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Neutral Safety Switch and reverse light switch is one piece. Located on the tranny where the shift linkage attaches. The wires go up to a plug located next to the fire wall, kind of center line.
Great, thanks. I’ll order one of those soon.
I got the topper off last night and the truck looks much better IMO. Does anyone know where I can find a booster for the truck? Everywhere I’ve searched they’re out of stock.
Thanks for that. I tried to place an order but they won’t ship to Colorado. I think I found it at Advance Auto but who knows. One of the comments calls it a 50-3703, which I think means it’s a Cardone reman unit for the D7TZ-2005-A. I’ll give it a shot and hope it fits. Here’s the same part from Summit.
Just did some more poking around under the hood/underneath the truck. Lots of loose wiring and dead-end connectors. Also some of the steering stuff is bent pretty good.
Is this the sway bar link? Both sides are bent pretty bad, this is the worse of the two. How dangerous is it to drive around like this until I order new ones?
Is this plate plate stock (passenger side)? Or is it some frame repair? It seems like the truck took a hit on the passenger front.
Just did some more poking around under the hood/underneath the truck. Lots of loose wiring and dead-end connectors. Also some of the steering stuff is bent pretty good.
Is this the sway bar link? Both sides are bent pretty bad, this is the worse of the two. How dangerous is it to drive around like this until I order new ones? Sway bars are not that important. You could remove it with no worries.
The gray connecter right side of the red heater hoses is the connecter for the NSS/reverse lights that goes to the side of your transmission. Someone just bypassed the NSS so they could start it. This is kind of dangerous because you can start the truck in any gear and you do not have reverse lights.
This blue thing is an aftermarket Jacobs ignition assist. It is crap and I would just remove it. A good place for it is in the trash. I had one a very long time ago and it was a waste of money.
Is this plate plate stock (passenger side)? Or is it some frame repair? It seems like the truck took a hit on the passenger front. There is a rubber mount the is supposed to be there to cushion the frame when the axle/I-beam hits it, this is factory. Again, nothing to worry about here. Replace it when you have the time and money.
This is the plug for your seat belt warning light. Nothing to worry about.
Trace those thick red wires. That is some PO bs. 9 times out of 10, you can just remove with no worries. People like to half a$$ stuff wonder why it doesn't work right. Chances are, it probably powers something aftermarket that is no longer installed.
Thanks so much! I’m glad nothing is too sketchy. If I remove the loop from the NSS/reverse light switch, will it no longer be bypassed and work correct? Or will I have to hunt down the wire from the trans?
Thanks so much! I’m glad nothing is too sketchy. If I remove the loop from the NSS/reverse light switch, will it no longer be bypassed and work correct? Or will I have to hunt down the wire from the trans?
If you remove that wire, it will not start or even turn over. A replacement NSS is about $40 to $50. I would recommend just getting one and be done with it. Remember, you can fix it right or fix it twice.
If you remove that wire, it will not start or even turn over. A replacement NSS is about $40 to $50. I would recommend just getting one and be done with it. Remember, you can fix it right or fix it twice.
Since it’s a manual it only has the reverse light switch, right? I was able to find the switch for the NP435 for about $10 but none of them include the wire.
Since it’s a manual it only has the reverse light switch, right? I was able to find the switch for the NP435 for about $10 but none of them include the wire.
Well, hopefully someone with a manual will chime in and clarify that one. I do not have enough experience with that one.
I now realize why the PO had the dash partially disassembled. I have a new cluster on the way and hopefully that fixed my speedo/lack of dash lights. The booster/mc will arrive in a few weeks. Once I get some jack stands I’ll try flushing the PS system and hopefully save $40 on a new pump. I can’t decide if I want to do clutch and throwout bearing or wait until after winter. I’ll keep this thing garages over winter so it won’t see too many miles between now and next year.
I got the new instrument cluster and it works great (bought from missquade01 on eBay). I'm still hunting around for some new (used) tires since the ones on the truck are about 20 years old.
The other night the taillights lost power but the brake lights still worked. At the same time, the right turn signal indicator stayed on and now is lit up whenever I turn on the lights. I crawled underneath the rear and I'm getting power to the connector for the rear harness. I think I have some "custom" wiring for the taillights that came undone when I was driving. I'll try chasing wires and see what works.
I also discovered why the driver floor was rusted out. This morning I noticed water coming in through the windshield seam. I'll have the windshield pulled and assess how bad the rot is in there. I'm going to reseal the seams and spray some rust inhibitor up there from the inside. I don't plan on dropping a ton of money into this truck (currently at $1000 minus registration) and my goal is to sell it at break even when I graduate in May.
This afternoon I dug into the taillight harness a bit. It was all hacked up due to someone installing trailer lights a long time ago. I resoldered some janky connections and now have it half up and running. My turn signals and brake lights work if I don't have the running lights or headlights on. However, if I pull the headlight switch, the running lights, brake lights, nor turn signals will come on. I'm getting power to the plug for the harness but for some reason I'm not getting power through the running light wire (brown wire). I read that this may be caused by a bad ground in the socket so I'll try and get some sandpaper in there along with a bit of dielectric grease.
Definitely seems like a symptom of bad grounds to me. I went through this with my 76 when I resurrected it years ago. In my case I had to replace sockets and a bit of wiring along with adding my own grounds to get it to work correctly.
09-20-2019, 05:34 PM
