180 out... use the tab welded to the steering link to keep clamp on u bolts to stay in one place.

Axle u bolts right beside the leaf spring pack.

 

Thanks Rich. I am going to do the swap today.

On anither quedtion. I had two-post lift (10,000 lb) installed in my garage yesterday and want to lift my F250, but I'm not sure where to lift it from. It seems like the first clear spot on the frame is pretty far back. Any suggestions?

 

I would look for the flattest/even (to each other) areas of the frame to put the arms.

Just behind the front leaf spring rear shackle pivot area and just in front of where the rear leaf spring front shackle attaches.

 

Passenger side
Driver side

 

Thanks Rich. That's just what I did.

Now that I can see under the truck better, it looks like there are leaks between the transmission and transfer case. The gasket is all torn. I just replaced that when I put them back in. What's the best way to stop this? Another gasket with silicone sealer this time? Any tips on sliding this back without having to drop it to the floor?

I wiped away the leak but the gasket is all torn here and there was gear oil dripping out
Same with this side

 

Stabilizer is angled


Has to be rotated up to clear diff cover
Rich
i tried mocking up the steering stabilizer install 180 degree swap, using your first photo with the dual stabilizers. The stabilizer is too long to use the welded tab as a stop. I would have to put the u-bolts in front of the diff, and at an angle so they clear when the tie rod moves.

Looking at your second truck, the stabilizer bolts into the the same place as the shock I have the hole there, however I thing I would need a stabilizer that had one male and one female end. My stabilizer has to mail ends

 

Stabilizer is angled


Has to be rotated up to clear diff cover
Rich
i tried mocking up the steering stabilizer install 180 degree swap, using your first photo with the dual stabilizers. The stabilizer is too long to use the welded tab as a stop. I would have to put the u-bolts in front of the diff, and at an angle so they clear when the tie rod moves.

Looking at your second truck, the stabilizer bolts into the the same place as the shock I have the hole there, however I thing I would need a stabilizer that had one male and one female end. My stabilizer has to mail ends

 

I think I got the stabilizer in. I ground down the axle bracket so it would fit between the axle perch and the shock absorber.

 

The one on the bottom is shorter and I don't know if you can see there is a thread beneath it from the trans
I remove these by hand
The four studs that connect the transfer case to the back of the trans were loose. As in, I was able to remove them BY HAND! No wrench! Is there a correct way to put these in so the stud is tight? Should I try putting two nuts on them so I could tighten them into the trans?

unfortunately it looks like a thread came out of the one on the bottom when I took it out

 

And while we're at it can anyone tell me what this wire goes to?

 

so the lower stud won't hold. It's obviously stripped. How could I possibly helicoil that (it's 1/2 x 13, not even sure they make a helicoil that big) without removing the transfer case?. Could I use JB-Weld, or something like that to secure the stud?

 

I think you will have drop th TC out to repair that. And there are helicoils large enough.

 

OK. What I did in the interim was I replaced the stud, which uses 1/2 x 13 to go into the tranny case, and then 1/2 x 20 for the nut, with a 1" bolt (1/2 x 13). I was able to grab threads deeper in the tranny case, and was able to tighten the bolt. I am planning on pulling the motor later this summer (looking to do either a short-block swap or replace the 351W with a 460), so I will have the TC and transmission out then.

 

This weekend's project is to get the carpet in the cab. I have some leftover FatMat that I can put down. Would you put this everywhere on the floor or just key areas, and what would those key areas be?

 

Here is the ACC carpet I bought. The FatMat is behind it.