1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

94.5 runs rough, hard or no start when hot. Just bought AE.

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  #16  
Old 01-10-2016, 09:34 AM
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Thanks yall

I went ahead and ordered another EBP sensor and tube. I just read on here (the thread called "just got autoenginuity... now what?") that EBP, MAP, and barometric should read within 1/2 PSI of each other with KOEO. Mine was showing over 20-something PSI iirc. It was extremely sooty too.

I will definitely check the hole in the manifold to make sure its not clogged either when i replace the tube.

Plans for today are to clean the FPR screen and cartridge filter thingie, as well as check fuel filter and bowl for dark debris.

Oldbird1965, it does smooth out a little when i unplug the ICP sensor. it does not remedy the stumble 100%, but i can say it makes an audible difference. The ICP sensor is new. IPR values are a little high, but the truck died when i unplugged the IPR.

I have an IPR rebuild kit (the o-rings, tin nut, and sleeve) but was on the fence about whether i should rebuild mine or get a new one.



EDIT: In case anyone ever reading this thread needs the info, i got a p0603 KAM (keep alive memory) DTC before the codes were cleared. According to a thread i just found on powerstroke dot org, that code means nothing if you are running a tuner or a tuned ECU. My PCM was tuned by DP-Tuner to run the newer software that enables OBDII port on my 94.5, so i will proceed under the assumption that the code is nothing to worry about.
 
  #17  
Old 01-10-2016, 12:25 PM
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^^^^^ Actually, the P0603 will set just about any time you disconnect the batteries, or disconnect the PCM. You'd only have to be concerned about it if you know you've never disconnected the batteries or the PCM since the last time it was reset. That would indicate a power interruption for some other reason (fuse, etc).
 
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Old 01-10-2016, 08:27 PM
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It will die with the IPR unplugged. I understand your dilemma between replacing the O rings on the IPR or buy a new one. Most of the time if its very hard starting when hot its the O rings. But the IPR 'might' be sticking, they can be cleaned but not rebuilt.
 
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:38 PM
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thanks for the info. I have read that the coil part of the IPR may get weaker or go bad over time, just the electrical component i guess. Wouldnt that be evidenced by a higher than normal DC on autoenginuity? Thats the only thing in the back of my mind I'd like to rule out by purchasing another IPR. If my line of thinking with the AE readings is incorrect, please let me know and i'll order another IPR.

I did order another full set of injector o-rings just in case, as we will more than likely pull the 2 rearmost injectors and swap cylinders with them. That way we can see if the problem moves with it. (the engine didnt stumble nearly as badly when disconnecting the UVC pigtail from that port on the valve cover harness)

Have made a "to-do" list for tomorrow, just got my new EBP sensor and tube in the mail today. Will post up any updates, not much to speak of yet.
 
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Old 01-12-2016, 03:25 PM
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Ok, so i did a little work today. Replaced the EBP sensor and tube. My old tube was so rusty at the manifold end she wrang off because the nut was frozen to the tube.

EBP was now barometric with KOEO, a lot better than the constant high-20s i was seeing. It did go up and down as i was driving and watching the live data meters on AE. I unhooked the batteries during the install, and after the first test drive, the EBP trouble code was gone.

But it didnt fix my issue. Did a couple laps around the little loop road near my house, and shut her down/restarted in between. She didnt want to start after the first lap and sitting about 5min, but did start on the 2nd or 3rd try.

Then, while driving on the 3rd or 4th lap, i noticed that with even throttle input, it felt like it was surging just a tiny bit on the way up the RPMs. Then, sure enough, MIL and NO POWER. Limped it back home.

Went and got the laptop with AE, and started watching some sensors.


So here was the first attempt at cranking with AE connected. She didn't crank.








Got her started, and she was idling just a wee bit rough, but nothing like the stumbling that was occurring earlier.





This one was labeled "after restart slightly rough", pretty sure was taken at idle. That IPR duty cycle is looking a bit suspect, eh? Along with the ICP.





These were taken during the last drive when i felt the uneven acceleration, just before she threw a MIL. Under Load, probably 50-60% throttle.






And this was taken after the MIL illuminated, and had no power whatsoever.

















Looks like I need a new IPR. It pretty much "froze" at the 54% duty cycle you see in the later pics, with the low ICP (while driving, under load). Did that until MIL came on. Once the MIL came on, and i lost power at the same time, the IPR duty cycle started moving around again, and ICP was back up over a thousand.

So I just ordered another one from riffraff, and will throw her in the truck this weekend hopefully.



Im going to try and hook the phone into the laptop to throw up some pics of the EBP and tube install, as well as a pic of the truck itself.
 
  #21  
Old 01-12-2016, 03:42 PM
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Ok heres the pics from the phone.


New EBP tube, bottom.







New EBP tube, top.






Top end of EBP tube, didnt look completely clogged.






Old vs New EBPS.






Old tube was just a little rusty










And heres the old girl in all her glory. Or, what would be glory if she wuz runnin' right

Previous owner hit a deer, and they put a 97 front end on her. Thats why she has the "intercooled turbo diesel" badges on there.


 
  #22  
Old 01-12-2016, 04:33 PM
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IPR replacement would be where I'd go next too. Good luck, keep us informed.

I would get rid of those butt connectors and solder the connections before pulling any valve covers again too.
 
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Old 01-12-2016, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
IPR replacement would be where I'd go next too. Good luck, keep us informed.

I would get rid of those butt connectors and solder the connections before pulling any valve covers again too.

Will definitely keep yall up to date. I will be SO excited when i finally get this bugger fixed.

Also will solder the electrical connections too. That was on the "to-do" list, but i didnt get to it today. (is usually the case, lol)
 
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:21 PM
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What code(s) came up associated with the CE light coming on most recently?

The '97s weren't intercooled, BTW; that's just something someone slapped on those fenders. So you didn't have to paint the parts? Cool.
 
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:56 PM
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man, that was the last prtscrn i hit, just forgot to paste into paint.

im pretty positive it was p1211, ICP pressure code. And it had that other one about KAM error since i unplugged the batteries during the EBP fix.

and nah, dont think the parts were painted. 2 POs ago was the one that hit the deer, but i can tell a difference in the shades of white between the cab/fenders/doors/etc. So the intercooler only came on the superduties? I was thinking those were OEM badges, haha.
 
  #26  
Old 01-13-2016, 08:13 AM
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None of the OBS trucks had intercoolers. I owned a 97 F-Superduty and it did not have an intercooler.
 
  #27  
Old 01-13-2016, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
IPR replacement would be where I'd go next too. Good luck, keep us informed.

I would get rid of those butt connectors and solder the connections before pulling any valve covers again too.


Agreed with Darin. That IPR DC is off the chart while cranking. And I noticed that its high wile idling as well. You definatly have a HPO leak somewhere when hot.


Was just kinda browsing towards the end, but did you check the fuel filter to see if it was dark?


Also not sure if anyone mentioned this, but it takes 500PSI of ICP before the injectors will even fire.


The one that alarmed me the most was the one where DC was 54% and the ICP was only 300 some psi. You defiantly have a leak somewhere.
 
  #28  
Old 01-13-2016, 04:02 PM
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phone being screwy rightnow, sorry i cant reply below your quote.

i havent checked the FF for oring debris yet, but is on the to do list.

that onewith 54%DC and only 300psi HPO pressure was while driving, and she was being very sluggish. This was what setsthe MIL as faras i can tell. The reason i didnt instantly think HPO leak, was as soon as MIL came on, the DC went back down, and HPO pressure went WAY up to like 1800.

Leads me to believe sticking IPR. If it was HPO leak would the readings normalize like that?




Originally Posted by madMatador78
Agreed with Darin. That IPR DC is off the chart while cranking. And I noticed that its high wile idling as well. You definatly have a HPO leak somewhere when hot.


Was just kinda browsing towards the end, but did you check the fuel filter to see if it was dark?

Also not sure if anyone mentioned this, but it takes 500PSI of ICP before the injectors will even fire.


The one that alarmed me the most was the one where DC was 54% and the ICP was only 300 some psi. You defiantly have a leak somewhere.
 
  #29  
Old 01-27-2016, 01:54 PM
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ALLLLLLLLLRIGHT allright allright.

Got some work done yesterday. Replaced the IPR, which in my case involved removing the FPR outta the way. Also went ahead and did the donaldson air filter mod. 6637 i think its called.

I tried dieseltechron's method of using a swivel-head 1/2" ratched and a deep 1 1/8" socket. That didnt work. I couldnt even get the socket in there by itself, by a LONG shot. For any future readers, this is on a 94.5 and it is probably different on the later models. Matter of fact, it has to be different because i watched the youtube vid where he got the IPR out using that method. I bought a harbor freight 1/2 drive swivel head, and used a deepwell socket, unknown brand. I know ron used snap-on everything, so that may make a difference.

This job, all included, took me all day. There were LOTS of smoke breaks, lots of colorful language, and believe it or not-- lots of fun A competent mechanic could easily do this in a couple hours.

Drained HPOP reservoir first, and tried to get at the IPR with the ratchet setup. Did not work, decided to try the regular boxed-end wrench on it, as seen on patrickthebaptist youtube video. This worked, but i still had to take the FPR stuff outta the way.

Decided to inspect my fuel filter, as well as clean the cartridge on the FPR, as well as the little circular shaped screen.


so, i was unsure if this fuel filter was dark enough to warrant concerns about injector o-rings.

Anyone have any thoughts on that? its a napa fuel filter, but not sure if media is dark colored on purpose, or if its o-ring residue.

fuel filter:






screen inside FPR cartridge thingie:







Looking down inside filter bowl, for signs of o-ring residue or heater shorts, etc etc. Not sure what to make of this either.






Here's that little circular screen that sits between FPR and fuel bowl. Didnt look too bad.







This is the "before" shot of the airbox:






This is the 45 deg elbow, it is a 3" elbow. I saw conflicting info online, between using a 3", 3.5", or 4" elbow, so just wanted to say its DEFINITELY a 3" ID elbow, which has a 4" OD.






6637 mod complete:








........and HERE is your "oh crap!" moment of the day.

Anyone ever wonder what it looks like when you crank your powerstroke with the HPOP reservoir open? It looks like the beverly hillbillies struck some bubblin' crude. Thats what it looks like. I could see a black geyser from the gap between hood and firewall as soon as she cranked.

Heres the aftermath.







So i drove for about 20 min, and she ran fine so far. Cut her off between laps, 2 or 3 times total, and she restarted and idled just fine. None of the stumbling and stuttering while idling hot, as it did before IPR replacement.

I REALLY wish i had time to test her out a little more yesterday, but it got dark.
 
  #30  
Old 01-27-2016, 04:26 PM
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Sounds good man. I hope that ipr took care of you. Chits about the mess though!
 


Quick Reply: 94.5 runs rough, hard or no start when hot. Just bought AE.



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