Good grief. I knew the flywheel was going to be another issue. Here I thought I could just buy a Hays flywheel and some other 460 clutch kit and be good after I figured out the spacer plate issue. This is going to cost me a ton of money. How is it you can use the 390 fly? Because it's zero balance? it's a D1VE, so that means a zero balance flywheel, correct?

 

By the way, thank you guys for the information! I just compared a combo and I actually might save a couple bucks on the L&L kit. Is it of lesser quality do you think than say a Hays/McLeod combo? But those probably won't even fit in the bell!

 

wow that brings back memories - I made the post you referenced on 460Ford.

Never did do that swap - sold the truck to a buddy who turned it into a puller. I did some engine work for him on that FE and it was a class winner...really a nice and well sorted truck when he was done.

Anyway, an FE zero balance flywheel will work provided your BBF engine is zero balance. If there is a hatchet weight behind the crank pulley then it is externally balanced. If there is just a round spacer, it is internally balanced.

The main issue is on the early engines the crank was only drilled for the large pilot hole where as, say, post 71, (guessing) engines had two pilot hole options. So take a look at the back of your crank to see if there is 1 step or 2 steps. Large is 1.850 and small is 1.375 IIRC. (or apparently whatever a 302 pilot bearing OD is)

I am not sure that a 460 flywheel won't fit in a 351m/400 bellhousing - would need to do some checking.


What you need to do is measure with some straight edges between the bell face to end of input shaft, and factor in the depth of the crank pilot holes from the back of the engine block/bell spacer plate. (just think about how it all goes together and you will see what you need to measure)

That will tell you if it is a go or no-go.

 

Looking at the L&L stuff I see it's what...$600? Just say looking at rock auto for prices a new FE flywheel is like $75. A 11" diaphragm clutch kit is $1-200 depending what brand you get. Maybe I'm missing something but wouldn't that be the better buy for the avg build?

I'm a little unsure myself of what to use on my 79 that has a 400 in it. From what I gather the 12" clutch that I have now won't work.

 

L&L although pricey, seems to be high quality stuff. I believe most if not all USA made and custom at that. Check out their headers (which I haven't used). Super thick flanges etc. Great reviews. Once again all custom stuff. I have NO ties to them other than purchasing the flywheel/clutch kit. But I've certainly had my share of cheap Chinese s**t over the years. And their stuff was anything but. On a side note, I didn't use their swap motor mounts, I bought custom made perches from NorthCountrySpecialties that allowed using later factory mounts.

 

Thanks, I have ordered their clutch kit. The guy then kind of confused me as to what clutch fork to get and throwout bearing, etc. I believe I am going to have to get all of these parts as well, but I don't get if I get the linkage parts for a 400, since that's what the bell is, or 460? You guys know? I need all of that stuff apparently, 390 clutch stuff won't carry over.
Clutch fork, throwout bearing, bellhousing boot and pivot bearing?

BY the way, here's a sweet image of my bore process:

 

Your 400 clutch fork, Z-bar and bellhousing all will work fine. I would get new throwout bearing (same as one you have). That stuff all works with the L&L clutch/flywheel kit. They do have 2 different flywheels, depending on internal or external balance 460.

 

Back when I ordered mine, I did it online. No confusion.

 

Since you have that engine apart, if the crank does not have the second step recess (allowing use of smaller 302 pilot bearing) now would be the time to source a later crank that has it.

 

OP has a D1VE-6015-AB or A1B or A2B block casting number = internal balance.

External balance, the 460's block casting number: D9TE-6015-AB

 

Thank you for the information!

 

Bringing this back up, hope it's not too late. I found the best deal on the correct engine plate is from Bronco Graveyard. https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Mot...uctinfo/20700/

 

I know this is an old thread. And I never actually did the swap but have researched it and talked to guys who did it and find answers all over the place on that spacer. Some guys claim they used just one and everything was fine, others say they had to use 2 or three to get things right. Some just used a 460 starter and some say they had to use a 390 starter drive. What I do know is the 390 style flywheel does work on the 78 and earlier 460 but if you want to run a better clutch, use the later style 460 flywheel and have it zero balanced.

 

I did the swap:
11" diaphragm 390 clutch
New 390 184 tooth flywheel
302 pilot bushing
400 man trans spacer plate trimmed so 460 crank flange fit.
92-97 pmgr 460 man trans starter. (Did use my 400 starter first but it was tired otherwise
worked fine.)
So far no problems and didn't cost a fortune.

 

I am in the middle of this swap. Mating a 97 externally balanced 460 to a T-18. Using an early cast steel bellhousing. I have not been able to figure out all the different threads on what to do because there is such a difference between internally, and externally balanced. I know the L&L kit is bolt on, but I am going to try and find a cheaper alternative. I can find a flywheel and clutch for just over $200. That's a long way from the over $600 that the L&L kit costs.