We don't really have superduty rot up here unless the truck comes from the east. Pretty much all vehicles that are rusted out here now a days you can bet they came from out east.

 

I'm not trying to create a debate, I'm simply pointing out a possible cause. And no, Engineering classes do not teach you to be unconcerned. My experience (both school and 20 years of real world experience) has taught me to look at root cause analysis.

 

What engineering field do you work in? BTW, if you up load each picture as a jpeg or a mpeg. you should be able to post as many pictures as the site allows, Plenty of other users do it daily.

 

And again, you live in the rust belt.

 

Was in Automotive R&D Electrical/Mechanical/Design/Process engineering for Delco/Delphi, now doing the same for a medical device company.

 

Do yourself a favor and protect that investment. Get it Krown Rust Proofed NOW(not the other rust proofing method). Salve up/douche that truck down from new. Dam thing will drip for a week. Has to be reapplied annually to keep the 10 year rust through warranty valid. So far Im impressed. 3 salty winters and no new surface rust on chassis.

 

Well, there are only a couple of people on this earth I would wish bad luck upon. You were NOT one of them. However, It gives me some type of satisfaction when an engineer gets to experience another engineers idea of a good design that a 1st grader can see is fubar.
Sorry about your truck problem..

 

I have strong opinions about the salting programs in the Rust Belt. Such as the government in these heavily governed areas feel a need to protect the people at all costs. It is not the individuals responsibility to learn how to handle the conditions, it is the governments need to control the conditions. I am just getting done with brakes on my F250 which need to be done every 2-3 years due to rust on the rotors. Motorcraft, White Box, Raybestos all cannot build a rotor which will stand up to this climate. My last set was Formula BLue and after 30K miles the pads and most of the rotors were like new, not worn. The inside fronts, however, were scratched from the salt and sand winter bath. One had a pit over 1 sq inch by .125 deep which caused violent shuddering under braking. Cast iron failure but not uncommon to rotors here. I am tired of watching vehicles depreciate at 3 times the normal rate as they rust into the ground simply from being exposed to the multiple tons of salt the government feels it takes to make the community safe.

 

I know we don't get it as bad as the east out here in the west but my '11 sits in a heated shop all winter still the same. I figured that for what I could sell my '03 for would be worth about one winters damage to my '11. So I kept it as a 'winter beater' and I only paid 1/3 the sticker price on my '11, if I'd paid full pop I don't think I'd drive it at all. Lol.

 

I feel and agree with the pain. Stupid cannot be fixed and everyone wants to sue to cover up their stupidity, thus 10 tons of salt per citizen per winter. AND you and I pay to salt our trucks down! There are other ways of controlling ice. But the salt mines won’t have that nor the guys that get triple overtime to spread it around...job losses. All politics/economics. Moving to Phoenix is my solution. But not for a few more years yet. Then I can buy a tin can and drive it till I die. It’ll melt before it rots.

For as many times as we need to R&R rotors(and backers) we could afford Inconel 625 rotors, once, and be done with it. I cant wait to see how the new 250-350s (err I mean 150s) hold up. My bets they will turn to oxidized dust much faster.

 

I may not keep my '17 F350 as long as I have in the past but I still intend to pursue an active rust/corrosion preventative program. Done by someone else, not me. Retired and find everything takes twice as long as it used to.

As for heated garage: I built a large shop several years ago and started keeping my '01 inside so it would be dry and warm in the morning. Several others said it was not good and I soon realized that drying off and resalting every day was leading to more rust problems than if just left outside frozen at 10 degrees. But the weather does change and the brine unfreezes and turns to slush treatment. Trade every 3 years and let someone else have the rust problems, or move to Phoenix.

 

To clarify when I park my '11 in the shop for the winter it goes in spotless and only gets cleaner over the winter. Only steps out to be run a bit now and then, never driven on the road or salt.

I agree unless you have things on your truck that need to stay unfrozen I leave my winter vehicles out in the cold.

 

The sacrificial anode type rust preventers work well too. Marine type. They are expensive but so is replacing the truck. Google them.

 

I do live in the rust belt. But superduties rust out quicker than they should.
Like i said my two 2003 f150s had no rust issues. One had surface rust on the rear passenger door inside lip that i would touch up once a year. The other one was spotless.

I plan on fluid filming it a couple times a year...late spring and late fall. Ive already done it once.
My truck too stays in a garage. It is a work vehicle and thats how i use it. Just hoping it isnt all rusted out in 6 years.
I paying double payments on it so i can own it in less than 3 years.

 

Ah ok - I must have missed the part of the owners manual where it said my SD was not designed to be used where it rains or snows or they use salt on the roads. And the part where it says my warranty was voided the first time I put my snow plow on or a bale of hay in the bed. Damn fine print got me again, lol.

Salt on roads is a reality, a well known one. Design for it. Duh.