Your truck probably had some form of this style after-market mirror on it.

David

 

That looks about right! I'm guessing I can just throw a little weld in those holes to seal it back up?

 

3 holes in the door: 2 for the mirror attaching screws, the larger hole was used for the cable for the optional D3TZ-17696-K .. Remote Control Mirror.

 

ND, the picture above was an example of an aftermarket mirror posted by rougeriver. I was referencing the three holes in the door in the picture I posted at the end of page 1.

 

Good parts run today! Picked up a hood, great condition antenna, cab molding trim and horn pad for $100. Got to chat for a while with a guy that's restored a number of 60s and 70s F series trucks.

Is it just me or:

1) Were all headliners and visors from this generation cream colored?
2) Do all stock steering wheels from this generation have a crack in them?
3) Do all stock driver side door panels have some form of damage?
4) Do all stock glove box liners come with mountains of mouse turds?

 

(1) No they are not all cream colored, headliner wise they have cardboard and cardboard with a small hole type cover material that is colored.

Colored vinyl with the 4 XLT buttons. Colored vinyl with the line pleating type design. Same for visors... all colors, even a 79 with a passenger side vanity mirror that lights up when opened.

I have seen black, blue, green, red, cream/off white, brown.

(2)Not all of them are cracked, but a large % are. Fill the crack with a 2 part epoxy and sand smooth and paint.

(3)Again no not all, but there are some tricks to make them more durable.

(4)Yes...lol.

 

Pretty sharp! Thanks for the info!

Re: door panels... how do you make them more durable? I need to replace the driver side panel and the only suitable replacement I found at the junk yard was screwed into the door instead of snapped in. Worth it to just get new panels from Dennis Carpenter?

Re: steering wheels, will the simple $7 tube of Quiksteel epoxy at Advance Auto do the job? And should I be painting the horn pad with the same stuff as the wheel?

 

Dennis Carpenter makes the best reproduction one for sure. (IMO)

Metal over lay the finger cup flat tab. Cut 2 notches to clear the bolt heads for a tighter fit. No worries METAL finger cups will cover the notches. JB Weld reinforcement the back side push pin areas. GM push pins, they are longer and have bigger round mount heads.

Steering wheel I'd guess that would work. I would NOT paint the horn pad, it is rubber.

Horn pad broke issue? Take the the rubber cover off and epoxy the plastic back side stuff back together.

 

Do you ever get tired of all the reputation you receive?

Thanks!

 

No I do not. I just try to help where I can and hope to get other people involved in old Ford trucks too.

 

I'm cleaning up the hood I'll be using as a replacement and have three questions.

1) The hood spring is bent a little and I can't seem to bend it back plum. Would this work better under heat? Not worth the effort to straighten?

2) I cleaned all the rust off the underside of the hood, but it looks like there's some rust on the underside of the top panel. Has anyone ever separated the two panels? It looks like they're joined by adhesive and screws on the ends? I'd like to take care of any hidden rust.

3) Is it ok to use Rustoleum Auto Primer on the underside of the hood to stop the rust?




View from the bottom layer of the hood looking through to the underside of the top layer of the hood.

 

Quick update...

1) Still not sure about the front hood spring. Might just replace it.
2) Looks like it's a combination of spot welds and adhesive based on what I can see and have read here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13050597
3) While it might be ok to use that primer, I'm going to do an epoxy primer for the whole body in a little while and will just rely on that.

 

How difficult is it to install moulding/trim and mirrors where there previously were no holes to do so?
Is it just as simple as drilling a hole?
If so, how precise does the location need to be?
Any idea what diameter the hole should be?

Thanks!

 

Truck is finally home!





I was rolling it out of the garage to work on it in the driveway (in front of the minivan also parked in the driveway) and the brakes were barely working with both feet laid on the pedal... punched the parking brake and the cable was rusted enough that it snapped... managed to get the truck in gear to stop it before it rolled right into the minivan! So, at least now I know where to start working.

I don't have a belt tension gauge (Burroughs gauge) for replacing the parking brake - is there some other guideline I can use or do I need to drop the money for this tool?

Thanks!

 

You don't need any fancy tools.