No start after fuel filter change
#17
It might run ok but if there is no water to prime it, won't pump anything.
It won't run that way long though, you're not doing it any favors running it dry.
I would be sure you are getting fuel to it first.
#18
Robert when you say you cycled the key, did you leave it on till the fuel pump quit running or did you just cut it on and off. Cycle takes 20-30 seconds per key turn. 3-4 key turns. Be careful you don't discharge your batteries. That leads to another whole mess of problems.
What about the fuel cut-off under the passenger seat. Did you check that?
What about the fuel cut-off under the passenger seat. Did you check that?
#19
Robert when you say you cycled the key, did you leave it on till the fuel pump quit running or did you just cut it on and off. Cycle takes 20-30 seconds per key turn. 3-4 key turns. Be careful you don't discharge your batteries. That leads to another whole mess of problems.
What about the fuel cut-off under the passenger seat. Did you check that?
What about the fuel cut-off under the passenger seat. Did you check that?
#20
If you almost ran it out of fuel, yes it probably picked up trash in tank. Before I dropped tank I would go back over filter change. Check WIF drain plug make sure "O" rings are in place. Check main fuel filter and make sure cap is not cracked, check "O" ring on cap that it is in place and not broke, mashed or twisted.
#22
#23
#25
I think Tideman makes an excellent point: go back over what you did before this started. Because it ran, but just not good below 1500rpm, prior to doing the fuel filters. Since it ran "good" at higher rpms (a problem possibly masked), your HFCM was putting up plenty of fuel just prior to doing the filters.
Take the lower filter out again, when you open the drain does it drain a good amount (like it did the first time)? Now, again what brand filter did you use? Inspect it for defects, make sure it gets snapped into the cap, make sure the o-ring is lubed and inspect it for damage. Get a mirror and flashlight and look inside the HFCM for signs of rust and crud.
If it wasn't a Motorcraft or Racor filter kit I'd go so far as replacing the filter. Take your time and make sure the cap seats completely and don't over tighten it. It will get harder to turn once the o-ring hits the case, so keep turning till the cap shoulder bottoms against the case.
I'd probably do my 1st prime with the upper bowl cap off and someone else at the key.
Let us know if there is anything else you might thought was insignificant to tell us. Do I have the events/symptoms correct?
Take the lower filter out again, when you open the drain does it drain a good amount (like it did the first time)? Now, again what brand filter did you use? Inspect it for defects, make sure it gets snapped into the cap, make sure the o-ring is lubed and inspect it for damage. Get a mirror and flashlight and look inside the HFCM for signs of rust and crud.
If it wasn't a Motorcraft or Racor filter kit I'd go so far as replacing the filter. Take your time and make sure the cap seats completely and don't over tighten it. It will get harder to turn once the o-ring hits the case, so keep turning till the cap shoulder bottoms against the case.
I'd probably do my 1st prime with the upper bowl cap off and someone else at the key.
Let us know if there is anything else you might thought was insignificant to tell us. Do I have the events/symptoms correct?
#26
I think Tideman makes an excellent point: go back over what you did before this started. Because it ran, but just not good below 1500rpm, prior to doing the fuel filters. Since it ran "good" at higher rpms (a problem possibly masked), your HFCM was putting up plenty of fuel just prior to doing the filters.
Take the lower filter out again, when you open the drain does it drain a good amount (like it did the first time)? Now, again what brand filter did you use? Inspect it for defects, make sure it gets snapped into the cap, make sure the o-ring is lubed and inspect it for damage. Get a mirror and flashlight and look inside the HFCM for signs of rust and crud.
If it wasn't a Motorcraft or Racor filter kit I'd go so far as replacing the filter. Take your time and make sure the cap seats completely and don't over tighten it. It will get harder to turn once the o-ring hits the case, so keep turning till the cap shoulder bottoms against the case.
I'd probably do my 1st prime with the upper bowl cap off and someone else at the key.
Let us know if there is anything else you might thought was insignificant to tell us. Do I have the events/symptoms correct?
Take the lower filter out again, when you open the drain does it drain a good amount (like it did the first time)? Now, again what brand filter did you use? Inspect it for defects, make sure it gets snapped into the cap, make sure the o-ring is lubed and inspect it for damage. Get a mirror and flashlight and look inside the HFCM for signs of rust and crud.
If it wasn't a Motorcraft or Racor filter kit I'd go so far as replacing the filter. Take your time and make sure the cap seats completely and don't over tighten it. It will get harder to turn once the o-ring hits the case, so keep turning till the cap shoulder bottoms against the case.
I'd probably do my 1st prime with the upper bowl cap off and someone else at the key.
Let us know if there is anything else you might thought was insignificant to tell us. Do I have the events/symptoms correct?
#27
#28
And you are getting bubbles in the upper fuel bowl, so the HFCM can't make air, it has to be pulling it in, it has to be something to do with the filter/cap/o-ring or installation.
I did some quick reading and it sounds like there is a valve in the HFCM housing that gets opened when a filter is properly installed, otherwise you get no fuel from the tank. There is also a flapper valve that prevents backflow into the tank, also in the HFCM.
Haven't taken one apart myself, but the first one sounds the most suspect. I read where folks have cross-threaded the cap and it allows air in...
So, what does extremely close inspection show you? (also in the HFCM)
I did some quick reading and it sounds like there is a valve in the HFCM housing that gets opened when a filter is properly installed, otherwise you get no fuel from the tank. There is also a flapper valve that prevents backflow into the tank, also in the HFCM.
Haven't taken one apart myself, but the first one sounds the most suspect. I read where folks have cross-threaded the cap and it allows air in...
So, what does extremely close inspection show you? (also in the HFCM)
#29
Well after another inspection of all parts I still did not see anything wrong. So I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump. While I had the lines off I figured that it would be worth a shot to hook up the air compressor and backblow the fuel lines back into the tank apparently there is no one way valve here as I heard the air bubling in the tank, with hopes of cleaning anything out of the way that may be blocking fuel from getting to the pump. After installation of the new pump I did a cycle with the key and the bowl open. Still lots of air. I cycled a second time and YES!!! The air bubbles stopped and we were pumping fuel again!! So I'm not sure if it was the backblow of the lines or the new pump but we are back to life. I want to thank you guys for all the help and ideas. Have a great day!