where the metal on the outside of the door has been cut? (pictured) Not sure what happened.
I wanted to know if there was any way I could repair these without using bondo or cheap body fillers? Any advice is appreciated!
#2
#3
#4
first of all I applaud you wanting to do things the right way, for me I learned how to weld. Best thing I could have done for myself. Whether it be welding in new body patches or seem welding that slice back together, that is making the truck one piece again, instead of bonding the surfaces. I choose to TIG weld, but MIG welding is alot more user friendly espeically for a first time / new user.
#5
#6
first of all I applaud you wanting to do things the right way, for me I learned how to weld. Best thing I could have done for myself. Whether it be welding in new body patches or seem welding that slice back together, that is making the truck one piece again, instead of bonding the surfaces. I choose to TIG weld, but MIG welding is alot more user friendly espeically for a first time / new user.
I really would like to learn to weld, figure it will be useful for stuff like this.
I've read into TIG welding but haven't had a chance to practice with it. Haven't heard much of mig but I'll look into it as well.
#7
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#8
Unless that tear just happened, it is body filler. There should be a lot more rust if that was virgin metal there. No matter what, you need to clean up that area sooner than later. See what you have to work with and if you need some patch panels. You can buy an inexpensive welder at Harbor Freight, around $100. Then watch some videos on youtube and you can teach yourself how to weld.
Good luck and nice truck!
Good luck and nice truck!
#9
Unless that tear just happened, it is body filler. There should be a lot more rust if that was virgin metal there. No matter what, you need to clean up that area sooner than later. See what you have to work with and if you need some patch panels. You can buy an inexpensive welder at Harbor Freight, around $100. Then watch some videos on youtube and you can teach yourself how to weld.
Good luck and nice truck!
Good luck and nice truck!
We have a harbor freight here, so I'll be sure to look. Thank you!
#10
I would also say that is filler as you will never see a tear like that in a place like that.
You don't need to talk to the PO take a magnet to it. If it sticks it is metal, if it does not stick filler.
That is a tool to use when checking out a car/truck to check for filler.
The only thing about a welder from any place other than a welding shop even if it is a name brand is they are not made the same and some parts cant be gotten for them if they break. So something to think about when buying from a big box store.
Besides it is nice to make friends with the welding store people as they can help you when you have questions and to get supplies from.
They most likely have the gas you would need for MIG or TIG units too.
Look into a local school that teaches welding in say night classes to get the basics and go from there.
Dave ----
You don't need to talk to the PO take a magnet to it. If it sticks it is metal, if it does not stick filler.
That is a tool to use when checking out a car/truck to check for filler.
The only thing about a welder from any place other than a welding shop even if it is a name brand is they are not made the same and some parts cant be gotten for them if they break. So something to think about when buying from a big box store.
Besides it is nice to make friends with the welding store people as they can help you when you have questions and to get supplies from.
They most likely have the gas you would need for MIG or TIG units too.
Look into a local school that teaches welding in say night classes to get the basics and go from there.
Dave ----
#13
I would also say that is filler as you will never see a tear like that in a place like that.
You don't need to talk to the PO take a magnet to it. If it sticks it is metal, if it does not stick filler.
That is a tool to use when checking out a car/truck to check for filler.
The only thing about a welder from any place other than a welding shop even if it is a name brand is they are not made the same and some parts cant be gotten for them if they break. So something to think about when buying from a big box store.
Besides it is nice to make friends with the welding store people as they can help you when you have questions and to get supplies from.
They most likely have the gas you would need for MIG or TIG units too.
Look into a local school that teaches welding in say night classes to get the basics and go from there.
Dave ----
You don't need to talk to the PO take a magnet to it. If it sticks it is metal, if it does not stick filler.
That is a tool to use when checking out a car/truck to check for filler.
The only thing about a welder from any place other than a welding shop even if it is a name brand is they are not made the same and some parts cant be gotten for them if they break. So something to think about when buying from a big box store.
Besides it is nice to make friends with the welding store people as they can help you when you have questions and to get supplies from.
They most likely have the gas you would need for MIG or TIG units too.
Look into a local school that teaches welding in say night classes to get the basics and go from there.
Dave ----
HF and all the other shops are an hours drive so I'll keep that in mind about the welder. Need to take care of basics on truck before I even think of buying one.
I'd take some classes but In a town with 180 people and no school to do so, im out of luck.
Thanks for your help!
#14
Now, here's the key... join the WeldingWeb forum. Lay some welds down, then take pictures of your welds and post them on the forum asking for feedback. The folks on that forum are amazing. They can tell you exactly what you need to do differently just by analyzing pictures of your welds. It's a great way to learn. I actually did this while in welding school. I found the online community more helpful than my instructor.
#15
Join Date: Jun 2002
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Bondo if used PROPERLY is not a bad thing. There are few if any, including new vehicles on the road today without some type of body filler on them. You will need a skim coat to cover and smooth any weld seams you have. The trick is to use it properly over properly prepared surfaces. Another option vs welding is the use of panel bond adhesive. 3M has a lot of videos showing it's use.