1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

External fuel pump

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  #136  
Old 07-13-2016, 08:47 AM
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Hi Vince - Here are my findings:

The pink wire is registering 13.91 volts.
The yellow wire VDC fluctuated wildly. That is odd because my gas gauge works fine.
The orange wire registered .11.
The Maroon wire registered .11.

The pin order from left to right is as follows:
1. Orange
2. Pink
3. Yellow
4. Maroon.
 
  #137  
Old 07-13-2016, 08:48 AM
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Going to look into this also...
 
  #138  
Old 07-13-2016, 08:55 AM
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The yellow sender wire is fluctuating wildly because your meter isn't averaging and the ICVR is functioning correctly.

Rather than trying to explain it again im going to suggest that you read Gary Lewis' thread on the subject.
 
  #139  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
Not sure what you talking about unless it is the SUN machine.
I'm borrowing a Monitor and Recorder from Bill Vose and sometimes use straight pins & alligator clips in place of a BOB, but the thing I'm referring to I saw in a dealership garage bay as a teenager and can't at all remember if it was a Rotunda or Sun or something else... the guy explained how he plugged stuff in here and there and the LEDs (and maybe some little meters kinda like the Recorder has) showed him what had continuity and what didn't. It was the same era of technology as these other things, exceedingly crude and brute-force simple but I thought it was cool at the time.
 
  #140  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
I have no idea. It just stopped running all of a sudden and then the truck ran perfectly. When the pump doesn't stop running, it chugs and pours out tons of smoke.
Steve (I think that's your name) can I show you how to use the forum stuff so your text is more clear to us the readers? Please?

When you come across a post written by somebody and you want to respond to something that was said there, click on the button the bottom-right of that post... a new reply window will appear, enter your text at the very bottom and don't delete anything that's already there. This way, when you post your reply, the original text will be at the start but contained in a gray box, this lets people know to exactly what you are replying.

When you answer people's questions but in brand-new posts that don't have any attribution to them, it can be confusing and hard to know who you are talking to and what you are addressing.

Thanks!
 
  #141  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:09 AM
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The tank Hanger:


/
 
  #142  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
There was also the Monitor, I have one but very seldom use it.

Do you also have a full set of overlays that go along with this thing? I have two and one is home-made, finding those things is difficult.
 
  #143  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:15 AM
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Corrections to be made here...

I found a disconnected wire that plugs in to a protruding prong that extends through the emergency break. I plugged it in. The results are as follows:

The check engine light remains on.
The Internal fuel pump wire shows the following changes:
Maroon wire (It's not black but maroon) shows a reading that fluctuates at 67._
The orange wire shows a reading that fluctuates at 67._.
The yellow wire and pink wire remains the same.


Originally Posted by sgauvry
Hi Vince - Here are my findings:

The pink wire is registering 13.91 volts.
The yellow wire VDC fluctuated wildly. That is odd because my gas gauge works fine.
The orange wire registered .11.
The Maroon wire registered .11.

The pin order from left to right is as follows:
1. Orange
2. Pink
3. Yellow
4. Maroon.
 
  #144  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:18 AM
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...by the way, the wire is red with a white stripe.


Originally Posted by sgauvry
Corrections to be made here...

I found a disconnected wire that plugs in to a protruding prong that extends through the emergency break. I plugged it in. The results are as follows:

The check engine light remains on.
The Internal fuel pump wire shows the following changes:
Maroon wire (It's not black but maroon) shows a reading that fluctuates at 67._
The orange wire shows a reading that fluctuates at 67._.
The yellow wire and pink wire remains the same.
 
  #145  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I'm referring to I saw in a dealership garage bay as a teenager and can't at all remember if it was a Rotunda or Sun or something else... the guy explained how he plugged stuff in here and there and the LEDs (and maybe some little meters kinda like the Recorder has) showed him what had continuity and what didn't. It was the same era of technology as these other things, exceedingly crude and brute-force simple but I thought it was cool at the time.
I know what you mean.
I was working at a GULF station back in 1965 and a salesman came by with a Marquette engine machine and it blew me away at the time. It seemed to do everything from engine balance tests to slicing bread.

 
  #146  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:34 AM
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Hi Vince -

Hi Vince - Here are my findings:

The pink wire is registering 13.91 volts.
The yellow wire VDC fluctuated wildly. That is odd because my gas gauge works fine.
The orange wire registered 67.
The Maroon wire registered 67.

The pin order from left to right is as follows:
1. Orange
2. Pink
3. Yellow
4. Maroon (not black) Could be it's very faded but looks maroon).

Found a disconnected wire that plugs into the emergency break system. Plugged it in. Thought the check engine light was staying on but it must be the emergency break light because when I lift on the break pedal the light goes out.

I cannot tell which light is which in the cluster because the labels are gone. I thought the check engine light was staying on after I connected the disconnected wire, but it must be the emergency break light. However, it is that light that always came on briefly when I started the engine.

Originally Posted by vjsimone
Do you have a 4 connector plug to your tank unit?

To be sure your meter is set up correctly (dc volts), measure your battery voltage (across Pos & Neg battery terminals), about 12vdc, about 14vdc with engine running.

So disconnect the connector, start your engine (Engine need to be running), measure dc voltage, about 20 Vdc range, positive meter lead to pink wire on the connector, negative meter connection to ground. You should read 10-14Vdc ?? (This is power for the motor)

It is handy to have alligator clips to attach to your meter leads, also its handy to have a black and red alligator clip lead set about 10' long (clips on each end), next time you are in your radio shack.

If you have a yellow wire at the connector you should have about 12 Vdc, with the negative test lead to ground? (This is power from the fuel gage)(ArdWrknTrk reports that the voltage may be as low as 5vdc) record your findings,

The other 2 wires/connectors are ground. But don't use them as your ground for those first two test. One of them is black and the other is ?? Orange?

While you are at it check the other two wires to see if there is any power, make a note if there is.

Test the two ground wires; (Turn your engine off) Scale Ohm's Rx100 or higher, test from each wire to Body ground, you should get full deflection of the needle. Connect between both ground wires and you should get a full deflection of the meter. If you read any resistance, make note of it.

Make a diagram, Pink wire to pin1, Yellow to pin 3, Black to pin ? Orange to pin ?

Do these checks and we will go from there. Can you hear the in-tank pump if it were running?
 
  #147  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
Thought the check engine light was staying on but it must be the emergency break light because when I lift on the break pedal the light goes out.
It must be something else as these things don't *have* a check-engine light, not until 1988 did that come about. Given the location, it sounds to me like it's the switch that illuminates the BRAKE light when the parking brake is set.
 
  #148  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
Do you also have a full set of overlays that go along with this thing? I have two and one is home-made, finding those things is difficult.
I have a few but not all.
With out looking I think I have these Monitor Overlays.
1, 3, 4, 7, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 21, 25, 31, 41, 45, 66, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76
 
  #149  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
I have a few but not all.
With out looking I think I have these Monitor Overlays.
1, 3, 4, 7, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 21, 25, 31, 41, 45, 66, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76
Oh, wow, those things are like GOLD!!! I will invite @85lebaront2 to this thread since they are his machines I am borrowing... do you think you could make photocopies of those things for us? Not sure how many Bill Vose has come up with (and I've had his machines for at least two years now) but it would be ideal if I could return them in better shape than I got them.
 
  #150  
Old 07-13-2016, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
I cannot tell which light is which in the cluster because the labels are gone. However it is that light that always came on briefly when I started the engine.
Originally Posted by ctubutis
It must be something else as these things don't *have* a check-engine light, not until 1988 did that come about. Given the location, it sounds to me like it's the switch that illuminates the BRAKE light when the parking brake is set.
If it's a light that came on with the key on prior to starting, perhaps it is the charge indicator?
 


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