come out? I guess I should just check the manual. If it does though, what is the trick to keeping it together so it doesn't fall apart? I know I read it somewhere.....

When you get the starter bolts unscrewed don't pull them out of the starter. Ease the starter out enough to put a couple of 1/4" nuts on the bolts and snug them up with your fingers. Then remove the starter.
Elmo

 

My engine is a V8. The flywheel may be different than a six, but more likely there are more than one style of S10 disc....which is why it worked for Brian and not for me. The one I have definitely would not work. I should have looked into this more.
The astro disc is from a 89-92 w/v6(14 spline) if i remember

 

When you get the starter bolts unscrewed don't pull them out of the starter. Ease the starter out enough to put a couple of 1/4" nuts on the bolts and snug them up with your fingers. Then remove the starter.
Elmo[/QUOTE]

Got it, thanks Elmo!

 

OK, that makes sense Tinman, thanks! I'll go through and figure out what year trans Bryan has. That will give me an idea as to what s10 disc might work. The thing that I don't like about using the s10 disc is that I would then have to buy another PP to fit (I think). I'd have to go smaller, so there is enough surface touching against my 11" PP, right? It sounds like that's the game you played until you settled on your current set up.

 

I used my stock 1948 pressure plate, and all the other clutch parts except the clutch disc that was in the truck, so no scabbing parts off a F2+ sized truck.

In my case the 1948 was as best I can tell all original, engine and trans, drivetrain, bed everything except the rear member on the bed (and he gave me the rear member beat up twisted and mangled to hell).

The transmission and clutch plate donor truck (Chevy S10) was a 1990, VIN 1GCCS143L2112660 (mileage was 119,131) when it was involved in a total collision - junkyard find.

The driveshaft (with the fancy slip spline yoke) was from a GMC S15 (I believe extend cab - the standard cab was too short shaft). My driveshaft shop wanted more for that yoke than to rebuild anything I brought em with that yoke, so I went back to the yad and scabbed that to get the front yoke.

I already had an electric speedo, so it was just reprogramming it - I did not do the full tail disassembly to convert to mechanical speedo.

And just to clarify the pictures in post #12 are of those 2 clutch plates lying on my STOCK 1948 (F1 sized) setup, I don't have any F2+ sized parts around... if I am gonna go big, I am going F7 / F8 big

 

So I was able to confirm today that both the 49 F2 with V8 and the 49 F1 with I6 had the same 11" clutch/PP/hogshead. Everything is the same until you get to the bellhousing (which is not a surprise to anyone). I was thinking maybe the F1 would have a 10" clutch, but not so much. That is leading me to the conclusion that the Astro 11" disc might be the ticket. I'll likely have to get the flywheel milled like Tinman did, but if I dropped to the 10" then I would still have to take the flywheel in to get the new holes drilled for the smaller PP. On top of that I would have to buy a new clutch and PP from something like the s10 since I don't have one laying around. Now the trick will be to find just the disc and not the whole kit as it seems most places are carrying now. I really wish that you had a better experience with the speedway disc Tinman. I have seen some 10.5 Jeep discs online with the 1" 14 spline, but have no idea if the springs etc would interfere with the flywheel. If anyone else has an idea please chime in.
Hopefully Dwight will be getting my money order today or tomorrow and can get my parts shipped out soon.
Here are a few shots of the clutches/PPs/flywheel:


F2 on top, F1 on bottom






Seems to be plenty of room for the shaft




That's a stubby screwdriver, and it fits almost all the way in

 

So I was able to confirm today that both the 49 F2 with V8 and the 49 F1 with I6 had the same 11" clutch/PP/hogshead. Everything is the same until you get to the bellhousing (which is not a surprise to anyone). I was thinking maybe the F1 would have a 10" clutch, but not so much. That is leading me to the conclusion that the Astro 11" disc might be the ticket. I'll likely have to get the flywheel milled like Tinman did, but if I dropped to the 10" then I would still have to take the flywheel in to get the new holes drilled for the smaller PP. On top of that I would have to buy a new clutch and PP from something like the s10 since I don't have one laying around. Now the trick will be to find just the disc and not the whole kit as it seems most places are carrying now. I really wish that you had a better experience with the speedway disc Tinman. I have seen some 10.5 Jeep discs online with the 1" 14 spline, but have no idea if the springs etc would interfere with the flywheel. If anyone else has an idea please chime in.
Hopefully Dwight will be getting my money order today or tomorrow and can get my parts shipped out soon.
Here are a few shots of the clutches/PPs/flywheel:


F2 on top, F1 on bottom






Seems to be plenty of room for the shaft




That's a stubby screwdriver, and it fits almost all the way in

 

Might just be the photo, but it sure looks like your flywheel has a larger opening for the recess than my V8 wheel. If so, that is a big plus. What does it measure across the opening?
See, my T5 experience is with a flat V8, which may not be exactly the same....so take it with a grain of salt.

I got the astro disc from Rock Auto....dunno if they still have any

 

Well I just went out to measure and it looks like that bushing in the center is 1 1/2" OD and 11/16" ID. Is that was is known as the pilot bushing? And Bryan, is that what the Amazon link was for, or was it for the one that goes in the throwout bearing? Sorry for my ignorance. I was just about to break out the manual, but I'll ask since I am writing anyway...... did you guys have that washer looking thing between the bolts/flywheel? See below:


Also, the bushing is sticking out about a 32nd on the tranny side, do I need to do the same if I replace that bushing? I assume the engine side of the clutch disc should not touch that bushing, am I correct? Thanks!



1 1/2" OD 11/16" ID ish!!!!! with a carpenter's tape.

 

Measure the opening of the depressed area that the crank bolts set down in. At the clutch surface. Should be 4-5 inches. It looks larger on your flywheel......if so, you may not have any clutch clearance issues.

EDIT....DUH, your pic has a tape measure laid across it. Looks like 4 9/16. Will check a V8 flywheel tomorrow to see if they are the same. I'm curious.

 

Bryan, is that what the Amazon link was for, or was it for the one that goes in the throwout bearing?


Dwight sent me the pilot bushing (the part that you press fit into the flywheel that the very tip of the trans idles in). That part needs to be able to spin (otherwise when you disengage the clutch it will still spin the trans and it will act as if you never pushed the clutch pedal), but can not be sloppy either. That part has a very big difference between OD and ID (lots of material). I had to mill out the one Dwight sent me as it was just too tight clearance.

The amazon link I posted earlier/sent pm is for the throwout bushing, a part you do not need if you buy the right throwout bearing instead. You need a throwout bearing with the same OD as all other ford stuff, same thickness, but a slightly smaller ID (the chevy side of things). That bushing I had to reduce the height of cause it was too tall/long. That bushing has a very similar OD and ID (not much material)

 

Thanks Bryan! I understand now. Great explanation of the bushings and what they need to do. I did order the one from Dwight and will check it once it's here.
Tinman, I think my opening in the flywheel is the same as yours. It measures around 4 3/4". I might be able to get into town tonight and check parts stores for a clutch disc. Once all my parts come in I will then take everything to a machine shop for fitment. Thanks again fellas.

 

So I got into town yesterday, but couldn't find anyone that had any of the clutch discs that would work in stock. I wanted to actually get my hands on a disc and mate it against my flywheel before I purchased it. Everyone wants to sell you a kit with PP/disc/bearing/etc. The only one I could have bought just the disc was from a mid 80s Camaro with the v6, but I would to had to order it and pay shipping. I think it measured 9 11/16". Since I want to use my new 11" PP that my flywheel is already drilled for I thought the 11" Asto Van disc would be best. Again, everyone wants to sell the kit, but like Tinman suggested they do have them on Rock Auto (disc only) part #BBD4212. I fully expect to have to have the flywheel milled, but it's either that or go with the 10" s10 disc and have to buy an all new 10" PP and have the new holes drilled to mount it to the flywheel.
Bryan: I do have a question for you. You said that if you had to do it again that you would get a throwout bearing that had the proper ID/OD to match the T5 shaft instead of adding the bushing that you posted above, but I can't wrap my pea brain around how that would work. The ID is determined by the hub assembly that the bearing is pressed into (please correct me if I'm wrong) isn't it? So the bushing would be pressed into the hub assembly. If you changed the ID of the actual bearing than you would have to get a different hub to match, correct? Is that the one previously mentioned from an older 3-speed?


The hub rides inside the bearing therefore the hub determines the ID (I believe)






**On a side note, just to clarify for those reading this later on, I think you meant to say 1 3/8 ID not 1 5/8 on post number 13. That number matches your link to the bushing and the one 51fordfan used as well. **

Also, did you guys order your thin head flywheel bolts on line? If so, do you have a part number or size? I ask because it's much easier and usually cheaper for an item like that to just order it rather than drive 30 miles one way at -20 degrees just to find out that no one in town carries them. Thanks felleas!

 

I know you guys are busy, but when you get a second can you riddle me something? I have the entire 4 speed that I yanked the hogshead off of, can I just use the bearing retainer off of that? I assume that's what you did Tinman, but you got it off a 3 speed. Here it what I'm taking about:


Original is sitting on top of the T5




Now it is slid over the T5 bearing retainer

I guess my new questions are:
- Do I just remove the original bearing retainer from the T5 and install my original from the 4 speed in it's place?


Tinaman, did you remove the T5 bearing retainer in order to get this one on, or is it behind?



- If so, would I need the adapter sleeve from Amazon or Motion?


Thanks for the help fellas!

 

My adapter is machined so it fits over the T5 bearing retainer, then the 3 speed retainer bolts to the front of that. No other bushings required.
The 4 speed retainer wouldn't work....the bolt holes are off just a bit.

BUT......I've been thinking about this......I'm not sure my adapter was made by Bond. I didn't buy it from him. Just assumed it was. His adapter may use different parts...
Maybe call him and ask? Or check with Brian? Seems he went a different route than me, and I believe he got his adapter from Bond.