over 100 miles later...



Thoughts? should I just go for the rebuild, now?

Luci is to aptly named....

 

Yep!

 

We've seen that before. Hey Joe! Does this look familiar? Like AX said, you're heading for a rebuild. It will have to be machined with an oversize valve seat.

 

I'd bet that just like Joe's engine, there is so much mud in the cooling passages that the deck expanded more than normal, and the seat came out. A boil-out is long overdue! The radiator too.

If you disassemble it yourself, hang the block front end - down, pressure wash thru the deck holes, then take a long 1/8" rod and poke down at the bottom of the cooling passages to break loose all the caked mud and rust.

You could probably get by without a complete rebuild, the engine doesn't appear to have a huge ridge on the cylinders. Do you know the compression readings?

 

That would be great if I don't have to, unfortunately, I don't know the compression readings. I can say it's been driving great the 2-3 days previous. Guess she threw a tantrum (and valve seat) because she didn't want to go to the car show Sunday..

It looks like some valves have been replaced before (no oval on some of them) I'll remove it, break it down to the block and rotating assembly/valve train and have someone with a better understanding take a look.

In the mean time, my plan for the 351W has just become 2 weeks late.

I wonder if I can safely rig up to where I can switch a flatty and a 351W in and out, reasonably..

 

Not in a day, or a weekend, or even a month, I'd wager. You can't adapt a 351 to the stock trannies/clutch linkage, or use the stock motor mounts, radiator, etc etc...

If you pull the valve, clean up the seat recess, you can likely freeze the seat and stick it back in, stake it in place. But unless you seriously clean the cooling system, it's likely to re-occur. That's honestly about as muddy as I've seen. Someone was using creek water in it...

 

My exact words when I flushed it the first time. I've had it for 2 months and have flushed it twice to get as much as that as possible

 

It really needs to be acid-dipped, IMO. My rebuilder does two runs thru the "dishwasher" (caustic spray booth), pressure washes, then runs it thru the acid bath. Clean as a whistle.

 

Thanks much for the input. I've the heads off and realize the valves only say ford on the intake..

Yeah, I new swappable engines/trannys was a pipe dream but I know I'm going to miss the sound of the flathead.

I'll look for a good engine shop locally and get it to them. I may as well have it checked for cracks while it's out. Hmm, I did see a Merc crank the other day..

 

No need to miss the sound of a flathead. Just spend a little time. I advise
taking all valves out yourself before having that valve seat done and that
cost money if a shop does it. By the looks of things valve assemblys
aint going to come out with the valve bar remover. You will have to get
the keepers out and muscle the springs out and bang the lifters down,
using a deep 3/4 socket. We are going thru this right now and it took a
full 8hrs to bang them all out. Then clean the deck good, and if all looks
good there is a strong chance buying a new seat and frezzing it and tap
in with a brass hammer. I figure somewhere around $300 if you do it
your self a new seat, 8 new exhaust valves adj lifters and gaskets.
We are the cheapest around at $50hr so this customer is in $400 just to
get the valves out and we have not even started machining yet. New
vavles / seats are cheap but adjustable lifters are sky high.?? Here is
a model t we the machined seats for and bored it to .060
im just sayin == to save you bucks sam

 

Remember, Ross, this flathead is pulling a C4 so that could simplify the swap. Still not quick, cheap or easy to install the 351.

 

Thanks Ray, I did miss that. But it still would be a pretty involved swap.

 

Yeti, the Ford oval was not usually on all 16 valves.

 

Only on intakes.