05 needs work

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Mar 8, 2016 | 06:25 PM

Jdpeters

Thread Starter

New User

Joined: Mar 2016

Posts: 8

Likes: 0

05 needs work

Just got a 2005 X 6.0, my first one. Got it for hauling people and a toy hauler. Did lots of research, this one has 157,000. EGR delete, oil cooler SCT tuner coolant filter, all done 3 years ago by previous owner. It drives great and very responsive with the SCT set on "street" which I think adds 80 more hp.

Here is what is happening now -- Noticed small oil leak, took it to shop. They said the oil cooler is leaking.
Decided to go ahead and replace oil cooler and get the intake soda blasted cause of all the build up, also clean up the turbo. Also doing the head gasket and studs with a valve job replacing all O Rings and gaskets. All is going to cost around 8,000. What are your thoughts on all this work. Fact is the oil leak needs fixed and the rest is preventative.
So should all this be do everything? Is there anything else I should do?
It has been well maintained and is very clean.
I'm hoping this X can last another 10 years.

Thanks,

John

Mar 8, 2016 | 07:08 PM

jetjockey99

Laughing Gas

Joined: Jan 2005

Posts: 1,142

Likes: 25

First I am a Master Certified light and heavy duty truck and car tech, now fortunately retired. Where is the oil cooler leaking? If it is a small leak then it could be the EOT sensor, a low cost and easy to replace item. If it is leaking around the cover gasket, I would make sure that the PO didn't replace it with a Dorman, they had/have some serious gasket issues that can cause other problems possibly serious. Unless I was having other problems like coolant puking or overheating I don't know if I would do the head gaskets now or not, there have been many scare stories on the 'net about shops working on 6.0 heads that don't really know what they are dealing with turning into major problems, I have seen more than a few at the very least do a lot of research into the machine shop before hand. One that I have personal knowledge of as to the quality of work is ucfmachineshop.com they are not cheap but they do top quality work. There are others just be careful.

Mar 8, 2016 | 08:00 PM

navistarnut

Postmaster

Joined: Aug 2015

Posts: 3,910

Likes: 18

From: NW IA

Welcome to the forum!

It's your money, however many folks here will tell you drive it the way it is. There are a lot of folks driving/towing things with a 6.0 that still have the TTY bolts. If there is not a problem then unless that money is burning a hole in your pocket just let her ride. Since yours is an 05, your might still have the early build with the weaker HPOP. Perhaps you would be money ahead to replace that now if you are looking for a PM measure. Just a thought. If it's the later build, then be sure it gets the updated STC fitting and stand pipes and dummy plugs.

It's very possible you will never need head gaskets.

Mar 8, 2016 | 08:03 PM

timmytoes

Senior User

Joined: Jul 2011

Posts: 424

Likes: 0

From: Central Arkansas

I would diagnose the source of the leak first and wait until there was a need to replace the head gaskets. Sounds like the PO had quite a bit of work done already. Are you sure it doesn't have studs already?

Mar 8, 2016 | 09:13 PM

m-chan68

Lead Driver

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 5,505

Likes: 256

From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetjockey99

Very well written response to the question by the OP. Only one minor correction would be regarding the source of the oil leak. I believe you mean the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH (single wire), not the EOT sensor that has a tendency to fail. I've replaced more than my share. In my experience, these have usually failed very shortly after an oil cooler replacement, so I usually quote a new one in with every oil cooler/EGR cooler I've done. As for the Dorman garbage? I've been reading LOTS of these failures of that gasket on the oil cooler, and from the photos of this, looks to be a VERY messy job to have to tackle, just because of using a substandard quality part during a previous repair. So if you decide to move forward with it, INSIST on using nothing else but a Ford oil cooler (part number 3C3Z-6A642-CA). As for shops doing the work. Remember this, cheaper isn't always better. As a matter of fact, I'll even go as far as saying the cheaper the quote, the higher the red flags get raised. Good luck.

Mar 9, 2016 | 09:16 AM

04superduty6.0

Senior User

Joined: Mar 2015

Posts: 156

Likes: 0

From: Spiro

I agree with timmytoes, find the source of the leak first, before committing to that much repair. How did they figure it was the oil cooler? I've read here that sometimes its just oil that's built up in the valley from oil changes that works its way to the back of the engine and starts to drip.

Mar 9, 2016 | 01:46 PM

OneCylinder

Senior User

Joined: Sep 2014

Posts: 337

Likes: 0

From: Jasper, Texas

If you're not having head gasket issues (oil in coolant, coolant in oil, white smoke, puking, etc.) or valve issues, I would not open up that engine. All the HPO "O" rings can be replaced with the heads on. Shoot for 300k miles then consider a valve job.