I knew this was coming...302 oil pan clearance
#1
I knew this was coming...302 oil pan clearance
So before starting to build the 302 I acquired out of a 94 F150, I decided to test fit it and go ahead install the transmission crossmember. I thought due to the shape of the oil pan I might get lucky with it clearing the steering...no luck. You can see in the pictures how close it is and how much further down it needs to sit to bolt to the motor mount (the other side is already bolted hence the tilt).
So what options as far as oil pans do I have? Are there ones out there with a shorter front area? I know a couple of people have made spacers for the mounts which I may end up having to do. Thanks, Matt.
So what options as far as oil pans do I have? Are there ones out there with a shorter front area? I know a couple of people have made spacers for the mounts which I may end up having to do. Thanks, Matt.
#2
If it were me I would mod the mounts before messing with another oil pan, pickup tube, etc. I could mod the mounts for less than $10 in scrap steel. Cut the mounts off the frame and bolt them to the engine. Block up the engine so it is where you want it height wise (good exhaust clearance, steering clearance, etc. Block up the trans so the engine crank shaft angle is 3 degrees down. Make cardboard templates of the pieces needed to extend the mounts to the frame. Copy them in steel, weld in, and done.
OR just weld in a spacer on the mount that is bolted to the engine and leave the frame mounts welded as is. I would still block up the engine 3 degrees down and make the spacers angled to match. There is a lot of height in the engine compartment, no need for the engine to be super low.
OR just weld in a spacer on the mount that is bolted to the engine and leave the frame mounts welded as is. I would still block up the engine 3 degrees down and make the spacers angled to match. There is a lot of height in the engine compartment, no need for the engine to be super low.
#4
To the original poster, I put a spacer in that gap. I didn't like it, but I did it. The makers of these MII IFS systems need to address this problem and quit telling their customers that a manual rack will fit while a power rack won't. The truth is that, quite often (I didn't say always), neither will work with a 302 without that modification. And you can look until the cows come home for a different oil pan, but the bottom line is the front sump will be there in some form or fashion as long as that oil pump is up there.
#6
Looks like I opened my mouth before I knew what I was talking about. I failed to read the ENTIRE post... I'm not using an IFS, I'm using the stock front suspension. After reading the whole thread, I would have to agree with modifying the motor mounts and transmission mounts. It's much easier and safer to change the placement of the engine and trans than it is to modify the IFS.
I used the same procedure that drptop described to install my 302 and AOD. After wasting a month buying and returning 3 different engine and trans cross members i just built my own for less than half the price.
I used the same procedure that drptop described to install my 302 and AOD. After wasting a month buying and returning 3 different engine and trans cross members i just built my own for less than half the price.
#7
Thanks for the replies. I agree adding a spacer is the quickest fix I'm just thinking since the motor is getting refreshed anyway, if there is an oil pan that will work, I would like to find it.
As far as the IFS, I'm using the chassis engineering bolt-in setup. I agree, this issue should be addressed at the manufacturing level.
As far as the IFS, I'm using the chassis engineering bolt-in setup. I agree, this issue should be addressed at the manufacturing level.
Trending Topics
#8
From what I can see in the pics, you're pretty much done as long as long as your engine is in that position. The double hump Fox pan has a shallower center area so to make it work, the engine will have to move forward to straddle the crossmember/steering rack. The oil pump is right inside the front of the pan, so a different pan with the engine sitting in that same spot won't gain you anything.
#9
From what I can see in the pics, you're pretty much done as long as long as your engine is in that position. The double hump Fox pan has a shallower center area so to make it work, the engine will have to move forward to straddle the crossmember/steering rack. The oil pump is right inside the front of the pan, so a different pan with the engine sitting in that same spot won't gain you anything.
#10
There's really no way to move the engine forward on that crossmember without fabbing some type of new mount with a huge cantilever that probably won't work. I have the same IFS as him. It has to go up. The entire engine would have to move forward 5 or 6 inchee to make it straddle the middle of a fox body oil pan.
#11
He's using a Chassis Engineering bolt-in MII IFS with the supplied engine mount brackets. If I am wrong, show me how you centered the center of that oil pan over the steering rack without either moving the rack and crossmember backwards or the engine forward. What IFS are you using? There is an exact spot on the frame where that C.E. crossmember goes, and the steering rack has to follow.
#13
I didn't suggest that he center his pan. I was replying to 52 Merc's mention of it and explained what drastic changes would have to be made in order to center the pan. It can't be done with the C.E. MII crossmember, and I'd imagine pretty much any of the other MII crossmembers either. A Volare and that particular MII setup are very different.
#14
#15
I had the same issue, in fact everyone that had used this crossmember will, but I was determined to run power steering as it's the girlfriends truck. Taking the advice that you have received thus far I had some spacers made up to lift the engine (used stacked washers to verify good height before final spacer was made). When I set the cab in place I now had clearance issues with the driver side head touching the cab, and the t5 transmission bellhousing had maybe a quarter inch clearance from the cab. I then had a new passenger side engine mount plate made locating the rear hole for the biscuit mount one in further back. This allowed me to move the whole engine/transmission an inch forward, resolving those clearance issues with the cab.
Before new passenger side mount plate.
After new passenger side engine mount plate.
And new plate(black) with the old (grey).
Couple other things to mention thus far is it looks like I'll have to run the radiator support in the six cylinder location, and the t5 fits just fine below the stock height Trans cover. Most likely going to have to have custom headers made to fit. Hope this helps.
Before new passenger side mount plate.
After new passenger side engine mount plate.
And new plate(black) with the old (grey).
Couple other things to mention thus far is it looks like I'll have to run the radiator support in the six cylinder location, and the t5 fits just fine below the stock height Trans cover. Most likely going to have to have custom headers made to fit. Hope this helps.