Tailgate is right up against the trailer when connecting
#31
Yes a slider. I went from Reese to Pullrite, the ISR Hitch.
Reason was i put a transfer flow tank in the bed, and pullrite has the option to adjust forward or backwards the hitch position. The hitch head is almost center to the axle (forward). I use the same rail:frame mounts from Reese.
With my reese slider, my tail gate did not touch the fifth wheel, but I had to be straight!
Reason was i put a transfer flow tank in the bed, and pullrite has the option to adjust forward or backwards the hitch position. The hitch head is almost center to the axle (forward). I use the same rail:frame mounts from Reese.
With my reese slider, my tail gate did not touch the fifth wheel, but I had to be straight!
#33
I have plenty of room between my Fiver (Jayco) and the back of the truck when the tailgate is up or down. Now my brother has a 2011 Super-Cab with the 8' box and hauls a Cardinal fifth wheel and he has to open his tailgate, start backing in then close the tailgate before he can couple the hitch otherwise it will hit his Fiver. His front storage compartment is deeper than mine, but he looses the clearance between his truck and fifth wheel.
#34
ssunit1, thanks for the pictures. The 56016 kit puts the bed rails in front of the bed support rails. The 50026 kit that I used puts the bed rails bolts on each side of the support rails, moving my rails 3 1/2" farther back. If I were to put my Row A bolts into Row B bolt holes my bed rails would be in the same place as yours.
As you can see in the picture, my hitch center is behind where the turnover ball mount would be.
beasley714, sounds like your rails are in the same place as mine. do they cover the bed bolts?
I heard back from the guy at Reese and said that everything is where it is supposed to be and it's probably a combination of my trailer and slider. He suggested switching to the 56016 kit so my rails would move towards the back of the truck and give me some more room. I am going to try hooking up to my buddies 2015 Montana tonight and see if there is any difference.
As you can see in the picture, my hitch center is behind where the turnover ball mount would be.
beasley714, sounds like your rails are in the same place as mine. do they cover the bed bolts?
I heard back from the guy at Reese and said that everything is where it is supposed to be and it's probably a combination of my trailer and slider. He suggested switching to the 56016 kit so my rails would move towards the back of the truck and give me some more room. I am going to try hooking up to my buddies 2015 Montana tonight and see if there is any difference.
#35
#36
st,rodder2
Rails in bed.
From tailgate. Rear rail 32 1/4 ".
From Tail gate. Front rail. 54 3/16.
My pull rite hitch center point is dead center to axle.
Picture shows, full tank, hitch. 1/2" gap between the two.
Reese Quick brackets 50073 for 2011 Superduty and up.
Pullrite Hitch 2700, 16K.
(With the rubber mat under the hitch, etc it is a little harder to be precise on the measurement.)
Rails in bed.
From tailgate. Rear rail 32 1/4 ".
From Tail gate. Front rail. 54 3/16.
My pull rite hitch center point is dead center to axle.
Picture shows, full tank, hitch. 1/2" gap between the two.
Reese Quick brackets 50073 for 2011 Superduty and up.
Pullrite Hitch 2700, 16K.
(With the rubber mat under the hitch, etc it is a little harder to be precise on the measurement.)
#37
#38
Or a fifth wheel tail gate.
I, when I got my 13. Well, new truck you need a new hitch. At least that is what I told my wife. It worked! That is when I sold the Reese and got the pull rite. Noisy hitch, works well.
In all, I think your rails are in the correct position. It could be the pin box needs to be longer also. That is getting out of my league, do to weight, etc.
Maybe Steve, RV Tech could help you there.
Let us know what you decide to do.
I, when I got my 13. Well, new truck you need a new hitch. At least that is what I told my wife. It worked! That is when I sold the Reese and got the pull rite. Noisy hitch, works well.
In all, I think your rails are in the correct position. It could be the pin box needs to be longer also. That is getting out of my league, do to weight, etc.
Maybe Steve, RV Tech could help you there.
Let us know what you decide to do.
#39
Before spending any money, I would ask myself these questions.
1. Can I get hitched up without too much difficulty.
2. Can I turn without a problem?
3. Does my fiver follow me down the road without a problem.
4. Can I unhitch without too much difficulty.
If I could answer "yes" to all those questions, I would not change a thing.
My two cents,
Steve
1. Can I get hitched up without too much difficulty.
2. Can I turn without a problem?
3. Does my fiver follow me down the road without a problem.
4. Can I unhitch without too much difficulty.
If I could answer "yes" to all those questions, I would not change a thing.
My two cents,
Steve
#40
I'd never given this much thought until this thread came along, FWIW I can hitch up with my tailgate down as long as I'm dead straight with the trailer, when the jaws lock there is only 2 inches clearance to the front locker. Likewise the locker door opens without hitting the truck. I have a Reese 16k hitch on stock location bed rails, no slider in an 8ft bed, the pin box is what came from the factory, the only thing that I would like to change would be to have more steering lock as once past about 45° truck to trailer I have to shunt forward to get it straight but I guess you all have that problem!
#41
RV Tech,
1. Can I get hitched up without too much difficulty. As long as I am dead straight or slide the hitch back.
2. Can I turn without a problem? Only towed once so far and did not have any issues backing into my driveway.
3. Does my fiver follow me down the road without a problem. As far as I can tell it followed me home.
4. Can I unhitch without too much difficulty. Again it depends if I am dead straight or not. 1st time unhitching I was on a slight angle and the tailgate would not drop down with the cord hanging over the tailgate.
So I think I can answer yes to all question above as long I slide the hitch to be sure of items 1 & 2.
beasley714,
I'm thinking of going with a non-sliding hitch (which will move the kingpin forward ~2 1/2") and going with the Reese sidewinder pinbox. Need to investigate that one a little more before spending that kinda money. Hopefully I can get out once or twice more before I have to put the trailer to bed for the winter. It's starting to get colder here in the NE and I will have to winterize soon.
1. Can I get hitched up without too much difficulty. As long as I am dead straight or slide the hitch back.
2. Can I turn without a problem? Only towed once so far and did not have any issues backing into my driveway.
3. Does my fiver follow me down the road without a problem. As far as I can tell it followed me home.
4. Can I unhitch without too much difficulty. Again it depends if I am dead straight or not. 1st time unhitching I was on a slight angle and the tailgate would not drop down with the cord hanging over the tailgate.
So I think I can answer yes to all question above as long I slide the hitch to be sure of items 1 & 2.
beasley714,
I'm thinking of going with a non-sliding hitch (which will move the kingpin forward ~2 1/2") and going with the Reese sidewinder pinbox. Need to investigate that one a little more before spending that kinda money. Hopefully I can get out once or twice more before I have to put the trailer to bed for the winter. It's starting to get colder here in the NE and I will have to winterize soon.
#42
RV Tech,
1. Can I get hitched up without too much difficulty. As long as I am dead straight or slide the hitch back.
2. Can I turn without a problem? Only towed once so far and did not have any issues backing into my driveway.
3. Does my fiver follow me down the road without a problem. As far as I can tell it followed me home.
4. Can I unhitch without too much difficulty. Again it depends if I am dead straight or not. 1st time unhitching I was on a slight angle and the tailgate would not drop down with the cord hanging over the tailgate.
So I think I can answer yes to all question above as long I slide the hitch to be sure of items 1 & 2.
beasley714,
I'm thinking of going with a non-sliding hitch (which will move the kingpin forward ~2 1/2") and going with the Reese sidewinder pinbox. Need to investigate that one a little more before spending that kinda money. Hopefully I can get out once or twice more before I have to put the trailer to bed for the winter. It's starting to get colder here in the NE and I will have to winterize soon.
1. Can I get hitched up without too much difficulty. As long as I am dead straight or slide the hitch back.
2. Can I turn without a problem? Only towed once so far and did not have any issues backing into my driveway.
3. Does my fiver follow me down the road without a problem. As far as I can tell it followed me home.
4. Can I unhitch without too much difficulty. Again it depends if I am dead straight or not. 1st time unhitching I was on a slight angle and the tailgate would not drop down with the cord hanging over the tailgate.
So I think I can answer yes to all question above as long I slide the hitch to be sure of items 1 & 2.
beasley714,
I'm thinking of going with a non-sliding hitch (which will move the kingpin forward ~2 1/2") and going with the Reese sidewinder pinbox. Need to investigate that one a little more before spending that kinda money. Hopefully I can get out once or twice more before I have to put the trailer to bed for the winter. It's starting to get colder here in the NE and I will have to winterize soon.
Steve
#43
#44
Steve
#45