Once again, you are correct.

So just take the white wire directly to the ignition then and another one from the same point on the ignition to the + side of coil. And as you mentioned before take the wire from the big terminal on the alt to the circuit breaker.

My alternator is just a 63 amp for now.

 

Would something like this work instead of the fuseable link? I'd like something that is easy to replace and carry around. I assume the wire (in this case) would match the wire gauge of the wire it's attached to? If so which amp fuse should I use? Is it based off the amps of the alternator?

 

They sell fusible links that are just like that, a cartridge essentially. A fusible link won't blow instantly like a fuse, it won't respond to spikes as quickly as a fuse. Plus in this case with a 65 amp alternator, and I presume #8 or #10 wire?, you want something rated for the capacity of the wire. A relatively short #10 like this will carry almost 100 amps for short periods without damage. I don't know of any automotive fuses in that range.

If you are confident you have good connections. good wire with good insulation, and a safe routing, you can forego the link. Be sure to protect everything downstream of it (which your circuit breakers will do).

 

Fuseable link it is then. The red wire from the back of the alternator is 10 gauge, so this 12 gauge is what I'm shooting for then? I've never used it before, so if there's a problem what does it do? Break/melt/smoke? I assume you just solder it together like any other connection? Thanks,

 

I couldn't find the cartridge style you mentioned, but if you could upload a picture I'm sure I could find one. If not, no biggy. Thanks,

 

A fusible link will work fine. However if you are on a trip and have a short that blows the link, even if you fix the problem you still have no charging unless you can locate and replace the link. I use circuit breakers for the alternator, main power supply and electric fans. I use marine breakers as I have access to them, but any quality breaker would work.



285-Series Circuit Breaker - Surface Mount 70A - Blue Sea Systems

 

A fusible link melts inside but the sheathing is designed to contain any open flash. It is less susceptible to power surges. Sometimes it is hard to see if they have blown but usually there is some mark or distortion of the sheath. I always check them with a continuity tester. I have always crimped mine in place as I don't think that you are supposed to solder them.

 

Lots of choices guys, thanks! But I feel like when I used to go to Blockbuster and look at all the movies. Half the time I'd leave without one because there are to many to choose from.... Thanks a ton for your inputs, and I'll be posting some photos of my current wiring configuration for any/everyone to giggle check before I hook a battery up. I'm still waiting on my spark plug wires to arrive anyway (wish they would have mentioned that they were back ordered when I purchased them!) And of course I'll need the fuse too. Hopefully Napa has something. Couple of questions:

- Rimrock; did/would you use the 70A breaker for your alternator?
- Which is the main power source that could use one as well?

Thanks again to all of you.

 

Well, here's what I have for wiring. Please giggle check what I have and tell me what you think. I haven't put any power to it, nor will I until someone else thinks it's good.
DISLCAIMER: You will not be held responsible if I screwed up! I believe in the America where people take responsibility for their own mistakes. So please give me honest feedback,and don't think I'll blame you if I burn my garage down. Thanks again fells,and have a great night.

 

Looks OK except what is going on at the coil? It appears you have both the IGN power feed and the wire to the points connected to the same terminal? And what is the black wire?

 

Ross- Yes I have both the IGN power feed and the electronic IGN hooked to the + side of the coil. The directions for the electronic ignition said to take the hot and put it on the + coil post. Any thoughts?

 

I assume the black wire is also from the electronic ignnition module? If so you are correct. Yes I installed one breaker for my alternator and a second one for all power to the car (dash, radio, lights,horn, etc). these are shown in the photo, pushing the red button trips the breaker, good anti theft and doing so disconnects all power so I can work on electrical without worrying about live circuits. I have another breaker for the electric fans that is an auto reset type (after it cools it will turn back on automatically).

 

Wow, Belle Pepper sure is a beaut! And yes, the black on the - side of the coil is from the electronic ignition.
Those breakers are nice! There is a place in Anchorage called Polar Wire that sells them too. They carry a lot of high quality electrical components. When I get to rewiring Old George I'll be using some of their products.
Thanks for the help!

 

Thank you. Actually that is a photo or Orreo. Bell gets done this fall.

 

That makes more sense. I thought maybe you did some pretty extensive front end work or something. Either way it looks like nice work.

I got everything hooked up this morning (except the in line fuse) and put power to it.


SO much brighter!




So far so good


No smoke or smell of old wire on fire, so that's good so far. When I get my new plug wires and fuses I'll try to give it a crank and see what happens. Until then I'll finish installing the fuel lines so he's ready to go.

Thanks again for everyone's help, and I'll keep you guys posted.