That might work.

 

sorry , no . But , I ran 2 strands of wire for trailer wiring through the firewall at an existing grommet . Cut the main wire to the coil and interupted it with a small push pull switch from Oreilly's . I mounted the switch in a hole that was in the e brake bracket .I wrapped my new wires in some used wire loom out of a junk car .So it looks factory , as the rest of my wiring does . The switch being black , like the bracket , and it's small button size make it almost impossible to see ! You have to "know " where it is to start my truck !

 

Good one Remindes me of a guy I use to work with , he just removed his coil wire and stuffed it in his pocket !

 

Very nice, that's the kind of sneakyness i'm going for.

 

Don't forget that unless the bypass switch is in the harness between where the coil's power comes off and the ignition module just jumpering from the solenoid to the coil will bypass the kill switch. If you let a thief under the hood on these trucks it won't take him long to have it running - unless you kill the fuel somehow.

 

I did my bypass close to the module , but , I shall look at my procedure again . I do think I did it correctly , but , worth a second look ! It has been a few years ...

 

Sounds like the way to disable the ignition is to put the kill switch on the coil tach wire between the coil and DS box.

Wonder where I heard that before?

Of course cutting off the fuel works too, but unless you disable the ignition it will start with the fuel left in the carb and it might even make it to the middle of the road before it stalls.

In the army some of the cargo trucks were secured with a logging chain padlocked to the steering wheel and bolted to the floor.

 

you might look into a micro lock set up push the brakes hit a button your brakes lock up hit the button again and they unlock

 

Bumping this story up because now it's going to be time for me to install this on my truck.

Gary Lewis, do you know of a good battery cut-off where someone could break into the truck, pop the hood, and try to jump the solenoid, but not have any power going to it?

I'd like to cut power off to anything but the clock radio and dome light, that way if a thief hops in, they'll think, "ha-ha, it has a good battery, all I need to do now is jump the solenoid and i'll be parting this thing out before dark!" but then, ruh roh...no power other than the dome light is turning on.

I'd like to not mess with my fuel pump wiring switcher as much as possible, I just got done going through that rat's nest because the PO decided it would be a wise idea to incorrectly splice wires for his brake lights that would then short out the fuel switching solenoid.

So in a nutshell, i'd like to mount a kill switch to keep power going to just the clock/radio and dome light. Nothing to the solenoid, nothing to the fuel pumps, nothing to anything else.

What do you think?

 

That's a tall order. There are continuous-duty solenoids and I think there's a link to a Cole-Hersee floating around here. But you will have to hide it some place electrically between the battery and the starter solenoid. That part is doable. The part that would be a bear is getting power to just the dome light and clock/radio. That would be hard to do as everything is hooked together. Very hard to do.

My plan is to put an electric hood lock on it, along with a security system. But you could just do the hood lock and a hidden switch for it. And, maybe a hidden switch for the ignition.

 

I was thinking something of this nature would be sweet, but maybe a little overkill for a 28 year old truck:

 

disable the mounted dash solenoid, and re-route the power to an alternate solenoid

setup alarms

install a fuel pump disable switch

have 3-4 switches in the cab so that a certain combination must be used, 3 on 1 off

have fun and get creative!

electric choke can be disabled if you want also with a simple relay

 

SVT- Sorry for the delayed response, but I finally got to watch that video and I think that's cool but NOT something I would want. We have the start button on the Murano and when we were buying the GLK we said NO!

So, if you really want to secure the truck I would look at a low-end security system with a key fob. Use the security system to control the fuel pump relay and the start solenoid, so the thieves may jumper the start solenoid and the truck may crank but won't start or at least won't continue to run. And the security system can be put under the dash pad where it isn't visible nor easily accessed, but where it is easy to wire into.

 

maby you could try routing thru the cig lighter so that when the lighter is in place the circuit is complete. pull the lighter you get nothing

 

put a post it note saying this truck get gets 8 mi to the gallon !
and its on "e"