Hey Subford,

Couple of follow on questions if you don't mind. First, since my EGR doesn't hold vacuum after I did that test - does that mean I need to replace it or can it be "cleaned"?

Additionally, your diagram shows three solenoids next to each other, but I'm only seeing two in my truck (D&E). Does that mean my truck is missing one or could it be that my truck was not outfitted from the factory? I'm assuming that the third one should be mounted on that exposed bolt to the right if I'm supposed to have one and that D = EVR solenoid, E = AIR-B, and the missing one should be the AIR-D?

Do I need to loop the AIR-B & AIR-D in if I don't put the Air Injection back in?

Thank you kindly!

S/F,

-Matt

 

Yes if the EGR valve does not hold a vacuum it has a hole in its diaphragm and the EGR Valve needs to be replaced.

What I am not seeing is the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid (EVR), it looks like it is missing.
It looks like the vacuum lines for it is at "C" in your photos above.

The diagram is for a 1995 4.9L but without your calibration code off the drivers post it may not be the right diagram.
OR the left solenoid may be the EGR solenoid and D maybe missing as I can not tell for sure.

An EGR solenoid:

/

 

Subford, you're the man! Thanks much. I'll get a new one ordered. I'll check my door calibration code after lunch and post it up. I think I *might* have the EVR on the left and one of the missing ones is one of the AIR solenoids...not certain though. I'll have to look up pictures of the others to see for sure. The one on the left does have that round cap as in your photo.

I'll order up a new EGR valve/gasket and hopefully that and the new vac lines will fix the atrocious fuel mileage I'm getting. I can't imagine I'm getting better than 8-9 mpg right now.

Oh, and if the AIR solenoids are missing should I just not plumb them into the vac system or are they needed for no codes as well?

Thanks again for everyone's assistance, y'all have really helped me get this truck back on the road.

 

The EGR solenoids have a round top and the AIRB & D have flat square tops.

Here is a photo of a 5.0L showing the solenoids.


/

 

If you don't restore the AIR system don't hook up the AIR solenoids to vacuum at all. Just plug them electronically. The PCM has no way to measure if they are open or closed, so they should not throw a code.

 

Hello all; my diverter valves and smog pump have been disconnected and capped off; next is the pump delete and an 87.5" belt, followed by the cat. So, after replacing all the bulbs in the cluster and replacing little parts, I snapped a video of the codes; I'm much more fluent with OBDII; can someone please translate to me what I have? Videos located at:

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ahhgci7C2SB4gadmLeKkyTcegUrPYQ


TY!!!

 

Hey Steve, I wish I could offer some better advice, but unfortunately I'm suffering from the same issues as you are it seems. That said. I suggest you purchase an OBD-1 reader. I got my Innova brand on Amazon for something like $22 - definitely worth having if you're trying to chase down a problem. It at least gives you a place to start!

Anywho, I took half a day today and ran down to a JY south of Dallas that had a '96 E150 Econoline van with the 4.9 with A/C...needless to say, I picked up some goodies.

Extra Solenoids and the Air-D that I'm missing - figured out where that hanging plug was supposed to go!



Smog Pump and lines - though it appears that I'm missing some other stuff, it's a start I supposed.



And a new alt/smog bracket to replace my broken one:



And, I know it doesn't make with the topic of this thread, but secretly it's my favorite find today; Saginaw steering pump & bracket:



So tonight I was able to:

A) Install Air-D solenoid
B) Replace the broken Alt/Smog Bracket
C) Install that wonderful Saginaw pump - man o man, what a difference. Completely plug and play, minus a slight tweaking of the van high pressure line. It steers so, so, sooooo much better.

Anyway, after I cleaned up I also realized that my box with the new vacuum lines came in today too. So tomorrow I'll replumb the vacuum lines and hopefully next week my new EGR and O2 sensor will come in. Fingers crossed that it will clear my CEL codes...actually, do I need to clear the codes? Or will it clear itself? More research...

 

You will need to clear the codes.

 

Fantastic, I'll do that. My steering box needs to be replaced too. I'll have a smog pump available once I pull it off.

 

Steve, I thought of one other thing that I highly suggest if you decide to go with the Innova brand OBD-1 reader ( )

This extension cord for the reader makes getting the codes from the truck so much easier. Otherwise you ma7 need another person to help you out ( )

 

As always, thank you Subford!

 

I watched the video I recorded, 23 and a 31. New TPS on order....the 31 I need to figure out to fake out.

 

@ Steverinaz - on a thread like this one it would be better for you to start your on thread so people don't get confused as to who and what we are trying to help.

On the code 31, there is no benefit to disabling the EGR. Just fix or restore that system and it will resolve the code.

 

Afternoon gentlemen!

Ok so I've been busy this weekend!

I about murdered myself getting the dang EGR valve out...in fact, I wasn't able to until I removed the passenger side inner fender and took the pipe off from the exhaust manifold. Someone previously cross-threaded the old EGR valve on. I actually just had to order a new one as if I try to re use it I'll just cross thread the new one. Total pain in the ****.

Anyway, I also tackled the vacuum system. I do believe I have the vacuum hoses re-routed properly for an "Air Delete style system", but would appreciate it if anyone more in the know would tell me if I have it right:



Thanks!

S/F,

-Matt

 

On the EVAP system - does VAC CAN = vacuum canister or charcoal canister? Two different things... You need the charcoal canister where you have VAC CAN. At the throttle body you 2 lines - just checking but you didn't plumb them to the large coolant fittings right?

On the EVR circuit you should have the Vacuum canister in the supply side between the manifold tree and the EVR. Vacuum signal varies as the engine RPM's change and the vacuum canister helps to provide constant vacuum to the solenoid.