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Installing Electronically Controlled Fuel Tank Selector Valve 1988 Ford F150
I recently had to replace my fuel tank selector valve and it was very challenging due to the fact that there is almost no info online on how to do this and the wiring diagram that comes with the tank selector valve is hard to read and has some incorrect instructions. I was able to track down the needed info and diagrams to do the swap from a pressure controlled selector valve which is facotry stock and the electronic valve autozone sells. Its best to get the valve with the pigtail and switch included. My truck required the 6 port valve with the 213 harness. Below is the diagram and image that I found that saved my *** as well as a link to the page i got it off of.
Heres the wiring diagram
This is a picture of the valve harness socket and which wires go where
All the wires you need to splice into are right there on the frame near where the valve is just seperate the wire for the front tank from the ones to the back tank to make it easier to wire it all together. the only wire that is not in the harness on the frame is the Yellow white wire that is gonna be in the dash
on the harness for the selector switch. you will need to run a new wire from the switch on the dash to the harness on the frame for the yellow white wire. you will also need to run a 12v power source from the inertia switch as shown in the diagram above.
As for the fuel supply and return lines I added see through fuel filters before the tank valve on the supply lines and had to replace the old nylon quick release lines with the rubber fuel injection hose from autozone. you will need 3/8 supply and 5/16 return lines and get like 20 ft of each to ensure you have enough to do everything correctly.
SOME OF THIS INFO COULD BE WRONG BUT I DID THIS AND MY 1988 FORD F150 5.0 IS RUNNING FINE NOW ON BOTH TANKS I ALSO REPLACED EVERYTHING ELSE ON MY FUEL SYSTEM TO BE THOROUGH
The big problem with doing this mod is that you are doing away with the fuel reservoir for the high pressure pump. All 85-97 FI Ford truck use a fuel reservoir.
Without the fuel reservoir you can have engine surging an lack of power on hills an under high acceleration. This is why Ford put the fuel reservoir in all of these trucks and vans to eliminate this problem as stated by the FORD shop manual.
Is it possible to add a resivoir? maybe a filter canister without a filter between the valve and high pressure pump? Im on extremely limited funds or i woulda just bought a factory valve and been done with it
Originally Posted by subford
The big problem with doing this mod is that you are doing away with the fuel reservoir for the high pressure pump. All 85-97 FI Ford truck use a fuel reservoir.
Without the fuel reservoir you can have engine surging an lack of power on hills an under high acceleration. This is why Ford put the fuel reservoir in all of these trucks and vans to eliminate this problem as stated by the FORD shop manual.
I recently had to replace my fuel tank selector valve and it was very challenging due to the fact that there is almost no info online on how to do this and the wiring diagram that comes with the tank selector valve is hard to read and has some incorrect instructions. I was able to track down the needed info and diagrams to do the swap from a pressure controlled selector valve which is facotry stock and the electronic valve autozone sells. Its best to get the valve with the pigtail and switch included. My truck required the 6 port valve with the 213 harness. Below is the diagram and image that I found that saved my *** as well as a link to the page i got it off of.
Heres the wiring diagram
This is a picture of the valve harness socket and which wires go where
All the wires you need to splice into are right there on the frame near where the valve is just seperate the wire for the front tank from the ones to the back tank to make it easier to wire it all together. the only wire that is not in the harness on the frame is the Yellow white wire that is gonna be in the dash
on the harness for the selector switch. you will need to run a new wire from the switch on the dash to the harness on the frame for the yellow white wire. you will also need to run a 12v power source from the inertia switch as shown in the diagram above.
As for the fuel supply and return lines I added see through fuel filters before the tank valve on the supply lines and had to replace the old nylon quick release lines with the rubber fuel injection hose from autozone. you will need 3/8 supply and 5/16 return lines and get like 20 ft of each to ensure you have enough to do everything correctly.
SOME OF THIS INFO COULD BE WRONG BUT I DID THIS AND MY 1988 FORD F150 5.0 IS RUNNING FINE NOW ON BOTH TANKS I ALSO REPLACED EVERYTHING ELSE ON MY FUEL SYSTEM TO BE THOROUGH
i am am really having a hard time getting this valve to work. First off I went ahead and got the 87 and later model valve as the 86 and before with the reservoir was a hard find and expensive. My problems are in three folds.
1- I am unable to figure out how and where to connect the 12v wire to or from the inertia switch based on the diagram and note from Matthew.
2- When I checked the voltage on the two yellow wires going to inertia switch with the ignition on or off, it did not have any power.
3- I see notes and comments from folks that I will lose power as the revervoir is missing in the later model valve, I am unclear what alternative can be added to resume the loss of power. Secondly, why are we going to lose power when there is a lift pump in the tank and an in line high pressure fuel pump? Isn’t that sufficient to get enough fuel to th carb or fuel injection. Logically the reservoir doesn’t make sense.
I have been filling up my tank every 150 miles on a road trip from Colorado to GA and it sucks. I would like to keep the dual tank system and make it work. Any help or solution will be great.
06-20-2014, 04:39 AM
