A simple way to spcheck hot water flow is to pull the grey vacuum hose to the actuator under the hood. No vacuum means the valve will default open. Now run the truck to heat it up and you should slowly get water temp equivalent to the ECT over time. In colder temps with no winter front, you will see fluctuation in coolant temp, as the thermostat opens, it will pull cooler water from the radiator, then the temp will go down a bit until the engine heats up and opens up thermostat again. Check the water temp in the coolant line to the heater with a IR gun at the metal pipe. The closer to the ECT temp the better the pump is working. I think your issues are kind of unrelated. What is your percentage of coolant to water? Boil over if coolant not better than 40% antifreeze. 200 degree water at the sensor means somewhere it's hotter and at 212 it will boil with straight water. 22 degree air will cause the fluctuation in water temps because the thermostat is opening and closing off, as it pulls cold water from the rad. I think some other good things in this post to check, cracked tank, leaking down only, bad cap, all potential culprits. I also think a thorough check of the hose under the tank as a potential to leak down. Anyways, hope you have fun resolving this, and I hope it's simple!

 

This is the first thing that crossed my mind with all his symptoms.

 

Nope haven't started the work yet. This was basically out of the blue.
After sleeping on things last night I am leaning toward water pump (at the moment)

2006 F350 4X4

 

Where'd ya get that sweet IPR kit Bill???? Lol

Prob haven't gotten it yet tho huh???

 

It came today Ant, looks good,Thanks a bunch,I am going to look into the manifold for the coolant filter......have you used it yet?........Stereo came today too.........got video now!!!! Tell Juli I like the filters......we need to talk

 

Im hoping this snafu doesn't kill my delete plans--after being sick I'm a couple weeks behind now.

2006 F350 4X4

 

I think this has been talked about before but what is the best way to test flow. It looks like a PIA to get to so I want to make sure it's bad before I go pulling it.

2006 F350 4X4

 

The most accurate way is with a calibrated flow thru meter.
The problem is most people are not gonna have access to one.
I have one because I used to do a lot of hyraulics. It measures flow of any liquid and it really doesn't matter the input or output size because it is calibrated to the flow thru the orifice. The one I have is about 1 1/4 in. in dia
6 in long and tapped for 3/4 NPT but can be adapted to any size. Rated for 10,000 PSI and 300 GPM. A bit more than you would need but is calibrated for as little a 5 GPM. up to 300 GPM.

About $300 tho from ww grainger used to have them. Mine is 20 years old or better so they last. Made out of lexan.

 

I did a set of head gaskets on a car, and to confirm the theory is, I just ran the car with the degas cap off, and smelled in side the bottle, there was bubbles, and exhaust fumes. But I am not sure if this would work on the 6.0.

 

Yeah you can due thd bubble test in degas to check for egr cooler or hg but I'm looking at water pump. I'm not overheating, egr is dry, no smoke. I did look today and when it puked I lost more than I thought. Refilled took a drive to temp and all was well except it seemed the heat cooled a tad when at idle. I checked for leaks at the degas bottle and couldn't find any.

2006 F350 4X4

 

Subscribed,

Gonna follow this one with you David.

I also have a coolant issue. I am leaking coolant somewhere in the front. I can't see it leak when it's warmed up and running and it doesn't leak if relieve all the pressure after I park it. Going from 200 deg down to 10 deg seems to be taking it's toll on it.

I was also thinking possibly water pump but really not sure.

.

 

One more thing,

If you need to remove the radiator, which I believe you do to change the water pump, you will need the special tool for the trans cooler lines.


Thanks goes to Rusty

.

 

Yeah I need to get one of those. Watched part of a utube vid and don't think you have to pull the rad although it would make it easier. Worst one I've done was on a 99 2 door sporty type Cadillac. I still have the scares lol

2006 F350 4X4

 

Ok--trip to work this morning--stopped at a station just up the road before I was at normal temp to check the coolant before I got on the interstate--had foaming and puke (which I had expected due to I purposely over filled a tad and still have the cap that is now bad) I did notice the heat wasn't blowing as warm when I got back in. For the record I'm not concerned with the heater as that is not needed for the engine to run Got on the interstate and all was normal 200 ect 205 eot all the way to work. Got out at work and checked--no puke once at proper level and the metal heater hose pipe was HOT--could only touch it for a few seconds so I'm suspecting now my water pump is good? I do need to check the egr again to see if it's wet. Oh my concentration of coolant is a tad higher than 50/50.

 

just an FYI keep your receipts on the degas cap from ford--I was just told they even have a 2 year warranty on them now. Just picked one up so will grab my receipt from the previous one and get my money back on it.