Just got back from a 11 day trip out west in the 96 E150
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Just got back from a 11 day trip out west in the 96 E150
Got to say I'm happy with the results of the work I did last year to the engine. This consisted of a GT40 head swap, 1.7 Cobra roller rockers, coated shorty headers, new full 3" exhaust.. Fuel mileage pulling my custom built "kitchen trailer" that weighs in at around 700 lbs varied from 11 mpg (uphill from Aztec N.Mex to Ridgway Co. ) to 17.25 (downhill from Leadville Co. 10,200 ft to Costilla N.Mex at 8800 ft.) wth averages in the mountains in between those at 15-16 mpg. Running up and back across Texas averaged at 12-12.5 mpg running at 75 mph. This is an Explorer high top conversion van with a roller 351, E4OD trans and 3.55 rear. We camped out using the bed in the back of the van, when not staying in motels. I had pulled the middle captains chairs out (left at the house) as we don't need them (just the wife and me) The trailer is one I built to tow behind my 06 GT Stang a few years back. It's based on a jet ski trailer frame, with a diamond plate box (6 ft long, 16" sides, 3.5 ft wide) I added a top to it this past winter with three fold over counter tops that open up. Inside was my giant Igloo cooler, canopy, butane bottle, gas grille (off my camper) portable toilet and a few other items. The gas grille mounts to the tailgate. The trailer is shod with 15 x 10 aluminum slots (that match the van's wheels) and 265/50/15 tires, frame is painted to match the van. This is the second cross country trip in the van now, we've put about 10,000 miles on it now since we bought it this time last year, 9,000 since the engine work. Still debating on whether to build a stroker short block for it to improve the bottom end torque. Not sure if the computer will handle the extra cubes without work, but they sure would be handy in towing our camper trailer if we go back out there with the grandkids.
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Try this, see if it helps at all: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...he-forums.html
Shouldn't be any issues since you've been here more than long enough to have photo posting privileges.
Shouldn't be any issues since you've been here more than long enough to have photo posting privileges.
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Yea, that's too much hassle for me to waste my time on. Especially when most sites let you post pics straight off your computer. Seems I recall to do that here, FTE wants you to pay for that. OK, fine, but I'm not going to pay extra AND be subjected to the barrage of paid advertisements here too.
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Yea, that's too much hassle for me to waste my time on. Especially when most sites let you post pics straight off your computer. Seems I recall to do that here, FTE wants you to pay for that. OK, fine, but I'm not going to pay extra AND be subjected to the barrage of paid advertisements here too.
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These are the same part number headers as listed for a 96 F150. They fit fine. I did add a self fab'd heat shielding to the passenger side, not really sure it needed it though. No sound difference in the cabin, no heat buildup either. I fab'd a full 3" single exhaust all the way out the rear, including a new high flow 3" cat, this dumps into a Dynomax Super turbo (29" L x 9" diam.) and used a Magnaflow mandrel bent 3" Stainless tailpipe (again, listed as for an F150 I only had to shorten it a few inches to fit the van's chassis ). I reused the factory 2.5" Upper Y pipe sections to retain the O2 bungs, these are welded to 2.5" straights into a Magnaflow fabb'd Y pipe connector. I plumbed in a 3-1/2" header collector (w/O2 bung)to mate the Y pipe to the 3" straight section that leads to the muffler. The whole system is capped with a chromed 3-1/2" angle cut tip at the passenger side rear corner of the van. Very quiet system with just a hint of sound at cruising speeds. I used Summit's house brand copper header gaskets to mate the headers with the heads. After the initial torqueing, they have not shrunk whatsoever, I checked them once after a trip to California and the bolts were as tight as they were when I torqued them. On my 96 I did have to replace the EGR pipe up to the EGR valve as it twisted in two when I tried to remove it, I coated the new part's threads with antisieze to insure this doesn't happen again. Mine's got the two fragile sensor tubes in it, this part ain't cheap ($150 as I recall)